New Project boat. 74 Mustang 17

Hey everyone. I wanted to share my new project boat. I consider myself an amateur boat restorer and I love finding old hulls worth bringing back to life. Typically I've worked on SeaCrafts and one bass boat (that was not worth restoration, but was still fun) so this boat is totally different to me.

I bought this boat knowing that all the wood is rotten and the engine was "seized". I'm quite familiar with stringer and floor replacement and this boat looks fairly simple in that regard except for some careful geometry to ensure engine alignment. I have a plan for that.

The hull is in great original shape with all it's parts and pieces. The gelcoat is really nasty on the bottom so I'll be doing a full gel job. I did not anticipate how destroyed the motor would be. Hopefully the crank is OK. In the oilpan I found 3-1/2 connecting rods. Parts of 3 shattered pistons. A pile of bearings and other miscellaneous engine components that should be attached to things. Somehow, things did not get too banged up in there so I am hopeful. I think if the crank is bad, I'll probably switch to standard rotation due to parts availability and cost.

On to the pics! Some of you may have seen in on the FB group while I was waiting activation here.

8122pbrainard wrote: I encourage you to think hard about changing the rotation. When you get into the engine, take a close look at what components could still be used to keep it s RR.

Thank you for the welcome. Looking forward to getting this on the water. (it will be a while)

What is the benefit of keeping the RR? Reading through the threads it seems like parts can be a bear to source. For instance, if my crank is bad, finding one means most likely finding another RR 302 motor, yes? A 5.0 mustang motor can be had almost free around me. That was my thinking anyway. Is there a significant advantage to the RR?

A 5.0 block would be a option but you can’t mix some rotating parts due to the fact early engines use a 28oz imbalance and the 5.0’s use 50oz

Hmm....
A srd rotation five oh from a Craigslist or junkyard explorer, and a power plus 1.23 gearbox would get you going cheap, fast, and keep the rotation correct...

TRBenj wrote: Except for the fact that the 1.23 box is a $2k item. RH parts are a lot cheaper. The smaller cc’s I’ve driven that were repowered with LH powertrain a (spinning LH props) have some very poor, borderline dangerous handling characteristics.

Really? Wow. That is good to know. That is what I need to know. If it is worth the extra effort to keep it RR then perhaps I will. I wonder what it is about the rotation that makes it so different. The rest of the boat is symmetrical. What makes it handle poorly, any ideas?

Sanger handles decent, so do the MC I drive. Malibu leans more than I care for but tolerable. Vintage cc with lefty = dangerous. Serious chine locker. Too narrow to overcome the Stbd lean I guess. I don’t care much which way the boat backs up, seems pretty inconsequential... though it makes sense to mount the boom opposite your prop rotation.

$500 for a good used transmission with reasonable hours seems in the ballpark but I can’t find one. They’re $2k new for the improved version including damper and cooler.

TRBenj wrote: Sanger handles decent, so do the MC I drive. Malibu leans more than I care for but tolerable. Vintage cc with lefty = dangerous. Serious chine locker. Too narrow to overcome the Stbd lean I guess. I don’t care much which way the boat backs up, seems pretty inconsequential... though it makes sense to mount the boom opposite your prop rotation. $500 for a good used transmission with reasonable hours seems in the ballpark but I can’t find one. They’re $2k new for the improved version including damper and cooler.

Pulling right in reverse is actually better when you are by yourself and if your the type that doesn't ever allow your boat to touch a dock. UT's boat is the only LH old boat I've driven and I did not open it up.

TRBenj wrote: Agree to disagree on the docking. Either can be done smoothly with practice but I’d rather have the stern pulling away from the dock than towards it... if soft/touchless docking is your preference.

Yep.

BKH

TRBenj wrote: Agree to disagree on the docking. Either can be done smoothly with practice but I’d rather have the stern pulling away from the dock than towards it... if soft/touchless docking is your preference.

I guess none of you guys ever spent any time in South Florida They all drive open fishing boats so they can run all the way to the front to keep from crashing into the dock. Many bows have battle scars from when they don't move fast enough. My Shamrock walks to the right which is perfect for docking in our canal since I tie up on the starboard side. Something to do with that keel makes it walk straight over when bumping to from forward to reverse several times.

Gary S wrote: TRBenj wrote: Agree to disagree on the docking. Either can be done smoothly with practice but I’d rather have the stern pulling away from the dock than towards it... if soft/touchless docking is your preference. I guess none of you guys ever spent any time in South Florida They all drive open fishing boats so they can run all the way to the front to keep from crashing into the dock. Many bows have battle scars from when they don't move fast enough. My Shamrock walks to the right which is perfect for docking in our canal since I tie up on the starboard side. Something to do with that keel makes it walk straight over when bumping to from forward to reverse several times.

Nothing like the voice of experience

quinner wrote: If looking for some quick HP gains, know where you can get some new stickers for that engine!!

I do like to keep things as original looking as possible so I would probably be interested in a decal set for the motor.

So upon further investigation, The block is junk. The casting on the bottom of two of the cylinders is actually broken off from all of the trauma. I've got some gouges on the crank as well. Not sure how deep they can be before it is not repairable. At the least I'm looking at a new block, possibly block/crank. Camshaft looks like it was spared.

8122pbrainard wrote: Wow! Yup, that engine had a major. Maybe these guys worked on it!

That video looks like a lot of fun!

These aren't even the ugliest pictures. Just the ones that show the damage to block and crank.

I think it went like this. "Oh crap, The engine is making some awful clanging noises, we better get back to the dock FAST". BOOM. clang bang....all noise stops.

Since I know we all love carnage, here is the contents of the oil pan

Beware the old dampener and flywheel would be wrong imbalance, but that is solvable

That works out for you,one piece seal cranks have no wick lines- you just need a reverse rotation main seal. You can tell your machinist that the engine is RR they can polish the crank for that direction. Like stated before though he needs to know that it needs to be balanced to 28 oz imbalance rather than a late model 5.0's 50 oz imbalance. Your doing that because you need to use the original flywheel off your old engine to get starter match up. Might as well use the original dampner too since it's 28 oz imbalance and then the timing marks are correct and any pulley's match as well.