Starting 87 SN Floor/Stinger Repair |
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copcraft
Senior Member Joined: October-07-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 165 |
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Brian
I had the same deal when I took out the stringer. There was about 1/4" of resin the length of both sides of the old stringer. My new stringer was probably not as tight and form fitting as it should have been. I grinded quite a bit of the old fiberglass out, but still had a "groove" where the old stringer was. I poured a bead of resin in the groove, placed the new stringer in, then epoxyed a 4" strip of 7 1/2oz cloth (2" up the side and 2" on the floor) on the downhill side of the stringer. When that was dry the next day I sanded, cleaned w/acetone and then poured epoxy into the voids on the uphill side. I then did the 4" cloth on the uphill side. I then started going from the floor up the side, over the top, down the side, and onto the floor. I staggered the width on the floor with every layer. I now have about five coats like that on the stringer. I don't know if it's right or not, but it seems pretty strong. Good Luck. David |
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eric lavine
Grand Poobah Joined: August-13-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13413 |
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anything is stronger then what it was, remember you were probably running the boat or the previous owner was running it with rotted stringers for who knows how many years
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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copcraft
Senior Member Joined: October-07-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 165 |
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Eric
That is exactly what I kept telling myself when I was talking myself out of putting more layers on. Our phone conversation also made sense regarding the lack of strength in a rotten stringer. Like you said, anything ne would be stronger. David |
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SkiBum
Gold Member Joined: November-17-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 587 |
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Find out soon enough. I too pondered how many layers of glass and resin were needed. Turns out you probably just need to properly seat the stringer with two layers of epoxy mat and resin. Then fill the gaps with epoxy resin and West 404 filler. Follow that with three layers of epoxy and glass in 2", 4", and 8" widths. Use epoxy and 404 to build a bead extending 1/2" above and below the joint. Strong enough.
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bkhallpass
Grand Poobah Joined: March-29-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4723 |
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I have a lot of respect for you Bill, doing this day in and day out for almost 3 months now. I spent about two hours grinding tonight, and it's tough work - particularly for a guy like me who spends his days in a suit behind a desk. Hands, back and arms are spent.
I'm enjoying it, but can't imagine putting in the hours you have in such a short period of time. Keep the pics coming. Your thread is one of my main reference guides. BKH |
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Yak3
Groupie Joined: March-10-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 50 |
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I'm taking a break cause I don't want to rush it and screw it up, but i'm afraid of sanding the stringer down to far...How much of a gap can i have?
I keep trying to remind myself that the people who put these together probably just eyeballed a lot of stuff... |
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SkiBum
Gold Member Joined: November-17-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 587 |
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I am assuming you are talking about the gap between the hull and the stringer when you set the stringer in place? If that is the case then you should have most of the stringer touching but as much as 1/4" gap is not bad in limited spans. When you apply the new stringer first use clean water and a green scratch pad to clean the area. Then wipe with paper towels and let dry. Now, apply epoxy resin to the hull. Add a layer of epoxy mat just as wide as the stringer. Saturate the mat with epoxy. Add another layer of epoxy mat. Saturate this mat with resin and roll out the bubbles. Apply epoxy to the bottom of the stringer. Set the stringer in place and apply weights to hold it down. The weight of the stringer and weight will force the stringer onto the mat. The mat will compress in deep spots and expand to fill low spots. When it is cured go back with West 404 filler and epoxy to fill the gaps. This gives a rock solid bond to the hull. Follow by using consecutive layers 2", 4", and 8" wide along the joint. Then use the 404 filler to make a bead 1" up the stringer and 1" down the hull. Make the bead at least 1/4" thick to 1/2" total. Take your time. Do it right the first time. |
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copcraft
Senior Member Joined: October-07-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 165 |
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Bill
For some reason the way you just explained putting the mat under the stringer just made sense to me. I wish I would have understood to do that. It sounds like that would work good. I didn't put anything but epoxy between the hull and stringer. Oh well. David |
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SkiBum
Gold Member Joined: November-17-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 587 |
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What is important is to maintain a 50/50 mix of resin and glass. The glass adds strength to the resin. The two layers of epoxy mat below the stringer help maintain that ratio of glass to resin as well as compensating for inconsistencies in depth. Subsequent filling of gaps should be done with some sort of fine or chopped strand glass mixed with the resin to keep that ratio. I have certainly gone out of ratio several times on my project. Gravity pulls the resin down the sides of the stringers into the bilge and on the other side it pools. That's when I learned to use aerosil-cabosil as a thickening agent. |
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Bob's2001
Senior Member Joined: March-28-2005 Location: Lake Jackson TX Status: Offline Points: 241 |
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I, like Brian , am following your posts and learning as we go. As an old fat man who "works" mostly at a desk and computer it's taking me significantly longer to "git'r dun" but I'm working at it!
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Bob Ed
83 2001 |
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Pgaski
Groupie Joined: May-26-2004 Location: Plymouth, MI Status: Offline Points: 53 |
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I'm starting my stringer replacement this week. Can you tell me how much resin and cloth to order for the stringers and floor.
Thanks Pgaski |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Pga, I looked but couldn't find the material list that Bill (skibum) put together. I'll keep looking! You did catch that you should be using epoxy resin for the structural repairs and NOT the polyester. I have used West and Mas epoxy's. Both are great but I think the Mas is more reasonable in cost. You can use it for any deep repairs on the outside of the hull before re gelling but a polyvinyl must be used between the two. The gel will not stick directly to the epoxy.
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bkhallpass
Grand Poobah Joined: March-29-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4723 |
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Here is the shopping list posted by Bill (SkiBum) on March 15. It is from a thread started by Jon4Pres regarding the stringer floor replacement in his 82. BKH
To replace the stringers this is a pretty good list of materials: quan item 5 gal Epoxy resin 635 thin 3:1 ratio 1 roll 50 yds 2" E-glass tape 1 roll 50 yds 4" E-glass tape 1 roll 50 yds 8" E-glass tape 5yds Epoxy mat 5qts West 404 filler (fine glass) 5qts Aerosil-Cabosil thickening agent 5qts Fairing compound 25 ea 2" wood paintbrushes 25 ea stir sticks 5 ea 1qt mixing containers 2ea 2"x10"x16' 2ea 1"x6"x12' Each stringer consumes about one gallon of epoxy resin from start to finish. Use the epoxy mat to laminate both sides of the stringers. Seat the stringers with 2 layers of epoxy mat and clamp until cured. Fill gaps with 404 filler and epoxy. Then use 2", 4", 8" strips along the joint. Use 404 and epoxy to make a bead 1" above and below the joint 1/4" to 1/2" thick. That is all it takes to laminate and install the stringers. |
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Livin' the Dream
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robman
Newbie Joined: October-29-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 19 |
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SkiBum,
do you still have the templates for the stringers you replaced? |
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Yak3
Groupie Joined: March-10-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 50 |
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even if you don't put that epoxy mat down underneath the stringer it's not a big deal if you mixed the filler in the right quantities. I talked to the west system guys and they said it's not necessary. I just got done rebuilding my floor. Whatever you come up with will be better. I had a 3ft strip of stringer left on one side and the rest was dirt. The boat did fine like that for a couple years as far as i can guess. I would give you my templates but I did so much sanding and cutting from those that I don't think they'd be much good.
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Rob, Without any templates, you will need to "scribe" the stringers to match the hull contour. Place the uncut stringer (cut to length) in the boat level to the final position you want it. Take a cheap children's compass and open it up to the widest gap between the bottom of the new stringer and the hull. determine that this dimension will drop the stringer to the proper height after cutting and if not add the difference to the compass setting. Keep the stringer propped up in the boat and temporarily clamped. Pull the compass down the full length of the stringer with the point on the hull and the pencil on the wood. You will now have the exact shape of the hull transfered to the bottom of the new stringer. Set the saw you are using to match the side to side angle of the hull and start cutting! Some fitting and even re scribing may be needed because the hull angle does change.
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boat dr
Grand Poobah Joined: June-27-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4245 |
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Pete,with your guidance and little tid bits of knowledge this job will be complete by Thanksgiving......
Everyone needs to do ONE stringer job............. |
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Mojo
Grand Poobah Joined: December-06-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 3104 |
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Hey Doc,
Anytime you feel like doing another, let me know.. My 76' won't be doing anything all winter Moj' |
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05' SV211 TE
73' Martinique had:96' SNOB had:76' Nautique had 77 Tique |
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boat dr
Grand Poobah Joined: June-27-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4245 |
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dave, how ya doin' buddy.The last time I was in that boat I had some assistance from Mr. B. If you can negotiate the deed to go down with the crew we had a G/Lake I am a go.
But we will have to do it in La. That climate ain't for this redneck.I have a buddy of mine Grouse hunting just north of Green Lake as we speak,too cold for me.......... |
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eric lavine
Grand Poobah Joined: August-13-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13413 |
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Boat doc, im thinking about doin some bird hunting myself,
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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Mojo
Grand Poobah Joined: December-06-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 3104 |
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Hahaha, whats the matter with a little freezing rain there Doc??? OK, I'll send her down on a flatbed and a case of beer. Have her ready anytime before Spring.. Oh and could ya fix that Carb while you're at it??? Thanks there Pal !!!! Moj' |
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05' SV211 TE
73' Martinique had:96' SNOB had:76' Nautique had 77 Tique |
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80ski-tige
Newbie Joined: November-19-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2 |
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Hats off to SkiBum, you have more dedication and will than me. My '80 Ski Tige could benefit from the overhaul you performed but I don't know that it is bad enough to need everything you did to yours. Maybe I'm just hoping to not have to do all of that work. I thank you for all the pictures and information though, as I'm sure I'll be doing most of the replacement. I see I didn't buy near enough resin though, only 2 gallons,oops!
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21108 |
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Im pretty sure Tige didnt come about until the early 90's. If your boat is a Correct Craft, then you have a Ski Tique! |
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80ski-tige
Newbie Joined: November-19-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2 |
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Right you are TRBenji, I am a dufus. I did sign up and post that half asleep but still can't believe I mispelled my own boat! Twice! Jeez, I'm really slipping!
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21108 |
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Well, 3 times if you count your profile! If it were me, Id sign up with a new (and not misspelled) username |
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80 Ski-Tique
Newbie Joined: November-21-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 38 |
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Where is a good place to get the pourable foam for doing under the floor? How much does it cost and how much would I need to do the floor in a '80 model Ski Tique? I know West Marine sells it in small quanities but $100 bucks for enough to cover 2 cubic feet seems high. Any ideas?
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Barracuda
Moderator Group Joined: November-17-2003 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 998 |
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80 tique- I bought a bunch of pourable foam from this place
It was not for a CC, but you might find it helpful. Good luck |
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eric lavine
Grand Poobah Joined: August-13-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13413 |
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I used Fiberglass coatings out of St. Pete, they gave me a reasonable discount.
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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bkhallpass
Grand Poobah Joined: March-29-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4723 |
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I believe that Ski Bum bought all his materials from US Composites. DavidF has also recomended them. FWIW. BKH
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Livin' the Dream
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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I haven't used the pourable foam in years. It always seems to be a big mess and hard to calculate needed amounts. I have used a fair amount of this spray 2 component. It comes with 2 types of disposable nozzles. A fan spray and a cavity injection. The cavity injection nozzle is made so a extension tube (poly 1/4" ID) can be put on the end for real deep and hard to reach areas. spray foam |
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