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Stubborn cutlass bearing

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MrMcD View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2019 at 3:42am
It does not matter where the shaft is in the log, the logs were not that accurate on install at the factory.
It does matter where the shaft runs in your cutlass bearing, as long as it does not drag or touch the log it is OK, It has to be straight as it spins in the cutlass. The term happy place has been used for that spot where the shaft spins with the least amount of drag.   When in that spot you want to align your engine to match it.
In this spot the cutlass will have the least amount of drag and last the longest.
Maybe your boat will pick up a few RPM!
If the Cutlass is off center making your prop shaft not point at your transmission you adjust the cutlass.
You have yours now tweaked to be within 1/16? That is pretty close, should be easy to align your engine to match now. It looked like you were at least a 1/2" off yesterday.
My Engine mounts had not been moved in 19 years and did not wish to adjust easy.
After loosening the mounts I hit them with some penetrating oil and found I could tap on them with a ball pen hammer and things moved in as needed. I seem to remember using a crowbar on one to move the mount out as needed.   The up and down movements are easy with a wrench it is the in and out movements on the mounts that took some English to make them happen. You may need to open the mount a little after loosening the lock bolt.
It pinches the in and out shaft to hold it tight. Just loosening the bolt does not necessarily free up the slider.
The Coupler adjustment can be played with to get close to zero. Mine ended up at .0015 and I quit trying to get closer. I think .003 is acceptable.
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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2019 at 5:14am
Grant,
Yes, you are good to go onto aligning the engine to the shaft As Mark mentioned, centering in the log doesn't have to be perfect. If up and down centering is needed, then the strut would need shimming as previously mentioned.

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

you can use some stainless flat washers between the strut base and hull ether at the two forward bolts or at the two aft.


Great job on tweaking the strut!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gcam4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2019 at 8:47am
Mark, I hope my mounts move well. I know they move well up/ down but as you alluded to it's the side-side that is difficult for a 24 year old boat! I moved the strut about 1/8-3/16 to port so I feel pretty good. It's as good side-side as I feel I can get it! I dont think it was off 1/2" but at least 1/4". I will post pictures soon of the tweaking process and of a few other items. As mentioned before I'll be happy to loan the bearing puller/installer out. I'll likely post pictures of that project as well. If all goes well, I'll have it in the water this weekend.

Thanks Pete!

What is everyone doing for safety collars for the ARE shaft?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2019 at 1:16pm
My boat is still in wrap for winter but If I remember it had a round safety collar held with a set screw. I think I put it back on the ARE shaft. I will be opening it up soon to check the brakes and charge the battery, I will have to take a look at the shaft. We have rain for the next week so it will wait a bit.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2019 at 2:49pm
Grant,The twopiece collars work great.



McMaster has them in stainless


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2019 at 3:11pm
Climax Metal 2C-100-S T303 Stainless Steel Two-Piece Clamping Collar, 1" Bore Size, 1-3/4" OD, With 1/4-28 x 5/8 Set Screw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VXU0UK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i1e5CbGCC3BET
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2019 at 2:53am
Nice tip Tim on the Coupler. That should work great.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gcam4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-28-2019 at 10:46pm
Thanks to everyone's help on the forum. I got the alignment within 0.002" and under, it did take a little bit to get there but I did manage. Did it in the front yard at the house and boy It was hot! The prop took a really long time to lap in though. I was at it for at least 45 min. There is absolutely no drag on this system at all. The wind will almost spin the the prop now!

Put the boat in on Sunday and ran it easy to make sure all was well with it. It ran really well with less vibration and noise. The prop change really made a big difference as I went from a factory OJ 14X16 to a OJ 428 CNC. Hard turns to the left are now not obnoxiously loud as they had been since the boat was new. The one downside was I felt a hiccup once at ~36 mph. I put the boat on the lift and checked everything to see if there was an indication of anything. In my head I thought the prop had gotten loose so I tightened the nut down on the prop as I had installed it with the original castle nut and then put the nyloc on it afterrwards which wasn't firm against the prop. Hindsight always being 20/20, I should have loosened the nut and tried to move the prop. I ordered another nyloc and cotter pin and I'm going to pull the boat tomorrow night and verify the prop again. If indeed it got loose the only reason why I see that happening was if I didn't get all the lapping compound out or the key held it up. I did mark the shaft with a sharpie during dry fit up and it went on fully.

So, any ideas on this? Also, I noticed when the boat is in neutral the prop shaft spins ever so slightly. I don't think this a major concern but I don't know if it's common or not. As mentioned before the system has exceptionally low drag now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-29-2019 at 5:11am
Grant,
Concerning your "hiccup"
Understand the prop nut seats the prop onto the taper. If the taper is good, then the nut isn't even needed. Then, if the key wasn't in the keyway causing the prop to not seat on the taper, you would have had lots of vibration. So, I have a feeling what happened is the prop cavitated briefly. Get out on the water and try it again. For whatever reason, under certain conditions, props will let loose of the water occasionally. All it takes is a small pocket of air getting to the prop say from making a turn and going over a wave.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-29-2019 at 6:25am
Originally posted by gcam4 gcam4 wrote:

Also, I noticed when the boat is in neutral the prop shaft spins ever so slightly. I don't think this a major concern but I don't know if it's common or not. As mentioned before the system has exceptionally low drag now.


From your description, you're describing a "dirty neutral".

You can search here on CCF or click on the link below and do some reading.

If it's as slow as you say, I wouldn't worry about it especially if you can stop the shaft with something like a 2 by 4 lightly pressed against the coupling.

link

What kind of metal is your nyloc nut made of?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gcam4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-29-2019 at 10:16am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Grant,
Concerning your "hiccup"
Understand the prop nut seats the prop onto the taper. If the taper is good, then the nut isn't even needed. Then, if the key wasn't in the keyway causing the prop to not seat on the taper, you would have had lots of vibration. So, I have a feeling what happened is the prop cavitated briefly. Get out on the water and try it again. For whatever reason, under certain conditions, props will let loose of the water occasionally. All it takes is a small pocket of air getting to the prop say from making a turn and going over a wave.


Pete,

Sounds good and your points make sense. The boat ran great before and after the "hiccup" but it just seemed odd. I was in middle school when this boat was bought by my parents and I do not know of any times that it has done this. I will say I was driving through our slalom course when this happened so it wasn't wave or turn induced. There was no indication of vibration after it did it though so I would imagine you are correct. There is definitely a noticeable tone difference in the 3-4k rpm range, it is slightly louder. I believe this is just the nature of the prop change by itself.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gcam4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-29-2019 at 10:18am
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Originally posted by gcam4 gcam4 wrote:

Also, I noticed when the boat is in neutral the prop shaft spins ever so slightly. I don't think this a major concern but I don't know if it's common or not. As mentioned before the system has exceptionally low drag now.


From your description, you're describing a "dirty neutral".

You can search here on CCF or click on the link below and do some reading.

If it's as slow as you say, I wouldn't worry about it especially if you can stop the shaft with something like a 2 by 4 lightly pressed against the coupling.

link

What kind of metal is your nyloc nut made of?


Keno,

Thanks, I will look that up. It doesn't seem excessive at all but will check the linkage and see how much drag it takes to stop the shaft.

Prop nyloc is brass. I'm well aware of stainless and it's propensity to gall with stainless fasteners.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-30-2019 at 2:01am
Sounds like you have made great progress. You will figure out the bugs soon enough.
How did your new prop RPM compared to the old prop?
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