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Trailer Help 101 Needed

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tnplicky View Drop Down
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    Posted: July-28-2007 at 2:59pm
Shredded a trailer tire last night on the way home. Bent up the fender a little bit and trashed a trailer side light, but I got that under control.

My question... since I have the rims off getting new tires (both sides just to be safe), I wanted to check the hubs and brakes to make sure everything else is in good operational condition. I haven't done any trailer maintence other than re-grease the hubs using the front zerk fittings (see center of hub assembly in first picture) at the end of each season. I have had the boat/trailer for ~3 years, not sure what maintenance previous owner did. 1995 Nautique trailer with DICO drum brakes.

What should I be looking for??? How do I get the hubs off? How do I check to make sure the DICO brakes work? (I have no idea if they are functional or not.) What is the zerk fitting on the back side for (second picture)?

Any help would be appreciated. Hope to get back out tomorrow - any extensive work may have to wait 'till another day.





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-28-2007 at 3:08pm
tnplicky, The absolute easiest way is find you a small incline,ie parking lot or drive way,and attempt to back up it from a dead stop.If indeed the surge brakes are working you will feel the resistance.But the key to s/brakes is the brake shoe adjustment.
The drums should just barely slide on over the shoes.If you don't have to "play with them"to get the drum on they are toooooo loooose.This will affect your braking force..........boat dr

when the drum is seated and the cotter pin in, roll the assy. you should have a slight drag and hear the shoes against the drum.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tnplicky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-28-2007 at 3:52pm
Boat Dr-

Thanks for the information!

I haven't been able to figure out how to get the drums off - never messed with this before.

There is an adjustment wheel on the back plate that allows adjustment of the pads on the drum. The instructions say to rotate the hub forward by hand an to tighten the brakes to the point they can't be rotated by hand anymore, then loosen 10 clicks, or cogs, on the adjustment wheel. But the brakes still rub at on the drum at this point. I would think the hubs should just barely rotate freely when adjusted correctly !?!?! If they rub, doesn't that cause friction, heat and accelerated wear?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 69 Mustang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-28-2007 at 5:03pm
The fitting on the back, pic 2, looks like a brake fluid bleeder. To get the drum off you may need to give it a few whacks with a 3 lb hammer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-28-2007 at 5:41pm
tnp, The drums are held on with the wheel and the lug nuts and 69 is correct that sometimes they need to be knocked off with a hammer. Spray some penetrating around the studs. The fitting that looks like a zurk on the back plate is the bleeder


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tnplicky View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tnplicky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-28-2007 at 6:28pm
Dr, 69, Brainard - Thanks for the advice. I'll give it a shot. Just picked up the new tires & rims, so if I can't get the hubs off fairly quickly, it'll have to wait 'till next time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jdkenyon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-28-2007 at 8:17pm
I was thinking you will need to take out the bearings to remove the hub. That's how mine is. This would be a good time to repack your hubs while you have it in pieces.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 87BFN owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-28-2007 at 8:44pm
The lug nuts do not hold the drum on, the nut behind the bearing buddy holds the whole assembly together. Only on cars do the lugs nuts hold the drum on. Be carefull to pay attention to what order things come off and what direction they came out. That way there will be no questions on what way it goes back together.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tnplicky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-28-2007 at 8:49pm
Referring to the first picture I posted, I don't know how to get the hub assembly off. I tried beating it with a rubber mallet, but I probably gave up to quickly. I did get out the grease gun and filled the hub up with new grease using the zerk shown in the center of the hub assembly and called it good. Next time I have the wheels off I do want to figure out how to get the hub off, either via more beating or some other proven method. Any success stories are appreciated.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-28-2007 at 9:11pm
Remove cap,cotterpin,nut and the washer.Wiggle hub assy. and the outer bearing will fall out.Place all this on a clean rag out of harms way.
Now pull and turn with an outward pull and the drum assy. should pull right off.Femove inner seal and this will expose the bearing,carefully remove this.
With some type of solvent clean up the inner and outer races of old grease,this means CLEAN.
Inspect the races carefully, if they are bright and shiny with no pits or scoring leave them be.
Go to the trailer supply or auto parts store and buy your new bearings and seals.Ask for name brand bearings, if they have chearys or chinese go to another store.
Lube the bearing well ,pack the Void between with ample grease, insert inner bearing and drive in seal.
Alighn your drum over the shoes and slide assy. onto the spindle,push in more grease.Insert outer bearing w/ washersnug up the nut and roll the drum.
There should be no in and out or slack in the drum.If the shoes are adjusted correctly you will hear a slight drag.
If not adjust the brake shoes outward,The notched wheel at the bottom of the shoes.Turn it one way they move out , the other way moves them inward.
Install a new cotter key and your done.Took me longer to type this than to do it..........Guess thats why they call me the BOAT DR>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-28-2007 at 9:47pm
Yea man! You are the Boat Dr.! and not to hijack a thread, but i saw a good place to blow a little sunshine your way.   :)   I should've called when you invited me to(appogy) but you have really helped me!

you would get the tongue/master cylinder assy from...?

Thanx
1988 BFN-sold



"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO
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