Stubborn cutlass bearing

Grant,
Yes, you are good to go onto aligning the engine to the shaft As Mark mentioned, centering in the log doesn't have to be perfect. If up and down centering is needed, then the strut would need shimming as previously mentioned.

8122pbrainard wrote: you can use some stainless flat washers between the strut base and hull ether at the two forward bolts or at the two aft.

Great job on tweaking the strut!

My boat is still in wrap for winter but If I remember it had a round safety collar held with a set screw. I think I put it back on the ARE shaft. I will be opening it up soon to check the brakes and charge the battery, I will have to take a look at the shaft. We have rain for the next week so it will wait a bit.

Climax Metal 2C-100-S T303 Stainless Steel Two-Piece Clamping Collar, 1" Bore Size, 1-3/4" OD, With 1/4-28 x 5/8 Set Screw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VXU0UK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i1e5CbGCC3BET

Thanks to everyone's help on the forum. I got the alignment within 0.002" and under, it did take a little bit to get there but I did manage. Did it in the front yard at the house and boy It was hot! The prop took a really long time to lap in though. I was at it for at least 45 min. There is absolutely no drag on this system at all. The wind will almost spin the the prop now!

Put the boat in on Sunday and ran it easy to make sure all was well with it. It ran really well with less vibration and noise. The prop change really made a big difference as I went from a factory OJ 14X16 to a OJ 428 CNC. Hard turns to the left are now not obnoxiously loud as they had been since the boat was new. The one downside was I felt a hiccup once at ~36 mph. I put the boat on the lift and checked everything to see if there was an indication of anything. In my head I thought the prop had gotten loose so I tightened the nut down on the prop as I had installed it with the original castle nut and then put the nyloc on it afterrwards which wasn't firm against the prop. Hindsight always being 20/20, I should have loosened the nut and tried to move the prop. I ordered another nyloc and cotter pin and I'm going to pull the boat tomorrow night and verify the prop again. If indeed it got loose the only reason why I see that happening was if I didn't get all the lapping compound out or the key held it up. I did mark the shaft with a sharpie during dry fit up and it went on fully.

So, any ideas on this? Also, I noticed when the boat is in neutral the prop shaft spins ever so slightly. I don't think this a major concern but I don't know if it's common or not. As mentioned before the system has exceptionally low drag now.

gcam4 wrote: Also, I noticed when the boat is in neutral the prop shaft spins ever so slightly. I don't think this a major concern but I don't know if it's common or not. As mentioned before the system has exceptionally low drag now.

From your description, you're describing a "dirty neutral".

You can search here on CCF or click on the link below and do some reading.

If it's as slow as you say, I wouldn't worry about it especially if you can stop the shaft with something like a 2 by 4 lightly pressed against the coupling.

link

What kind of metal is your nyloc nut made of?

KENO wrote: gcam4 wrote: Also, I noticed when the boat is in neutral the prop shaft spins ever so slightly. I don't think this a major concern but I don't know if it's common or not. As mentioned before the system has exceptionally low drag now. From your description, you're describing a "dirty neutral". You can search here on CCF or click on the link below and do some reading. If it's as slow as you say, I wouldn't worry about it especially if you can stop the shaft with something like a 2 by 4 lightly pressed against the coupling. link What kind of metal is your nyloc nut made of?

Keno,

Thanks, I will look that up. It doesn't seem excessive at all but will check the linkage and see how much drag it takes to stop the shaft.

Prop nyloc is brass. I'm well aware of stainless and it's propensity to gall with stainless fasteners.

Dumb questions... What's the log?? How is cutlass wear determined? Visual inspection? Micrometer?

disconnect the coupling to check for movement?

Hi 

We are planning to  replace the cutlass bearing. it the prop can wiggle1 a 2 mm sideways in the bearing. 

so far i can see there is this type of bearing inside. see picture

can anybody tell me this is the correct type of bearing? 
it has a neopreem inside lining. 

Also can anybody direct me to the type of cutlass bearing you would order. or dimensions. 

I see on youtube movies it somtimes are 2 bearings ours looks like one long piece. 

we have SN from 89 with a 1" shaft.  it is a bit difficult to find nautique specialised companies in the Netherlands

great thank you that looks like what i found here. couldn`t find the johnsons brand. but this will also work. 

next mission finding an acme 542;) in europe

I would want a 6” bearing in a single-piece design.  

I wouldn't worry about dirt getting in the forward empty space in the strut. Very few struts are completely filled with a cutlass bearing. Cutting the 4" in half to install one on each end is a option although I feel not needed. 

fahtal wrote:   Ok great.  we will do that then only problem left is dat it have only one screw holding it in place instead of two.

KENO wrote: Since it looks like you're using it full length and not cutting the cutlass bearing in half, one set screw will work just fine as long as the fit is pretty tight like mentioned above.

Plan so far is 4" flush with backside strut. 1 screw. And 1 screw open so dirt can escape.;)