Starting 87 SN Floor/Stinger Repair

Skibum, I've rolled many wood boats over to do bottoms. You will find it ALLOT easyier to not have to work upside down. Rolling it over on old tires and movers pads with lots of help is the cheapest and simplest. Farmers way is the safest but requires lots of rigging. Do you have enough room to roll it over?

David,

I have switched to using tracer and 220 to knock down the orange peel. I will be careful with the 220. I had an inside corner where I ended up sanding away all the new gel. I think it will be easy enough (compared to gelcote on the entire boat) to repair.

As far as the color goes I am using white as the primary hull color with navy blue on the stripe. When grinding the gelcote off the stern I noticed CC applied the navy first then the silver/grey color second. I don't know if Ill go that route because the white won't hide the blue very well if it gets thin.

Unfortunately, I cannot put those young boys to work for my own personal gain. Otherwise, I would never cut 3.5 acres of gra$$ again while I am stationed at Knox.

I can pull the boat out of the garage to roll it over. I thought about rigging a post at the bow, then using the engine crane and a harness to raise the stern.

I also considered simply lifting the stern with the crane and working from stern to bow...when finished, lower the stern and lift the bow in the same fashion.

I just really don't know how I am going to approach it just yet. I have a few more things to do inside the boat before I must decide.

I appreciate the advice. Thank you.

SkiBum wrote: Unfortunately, I cannot put those young boys to work for my own personal gain. Otherwise, I would never cut 3.5 acres of gra$$ again while I am stationed at Knox.

Well, they could just do it out of the kindness of their hearts for their old pal the Sarge. Seriously though. The empty boat is probably 1400lbs. 10 guys should be able to lift it easily, but you probably want a few more because it's bulky and you don't want it dropped. BKH

SkiBum wrote: David, As far as the color goes I am using white as the primary hull color with navy blue on the stripe. When grinding the gelcote off the stern I noticed CC applied the navy first then the silver/grey color second. I don't know if Ill go that route because the white won't hide the blue very well if it gets thin.

Yes, my boat was the same way. The blue accent color was underneath the silve cloud (white). I imagine CC masks off the accent colors directly on the mold. Then they spray the predominant color on the mold, remove the masks and then spray the accent colors right over the top of the primary color. Hence, you have two or three layers of colors. During my repairs, I sanded (grind) through first silver cloud, then electric blue, then black. This was on the side of the hull where all three colors were present, the bottom of the hull only had silver cloud.

I suggest you mask off the line between each color and apply one at a time. Otherwise, you will end up with build-up at the overlap that you will surely sand through trying to flatten coplanar. Pinstriping usually hides the color change line as the line is almost impossible to make perfect.

Here is a shot of the inside of the boat. I applied gelcote to this area just inside the gunwale. It is sanded with 220 and 400 at this point. I did not apply over the top or side because I plan to flip the boat and that will just get damaged.

The picture below is the boat minus the windshield. I took it out in one piece. I am preparing to flip the boat.

boy you need to clean the lens of your camera, notice all the spots in the picture.

looking good, I would gel the base it'll last longer and look better I think.

When I flipped over my boat I was fortunate enough to have an overhead crane. I picked it up and looped 4" straps around the boat. Then we lifted it by the straps and friend and I were able to rotate it as the straps just slid in the crane hooks. Then it just sat down on the trailer perfectly. I realize if I was trying to do it at home it wouldn't be that easy.

Bill, I do not know where you are but if there are any boat yards in your area You might borrow some boat stands and simply raise the hull off the trailer several inches at four points. They are safe if done correctly.

Bill:

The boat stands are a good way to go as it gets the trailer out of the way. I am a$$uming your boat is still on the trailer. I made my own stands and can send you a picture if you like. The boat was amazing stable on the stands and did not move at all even when climbing in and out of the boat and working inside. I put the boat high enough so that I could lay on my creeper and reach up comfortably to work on the bottom of hull. Your arms WILL get tired. Let me know if you want a picture (too much trouble to post pictures here).

David F wrote: The boat stands are a good way to go as it gets the trailer out of the way. I am a$$uming your boat is still on the trailer. I made my own stands and can send you a picture if you like. Let me know if you want a picture (too much trouble to post pictures here).

Here you go:

You know now that I think about it bit more, the height of the boat on the stands was dictated by the being able to pull the trailer out from under boat. Turned out to be a good working height. You have to have enough room to manuever the grinder safely when working over your chest and face. Notice the blue tint to the driveway...that is the remnants from grinding off the blue gelcoat. When the project was completed, the entire driveway needed a good pressure washing. Bill, I cannot image doing this work in the garage. How in the world are you going to clean that garage

Wait till summer to do the paint job? In the mean time, build a lift to pull the boat by the rings so that you can just work on the boat raised in the air.

I have waited years to do this project. I got myself far behind screwing with that damn bilge. But, I am determined to fight through and finish. I will build some stands. David, I know what you are talking about with the tired arms. While working under the boat my arms were screaming at me to stop. I have to sweep out the garage, let the dust settle for a while, then sweep again every day but I don't mind.

I have a few acres and the neighbors don't have a clue what is happening in the garage. It is really not a big deal. After sanding I sweep everything up, dump it into a garbage bag, and let the dust settle again. Then wash any surfaces I am working. My neighbor to the west has two go carts that his kids ride around the cul-de-sac and nobody cares.

There is talk about flipping a boat. I have had my boat at a fiberglass shop all winter he had no trouble flipping it. Check there tool out at www.capsizer.com He also does some awesome work at a reasonable price.