Starting 87 SN Floor/Stinger Repair

I have not seen any change in handling of the BFN since the old foam was removed and the new foma installed. With the exception that it does sit higher in the water.

The only reason why I wanted to put the foam back in, other than flotation of coarse, was I remember Skibum saying how much more solid the boat felt after he put the foam in.I have heard this from others as well. I have such a lack of storage in the boat that I wanted to add some small compartment under the floor where the foam used to be but the boat was bad about pounding in choppy water before and I certainly don't want to make that worse.

Pete im with you on the foaming thing, but some prefer it, in the long run it does more damage than good, would i re-foam my own boat? no i wouldnt. if it was an ocean going vessel, yes i would,

80, you can also take the cut-offs and put them in the next compartment and foam over them, you can also mix in peanuts (not Planter's) if your on a budget, start with the peanuts closest to the hull because of thier shapes it will allow some air and also water to drain

Just curious 8122, have you had to replace the stringers or floor in your Tique? Thanks for all the info.

I also purchased most of my materials for the fiberglass work before I saw Ski Bum's restore. I bought and cannot return matting, resin, hardener and such for polyester resin. If I paint or gelcoat over it will it seal the moisture out? I have always used the polyester stuff, I had no idea it absorbed moisture until reading ski bum's post. Will I be o.k. using this because I don't have the money right now to replace all of it with epoxy based components?

Barracuda wrote: 80 tique- I bought a bunch of pourable foam from this place It was not for a CC, but you might find it helpful. Good luck

I haven't used the pourable foam in years. It always seems to be a big mess and hard to calculate needed amounts. I have used a fair amount of this spray 2 component. It comes with 2 types of disposable nozzles. A fan spray and a cavity injection. The cavity injection nozzle is made so a extension tube (poly 1/4" ID) can be put on the end for real deep and hard to reach areas.

spray foam

I used Fiberglass coatings out of St. Pete, they gave me a reasonable discount.

Where is a good place to get the pourable foam for doing under the floor? How much does it cost and how much would I need to do the floor in a '80 model Ski Tique? I know West Marine sells it in small quanities but $100 bucks for enough to cover 2 cubic feet seems high. Any ideas?

Right you are TRBenji, I am a dufus. I did sign up and post that half asleep but still can't believe I mispelled my own boat! Twice! Jeez, I'm really slipping!

Hats off to SkiBum, you have more dedication and will than me. My '80 Ski Tige could benefit from the overhaul you performed but I don't know that it is bad enough to need everything you did to yours. Maybe I'm just hoping to not have to do all of that work. I thank you for all the pictures and information though, as I'm sure I'll be doing most of the replacement. I see I didn't buy near enough resin though, only 2 gallons,oops!

Boat doc, im thinking about doin some bird hunting myself,

Hey Doc,
Anytime you feel like doing another, let me know.. My 76' won't be doing anything all winter

Moj'

Rob, Without any templates, you will need to "scribe" the stringers to match the hull contour. Place the uncut stringer (cut to length) in the boat level to the final position you want it. Take a cheap children's compass and open it up to the widest gap between the bottom of the new stringer and the hull. determine that this dimension will drop the stringer to the proper height after cutting and if not add the difference to the compass setting. Keep the stringer propped up in the boat and temporarily clamped. Pull the compass down the full length of the stringer with the point on the hull and the pencil on the wood. You will now have the exact shape of the hull transfered to the bottom of the new stringer. Set the saw you are using to match the side to side angle of the hull and start cutting! Some fitting and even re scribing may be needed because the hull angle does change.

SkiBum,

do you still have the templates for the stringers you replaced?