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Starting 87 SN Floor/Stinger Repair

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote copcraft Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-11-2007 at 8:32pm
Brian

I had the same deal when I took out the stringer. There was about 1/4" of resin the length of both sides of the old stringer. My new stringer was probably not as tight and form fitting as it should have been. I grinded quite a bit of the old fiberglass out, but still had a "groove" where the old stringer was. I poured a bead of resin in the groove, placed the new stringer in, then epoxyed a 4" strip of 7 1/2oz cloth (2" up the side and 2" on the floor) on the downhill side of the stringer. When that was dry the next day I sanded, cleaned w/acetone and then poured epoxy into the voids on the uphill side. I then did the 4" cloth on the uphill side. I then started going from the floor up the side, over the top, down the side, and onto the floor. I staggered the width on the floor with every layer. I now have about five coats like that on the stringer.
     I don't know if it's right or not, but it seems pretty strong. Good Luck.

David
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-12-2007 at 4:55am
anything is stronger then what it was, remember you were probably running the boat or the previous owner was running it with rotted stringers for who knows how many years
"the things you own will start to own you"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote copcraft Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-12-2007 at 3:42pm
Eric

That is exactly what I kept telling myself when I was talking myself out of putting more layers on. Our phone conversation also made sense regarding the lack of strength in a rotten stringer. Like you said, anything ne would be stronger.

David
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SkiBum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2007 at 5:53pm
Find out soon enough. I too pondered how many layers of glass and resin were needed. Turns out you probably just need to properly seat the stringer with two layers of epoxy mat and resin. Then fill the gaps with epoxy resin and West 404 filler. Follow that with three layers of epoxy and glass in 2", 4", and 8" widths. Use epoxy and 404 to build a bead extending 1/2" above and below the joint. Strong enough.
Bill
http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks
www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkhallpass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2007 at 9:35pm
I have a lot of respect for you Bill, doing this day in and day out for almost 3 months now. I spent about two hours grinding tonight, and it's tough work - particularly for a guy like me who spends his days in a suit behind a desk. Hands, back and arms are spent.

I'm enjoying it, but can't imagine putting in the hours you have in such a short period of time.

Keep the pics coming. Your thread is one of my main reference guides. BKH
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Yak3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2007 at 3:22pm
I'm taking a break cause I don't want to rush it and screw it up, but i'm afraid of sanding the stringer down to far...How much of a gap can i have?

I keep trying to remind myself that the people who put these together probably just eyeballed a lot of stuff...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SkiBum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2007 at 4:18pm
Originally posted by Yak3 Yak3 wrote:

I'm taking a break cause I don't want to rush it and screw it up, but i'm afraid of sanding the stringer down to far...How much of a gap can i have?


I am assuming you are talking about the gap between the hull and the stringer when you set the stringer in place? If that is the case then you should have most of the stringer touching but as much as 1/4" gap is not bad in limited spans.

When you apply the new stringer first use clean water and a green scratch pad to clean the area. Then wipe with paper towels and let dry. Now, apply epoxy resin to the hull. Add a layer of epoxy mat just as wide as the stringer. Saturate the mat with epoxy. Add another layer of epoxy mat. Saturate this mat with resin and roll out the bubbles. Apply epoxy to the bottom of the stringer. Set the stringer in place and apply weights to hold it down.

The weight of the stringer and weight will force the stringer onto the mat. The mat will compress in deep spots and expand to fill low spots.

When it is cured go back with West 404 filler and epoxy to fill the gaps. This gives a rock solid bond to the hull.

Follow by using consecutive layers 2", 4", and 8" wide along the joint. Then use the 404 filler to make a bead 1" up the stringer and 1" down the hull. Make the bead at least 1/4" thick to 1/2" total.

Take your time. Do it right the first time.
Bill
http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks
www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote copcraft Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2007 at 8:15pm
Bill

For some reason the way you just explained putting the mat under the stringer just made sense to me. I wish I would have understood to do that. It sounds like that would work good. I didn't put anything but epoxy between the hull and stringer. Oh well.

David
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SkiBum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-16-2007 at 5:29am
Originally posted by copcraft copcraft wrote:

Bill

For some reason the way you just explained putting the mat under the stringer just made sense to me. I wish I would have understood to do that. It sounds like that would work good. I didn't put anything but epoxy between the hull and stringer. Oh well.

David


What is important is to maintain a 50/50 mix of resin and glass. The glass adds strength to the resin. The two layers of epoxy mat below the stringer help maintain that ratio of glass to resin as well as compensating for inconsistencies in depth. Subsequent filling of gaps should be done with some sort of fine or chopped strand glass mixed with the resin to keep that ratio.

I have certainly gone out of ratio several times on my project. Gravity pulls the resin down the sides of the stringers into the bilge and on the other side it pools. That's when I learned to use aerosil-cabosil as a thickening agent.
Bill
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www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob's2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-21-2007 at 9:39pm
I, like Brian , am following your posts and learning as we go. As an old fat man who "works" mostly at a desk and computer it's taking me significantly longer to "git'r dun" but I'm working at it!
Bob Ed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pgaski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2007 at 6:48pm
I'm starting my stringer replacement this week. Can you tell me how much resin and cloth to order for the stringers and floor.

Thanks Pgaski
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2007 at 7:24pm
Pga, I looked but couldn't find the material list that Bill (skibum) put together. I'll keep looking! You did catch that you should be using epoxy resin for the structural repairs and NOT the polyester. I have used West and Mas epoxy's. Both are great but I think the Mas is more reasonable in cost. You can use it for any deep repairs on the outside of the hull before re gelling but a polyvinyl must be used between the two. The gel will not stick directly to the epoxy.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkhallpass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2007 at 9:12pm
Here is the shopping list posted by Bill (SkiBum) on March 15. It is from a thread started by Jon4Pres regarding the stringer floor replacement in his 82. BKH

To replace the stringers this is a pretty good list of materials:

quan      item
5 gal     Epoxy resin 635 thin 3:1 ratio
1 roll    50 yds 2" E-glass tape
1 roll    50 yds 4" E-glass tape
1 roll    50 yds 8" E-glass tape
5yds      Epoxy mat
5qts      West 404 filler (fine glass)
5qts      Aerosil-Cabosil thickening agent
5qts      Fairing compound
25 ea     2" wood paintbrushes
25 ea     stir sticks
5 ea      1qt mixing containers
2ea       2"x10"x16'
2ea       1"x6"x12'

Each stringer consumes about one gallon of epoxy resin from start to finish. Use the epoxy mat to laminate both sides of the stringers. Seat the stringers with 2 layers of epoxy mat and clamp until cured. Fill gaps with 404 filler and epoxy. Then use 2", 4", 8" strips along the joint. Use 404 and epoxy to make a bead 1" above and below the joint 1/4" to 1/2" thick.

That is all it takes to laminate and install the stringers.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote robman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-30-2007 at 1:37pm
SkiBum,

do you still have the templates for the stringers you replaced?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Yak3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-02-2007 at 9:27am
even if you don't put that epoxy mat down underneath the stringer it's not a big deal if you mixed the filler in the right quantities. I talked to the west system guys and they said it's not necessary. I just got done rebuilding my floor. Whatever you come up with will be better. I had a 3ft strip of stringer left on one side and the rest was dirt. The boat did fine like that for a couple years as far as i can guess. I would give you my templates but I did so much sanding and cutting from those that I don't think they'd be much good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-02-2007 at 11:40am
Rob, Without any templates, you will need to "scribe" the stringers to match the hull contour. Place the uncut stringer (cut to length) in the boat level to the final position you want it. Take a cheap children's compass and open it up to the widest gap between the bottom of the new stringer and the hull. determine that this dimension will drop the stringer to the proper height after cutting and if not add the difference to the compass setting. Keep the stringer propped up in the boat and temporarily clamped. Pull the compass down the full length of the stringer with the point on the hull and the pencil on the wood. You will now have the exact shape of the hull transfered to the bottom of the new stringer. Set the saw you are using to match the side to side angle of the hull and start cutting! Some fitting and even re scribing may be needed because the hull angle does change.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-02-2007 at 12:01pm
Pete,with your guidance and little tid bits of knowledge this job will be complete by Thanksgiving......
Everyone needs to do ONE stringer job.............
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mojo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-02-2007 at 5:21pm
Hey Doc,
Anytime you feel like doing another, let me know.. My 76' won't be doing anything all winter

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-02-2007 at 9:51pm
dave, how ya doin' buddy.The last time I was in that boat I had some assistance from Mr. B. If you can negotiate the deed to go down with the crew we had a G/Lake I am a go.
But we will have to do it in La. That climate ain't for this redneck.I have a buddy of mine Grouse hunting just north of Green Lake as we speak,too cold for me..........
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-04-2007 at 11:28am
Boat doc, im thinking about doin some bird hunting myself,
"the things you own will start to own you"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mojo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-05-2007 at 3:15pm
Originally posted by boat dr boat dr wrote:

dave, how ya doin' buddy.The last time I was in that boat I had some assistance from Mr. B. If you can negotiate the deed to go down with the crew we had a G/Lake I am a go.
But we will have to do it in La. That climate ain't for this redneck.I have a buddy of mine Grouse hunting just north of Green Lake as we speak,too cold for me..........


Hahaha, whats the matter with a little freezing rain there Doc??? OK, I'll send her down on a flatbed and a case of beer. Have her ready anytime before Spring.. Oh and could ya fix that Carb while you're at it??? Thanks there Pal !!!!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 80ski-tige Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-19-2007 at 11:24pm
Hats off to SkiBum, you have more dedication and will than me. My '80 Ski Tige could benefit from the overhaul you performed but I don't know that it is bad enough to need everything you did to yours. Maybe I'm just hoping to not have to do all of that work. I thank you for all the pictures and information though, as I'm sure I'll be doing most of the replacement. I see I didn't buy near enough resin though, only 2 gallons,oops!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-20-2007 at 9:11am
Originally posted by 80ski-tige 80ski-tige wrote:

My '80 Ski Tige

Im pretty sure Tige didnt come about until the early 90's. If your boat is a Correct Craft, then you have a Ski Tique!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 80ski-tige Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-21-2007 at 3:27pm
Right you are TRBenji, I am a dufus. I did sign up and post that half asleep but still can't believe I mispelled my own boat! Twice! Jeez, I'm really slipping!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-21-2007 at 3:34pm
Originally posted by 80ski-tige 80ski-tige wrote:

Right you are TRBenji, I am a dufus. I did sign up and post that half asleep but still can't believe I mispelled my own boat! Twice! Jeez, I'm really slipping!

Well, 3 times if you count your profile! If it were me, Id sign up with a new (and not misspelled) username
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 80 Ski-Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-21-2007 at 5:34pm
Where is a good place to get the pourable foam for doing under the floor? How much does it cost and how much would I need to do the floor in a '80 model Ski Tique? I know West Marine sells it in small quanities but $100 bucks for enough to cover 2 cubic feet seems high. Any ideas?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Barracuda Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-22-2007 at 9:30am
80 tique- I bought a bunch of pourable foam from this place
It was not for a CC, but you might find it helpful.
Good luck
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-22-2007 at 2:00pm
I used Fiberglass coatings out of St. Pete, they gave me a reasonable discount.
"the things you own will start to own you"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkhallpass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-22-2007 at 3:28pm
I believe that Ski Bum bought all his materials from US Composites. DavidF has also recomended them. FWIW. BKH
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-22-2007 at 3:47pm
Originally posted by Barracuda Barracuda wrote:

80 tique- I bought a bunch of pourable foam from this place
It was not for a CC, but you might find it helpful.
Good luck


I haven't used the pourable foam in years. It always seems to be a big mess and hard to calculate needed amounts. I have used a fair amount of this spray 2 component. It comes with 2 types of disposable nozzles. A fan spray and a cavity injection. The cavity injection nozzle is made so a extension tube (poly 1/4" ID) can be put on the end for real deep and hard to reach areas.

spray foam


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