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1988 454 Ski Nautique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-05-2019 at 2:16pm
Phil,
Barbs aside, get us some more info so we can possibly help with your engine continuing to run problem. As previously mentioned, get some voltage readings and then disconnect the alternator and see what happens. Also, take a close look at the ignition switch and Ohm it out to see if the problem could be as simple as a bad switch.


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77 Tique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-05-2019 at 4:06pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

[QUOTE=2001] [QUOTE=KENO]Funny that you think PCM used a resistor bypass circuit for starting on their 351's back then and it somehow was left off the diagram.

Funny how some companies used the bypass and others didn't

Funny that you don't know what you have for an Alternator.

Funny that some alternators will always backfeed through the exciter wire and others won't since they're built differently

Funny that nobody else with a correctly functioning Motorola or Mando alternator that came on the mid 80's PCM 351.s has this problem

Also funny that you feel the need to tell everybody how PCM should have done the wiring

I can understand how and why the resistor is letting the engine shut off, but if your alternator is backfeeding through the exciter wire it's easy enough to prevent that and still bypass the ballast resistor, but I'm sure you can figure that out, since you seem to think you have everything else figured out.





My comments are True and My intent is correct.
You need only to sit back relax, read correctly, understand and learn.
These comments come at a time when you thought you couldn't be taught!

Not so very funny, YOU have misread my Text and have come to an entirely different conclusion when so many rely on your opinions for better running boats.

YOU are a Hysterically Funny Man! Are you short?
YOU have become deflated in misreading my comments, have taken My comments YOU misread personally as if YOU wrote the Correct Craft Book and are now incorrectly reflecting or Mirroring your misunderstandings back at Me as if YOUR issues are My issues?!! I am NOT the one with issues, here LOL!
A typical in-confident entry level Manager 101 mistake but, this IS funny LOL!

Common to 80s Indmar, PCM, Correct Craft and Supra

I'll state it again so as you can understand;
In The Mallory EI case, The lower voltage is need to stop making and breaking...
The EI is an update not common to the 80s, IF and when the updated EI schematic
(I uploaded here) is followed correctly there is no problem! Duh! LOL!

However, it is what it is, schematic flaws and differences aside;
The dash ignition reset button is problematic and Unprecedented, the missing resistor bypass circuit is unprecedented AND the missing Perko disconnect switch is unprecedented and entirely unacceptable.
As stated here and above, Physically on the Boat AND as written in the Schematics common to those Manufactures noted above.

Noted: In an Earlier post in another forum, a user shows where he has bypassed the Resistor. For boats since they are not used very often, build up condensation under the distributor Cap, Condensation at the center High Voltage Coil connection... The extra heat generated from the Engine AND ignition components burning up could possibly help evaporate off Marine condensation LOL!

Yes, You SHOULD feel short, now! LOL!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-05-2019 at 4:10pm
I’m trying to pinpoint the socio/psycho condition you obviously have but am coming up short at the moment.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-05-2019 at 5:30pm
HW/KENO

I don’t know why 2001 has come to our peaceful site and attempted to destroy the peace and harmony we live by, but maybe we could all see this coming. I know I did and surely others. When you come here to tout your engineering prowess and technical aptitude but wind up insulting some of the most helpful people I’ve ever encountered, you’re going to be swiftly discounted and tossed from the great Rolodex of cherished contributors. 2001, you need to find another forum to show off your moderately unimpressive skills and knowledge. In other words, take a hike.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mojo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-05-2019 at 5:53pm
Pete,
Stop, I just made popcorn ....
05' SV211 TE
73' Martinique
had:96' SNOB
had:76' Nautique
had 77 Tique

       

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-05-2019 at 6:11pm
Phil,
I suggest starting over leaving out what you feel is technically wrong and concentrating on the problem. I feel we can help if you simply tell us what you have tested and the results.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-05-2019 at 6:15pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Phil,
I suggest starting over leaving out what you feel is technically wrong and concentrating on the problem. I feel we can help if you simply tell us what you have tested and the results.


Bulleted points vs PhD dissertations might facilitate understanding of the problems. Just sayin'
_____________
“So, how was your weekend?”
“Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.”
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-05-2019 at 6:33pm
Originally posted by 75 Tique 75 Tique wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Phil,
I suggest starting over leaving out what you feel is technically wrong and concentrating on the problem. I feel we can help if you simply tell us what you have tested and the results.


Bulleted points vs PhD dissertations might facilitate understanding of the problems. Just sayin'

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Phil,. As previously mentioned, get some voltage readings and then disconnect the alternator and see what happens. Also, take a close look at the ignition switch and Ohm it out to see if the problem could be as simple as a bad switch.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-05-2019 at 8:13pm
Originally posted by tryathlete tryathlete wrote:

HW/KENO

I don’t know why 2001 has come to our peaceful site and attempted to destroy the peace and harmony we live by, but maybe we could all see this coming. I know I did and surely others. When you come here to tout your engineering prowess and technical aptitude but wind up insulting some of the most helpful people I’ve ever encountered, you’re going to be swiftly discounted and tossed from the great Rolodex of cherished contributors. 2001, you need to find another forum to show off your moderately unimpressive skills and knowledge. In other words, take a hike.


Peter Don't worry about me, I got me some of that boiler plate thick skin with an extra layer of rhino liner on top

Old white haired Pete Phil obviously has it all figured out, just ask him and he'll tell ya'
he doesn't need any help, he said "it starts, runs and turns off superbly" doing it his way

And Phil, i get the feeling you know a lot but just like the rest of us, there's a lot you don't know too so stick around and you might teach people some good stuff and you'll learn some good stuff too.  And don't call me short.......I'm exactly 4 ft 11 inches tall in heels 

And MOJO, I hope you didn't make a big batch of popcorn
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-05-2019 at 10:06pm
Keno, you took one for the team, I might have blown a fuse on this one.

As already stated, many forums are nothing more than a lot of attitude thrown around, this one has been blessed by helpful advice, it is not 100% accurate every time but it is the very best available for the high price of FREE and eventually everyone has received quality help and got back on the water. 2001 read quite a few old posts on any subject and you will learn I speak the truth on this.   


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orlando76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-05-2019 at 10:12pm
I kinda feel like....“Who care if me eat carrot or collard greens? Me also like broccoli and lettuce and lima beans. Me still Cookie Monster. That not a sham.
Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation
1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort
1993 Ski Nautique purple and black 351 HO PCM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-06-2019 at 3:13am
Ladies and Gentlemen, the Grand Poobah!
Ya gotta love that Guy!
Ain't he great?!!
Lets give him a big round of Applause, Yay!
Grand Poobah! Everybody, Yay!

   Thank you, I like it here

Keep in mind these Boats I speak of, were made when Boat Towing was absolutely free.
And now, ya Absolutely need towing insurance!

Let's change that Antique Ski Nautique and make it live up to it's Name "Correct Craft".

Lets make everyone's day on the lake, the best it can be!

So, let's be straight, lets try and point out the corrections or updates, these boats should have to make them as Reliable and Beautiful on the inside as they are on the outside.
Like we all know a Holley is way prettier and performs better than a Rochester but, with just one cough, spit or sneeze guess which is more reliable?   Right! The Ugly Rochester/Edelbrock and Carter/Quadrajet/Spread Bore.
Another one is; Spin on Filters, Only! Toss or Cram the original Fram filter.
Sorry, Fuel injection People but, it is what it is and you are stuck with what ever that is.
The Tank pick up needs to be checked regularly.
Another one is; Chevy style Starter (Solenoid relay, Bendix and Starter together) can be ran in conjunction with original Ford style starter relay
Another one is; While Starting, the momentary Resistor bypass circuit needs to be there for lightning fast starts!
Just to name a few...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-06-2019 at 9:03am
Why stop there, if it's just a few?

How about a little something on your alternator belt alignment, must be some little known reason to run it so crooked

Must be another reason to mount the fuel filter horizontally other than dumping a bunch of gas in the bilge when you unscrew it

Just call me "eager to do some learnin' "   


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-06-2019 at 9:42am
Some learnin:



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-06-2019 at 4:22pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Some learnin:




Yup, Quick draw install!   
I took the picture in that direction to see if you'd notice, very good

This was a running engine in a Twin Screw 34 foot 1984 Carver, ran this way from Ballard to Everett (The Sea Marie Ballard Wa) figuratively without tossing either Belt
(thought I'd avoid problems being already installed in a Boat, NOT!).

Yes, The belt problem needs to go away immediately before the Boat goes in the water
again.

   Last registration for the Boat was 2008;
There is gonna be a heck of a lotta New filters purchased in the near Future!
All the Gas spilling and there is also gonna be a heck of a lot of Gas spilling,
has to be done where the filter is now.
So, as the Gas can run out the Plug hole, out of the Boat, into a pan on the Ground, a towel will wipe up the bilge mess and notice the Vent hose will pickup the fumes, hopefully.
The filter has no place to go yet... Until the Fuel problem is cleared up.
Vertical, upside down or sideways, I can't get a spin on filter off without spilling Gas.
So, sideways it is, with the towel the Filter comes off, I can keep an eye on Gas leaking out at anytime with a short lift of the cover and I can get a hand on the filter without a Filter wrench







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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-06-2019 at 7:14pm


I'm the same way with filters
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rosconole Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2019 at 1:54am
There nothing wrong with the belt or the filter. except for everyone crying about it.
1989 ski nautique ,1991 barefoot nautique, 1993 Mustang Cobra 1998 5.0 Magazine shootout invitee
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2019 at 4:34am
Originally posted by rosconole rosconole wrote:

There nothing wrong with the belt or the filter. except for everyone crying about it.



You're right or rather you would normally be right!
Woulda been fine, I am sure others are like this and look at the pump side
if ya tighten the belt too tight, same thing happens on all of em. Be ware!
But, Ya see, I-I-I have been meddling, with the Boat and I don't wanna leave anything I know about to chance.

So, it IS my fault not the Boat's fault. Lol!
Good conversation and practice though, ain't it great

1) I think the Engine assembly I chose, was in and outta the Boat it was in a few times,
someone dropped and Bent the Alternator bracket     ...Since it's case Iron, I don't know
   how it didn't break off?!!   Hey, on the water test the Alternator belt stayed on but,
   tossed the pump belt instead. I couldn't wait to try it as was.
   Oh yeah and I thought the bigger 105amp Alternator would be cool!
   But, looks like the original 50amp Alternator needs to go back on cause, the engine
   wiring looks like a short run of about #8 set up for 40amps with a 50amp reset switch.
    Damn!

2) The Engine came from a different Boat but, I thought I'd be ahead of the game
   since it was all set up and running, WRONG. These things, new or used never go right.
   There is always the unforeseen going boat to boat or New to Boat.   
   I'm still saving time over the 454 swap! I would of been done on May 27Th but, I got
   sick with a weird Cold.

So, I found another check valve in the Fuel line (Other than the one on the Fuel tank)
a couple days ago (I can't believe that Stuff?!!). The Valve was actually singing a high pitch tune to me. Definite different fitting than all others, common only to check ball fittings, has a rather long Nut area for the check ball.
I took a picture in case other people run into a similar problem and a snap of My Pulley alignment. I checked the fuel tank pickup screen, Fuel tank dirt seems clean enough to pass the screen, now... We'll be changing those corroded looking parts out but, for now; Time for a filter change, water test and tune. Yay!





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2019 at 4:53am
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:



I'm th e same way with filters



Thank you, Keno!
I don't leave home without em





Speaking of filters, Ya know, paddling comes to mind...
There's 10 miles to the gallon but, With the price of Gas,
I bet a pair of Oar locks and really long Oars would work well!
Use the engine cover as a comfy rowing seat. Nice!
...Competition Row Boat
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-12-2019 at 2:26am
****UPDATE*****
Sea Water pump bracket is flimsy

Recommend
Mercruiser Marine
Sea Pump Bracket attachment
               -or-
Volvo (and Indmar) Marine
Harmonic Balancer attached
Both are FORD
I don't know the part numbers yet


Also allows a Better Mercruiser Sea Pump


              -or-

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-16-2019 at 1:40am
*****UPDATE*******
I should of included this one with the Fuel filter and Check Valve Post but,
I thought, I should post it separate Because, it deserves emphasis and the best should be last or next to last! Also, I wanted to look through the site to see if anyone else... ya know.



This is the holey Boaters gripe of all time and I am NOT religious or anything but, an opening comment must be said to all Lol
Paul's Greeting to the Ephesians. 1 Paul, an apostle of Christ Jesus by the will of God, . To the saints in Ephesus, a the faithful in Christ Jesus: 2 Grace and peace to you from God our Father and the Lord Jesus Christ.. Spiritual Blessings (Romans 8:28-34)3 Blessed be the God and Father of our Lord Jesus Christ, who has blessed us in Christ with every spiritual blessing in the heavenly realms.


Ok, here goes... I stated before I am not fond of Holley Carburetors IE: Power Valve, Dual Metering blocks, One metering Block, Dual feed, Single feed, Double pumper, Single Pumper, Dual metering blocks, Externally set float, NO externally set float,,, Christ Jesus by the will of God, Just make it one way!

For all you Boaters out there in Boater land who have rebuilt your Carburetors
and now your Boat runs great after spending $300.00 to $800.00;

     !Surprise!


The other Inline fuel screen (NOT a filter) is located where the Fuel line connects to the Carburetor on most Carburetors (Besides the Tank screen).

The screen (in Holley's case) is soooooooooooo small and fine there is NOT enough area to actually pass gas for more than 600 hours MAX and if it doesn't get plugged with Dirt then it will get soooooooo rusty, the rust won't pass Gas either and or both.
Note: Most other Carburetors utilize a filter in this area.

IMHO: Simply Just remove the fuel screen, clean the fittings and carefully reconnect the fuel line (Leaving the screen out) so as to NOT cross thread or crack the Metal fuel line flared end (The fuel line from Pump to Carburetor is METAL if this is not the case then get some transmission cooling tube and bend up yourself a new Steel fuel line).

The New spin on (water) filter (built for the new fuel injected Boat engines) you just installed will do the work of the screen from now on.

Also, your engine will now most likely run at least fair even if needs rebuilding and the Carburetor spacer leaks. A little starter fluid squirted at the Carb base will tell all with RPM surge if it IS leaking.
I know Starter fluid is dangerous but, the most you'll get is a flash burn as long as you spray it while the engine is running in short bursts and NO puddles.

Now that the Boat runs!
Nothing to do now but, Enjoy your Nice Hot Summer Weekends!





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-16-2019 at 12:10pm
Originally posted by 2001 2001 wrote:

Also, your engine will now most likely run at least fair even if needs rebuilding and the Carburetor spacer leaks. A little starter fluid squirted at the Carb base will tell all with RPM surge if it IS leaking.
I know Starter fluid is dangerous but, the most you'll get is a flash burn as long as you spray it while the engine is running in short bursts and NO puddles.

I'd stay away from ether for that purpose, use carb cleaner instead, quite a bit safer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-17-2019 at 10:59am
By evidence, crap in the fuel system and one blames the carb?

They do know the largest size debris their carb will successfully pass. hence the screen
"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-24-2019 at 2:14am
Originally posted by 63 Skier 63 Skier wrote:

Originally posted by 2001 2001 wrote:

Also, your engine will now most likely run at least fair even if needs rebuilding and the Carburetor spacer leaks. A little starter fluid squirted at the Carb base will tell all with RPM surge if it IS leaking.
I know Starter fluid is dangerous but, the most you'll get is a flash burn as long as you spray it while the engine is running in short bursts and NO puddles.

I'd stay away from ether for that purpose, use carb cleaner instead, quite a bit safer.


Right, Maybe we all should forget that one!
We don't wanna burn up a Nice Boat.
How about a 2 Foot long Hose held up to your ear...
Works like a stethoscope, move the other end around the Base of the Carburetor
and listen for leaks. You won't believe what ya can hear!
Works for Valve taps, Ignition zaps from Bad spark plug wires (turn off the lights works better)...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-24-2019 at 2:42am
*****UPDATE******

Used Indmar exhaust Manifolds on the Ski Naugtique DONE and FORSALE $5k!
Jump forward, using the same on the Spyder (AKA MasterCraft Tristar) 351W left hand rotation PCM Engine. Replacement Engine, already installed, during the "jump Forward".


Not saying the Indmars perform better (The Marine Industry says the PCM smaller port is for low end torque and less Gas) but, I am saying the Indmar exhaust Manifolds are way heavier than the PCMs and with that said, the Indmars are less likely to Leak exhaust at the cylinder head ports where they attach, later down the lake.
For the performance end?   ...We'll see, The GPS will tell all, LOL!


   -Indmar vs PCM-


Ya know how we've talked about performance issues before. Lol!
There is a Forum some where, asking your best Boat speed but, I don't know where it is.
I was surprised to see the wide variance in GPS readings for the exact same STOCK boat...      



I found a rather large performance issue
    


No harm in information, Just information, take it, use it or round file it.
Don't get me wrong, I am not a Mastercraft fan at all!
Mastercrafts are still ugly right up to 2020 but, I'm sorry, it is what it is



                   Just might have a little something to do with the "variance"



   While digging up another set of Indmar exhaust Manifolds for my Spyder project and Besides being expensive... Wanna see what I found?!!

    
   Without deviating from STOCK parts;
Here is a Block off plate for a 454 Mercruiser Elbow, it IS the Biggest elbow STOCK port I know of (For the Obsolete "log manifold"), shown against an Indmar Manifold (seems to disappear because, the 454 Mercruiser Block off plate ALMOST FITS the Indmar exhaust Manifold elbow 3" x 1.75" port), shown again aside the Indmar (So, ya can see the 454 Block off plate vs the Indmar Exhaust Manifold port) and again against a PCM Manifold's 2.9" x 1.38" Port. .
FYI: Indmar Manifold's have four long bolts and PCMs have eight short bolts a side for EZID (Possible the actual casting May say something besides PCM ...maybe Barr).





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2019 at 1:16am
https://youtu.be/cTGo442N1VQ
Hopefully, A Guy is coming by Tuesday 7-2-2019 with $6500.00 and then I'll continue on the Spyder!

Grand Poo Bah was right, ALL Apologies!
After I put a new Battery in and both the Boat and I were all charged up! The System voltage went all ca poof and the engine wouldn't shut down again (Not Diesel related).
The correct PCM Alternator popped back on in a flash, the Power wire for the EI and Hour Meter went back to before the Resister and Problem vanished!



There's too many variables to say (Like the Long block isn't broken in yet, I think I am still missing one or two MPH after 45 mph for lack of fuel pressure.) IF the Indmar exhaust is faster but, I think it IS louder AND just might be a little quicker outta the hole but, no proof there.

I'll say everything I got after 41 mph was all due to Full speed advance dial in.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2019 at 2:42am
Put a 2 speed dual fan Red Dot Heater in the 2001 (Really HOT),
FYI everyone; fits nice and flush in the high side of the driver's Toe board (Away from damage), just to the right of the Fire extinguisher!

New problems and questions;
The Spyder's a no run situation
Cause, of the DISTRIBUTOR LH MBI MALLORY Unilite Module.
Heads Up! The Mallory Unilite Module is sensitive to voltage spikes. Really?!! Go figure!
So, I blew $121.00 plus tax for a replacement for
Unilite Module C.A.R.B. E.O. D-70-9 (27/02/12)
2/27/2012? I guess that means it's too old also, right?
I'm buying the Isolators too for $70.00 x 2
All For a $650.00 Distributor x 2
I figure, I'm paying for the configurable attributes and not reliability?!! Right?

Still have the Ski Nautique 2001 and I am working this problem and fuel consumption;
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=14512&title=total-timing-351w

Running same as Spyder's Mallory but, opposite rotation Distributor on the 2001 with different issues; Timing Curve and I think the total advance (What ever it is set at) is too much cause, I got a High Speed Kick back, Carburetor Pop or spit on Lake Washington today. Scary! Hope I didn't damage my better Holley.

There's a Mallory 24 degree total Timing set Key but, I'll guess cause, I don't have one.

Anyways, The 2001 situation is; when dialed in for High Speed, at idle I get a Thud Thud Thud… and when I dial the timing in for low speed, I get the Carburetor pop at High Speed.
Soooooooo, when timing set correctly, pulls really really nice outta the hole, Top speed is fair at 45 Mph (I think she's still sand bagging me) but, Thud Thud Thud… at low speed in gear. Fuel consumption seems ok, at about 3.6 mpg at 20mph figured by Full tank From Kenmore Boat Ramp to The shallow marker in Juanita Beach, shut down for an hour, Continued to Moss bay and ended up at Caroline point Gas dock, filled up with 3 gallons in about 11 miles. And for the return trip 5 gallons with four short WOT tests. Return trip; From Gas dock Ran along 520 Heading west, Right turn North passed Kurt and Courtney Love's old place, to Nordstrom's Members Dock, back South to 520 and North past Sand point Boat Ramp, back over to the East side (Juanita Beach point), straight back to Kenmore Sammamish Slough, with one last High Speed Turn from the Slough, West along the Kenmore Water ski course heading south and back heading east to the Kenmore Slough boat ramp again or 8 gallons total for 3 hours total run time and about 27 miles (Filled up at Home 5 gallons).

Question; For Fuel Consumption; That's about right, Right?

I've become accustom to 3 mpg for small Blocks Chevs up to 21 feet and then mpg falls off sharply there after 19 feet toward 1 mpg for 23 feet is the worst I've seen
(Doesn't really change too much for speed).
Someone somewhere said; 10 mpg?!! I'm not seeing how this is possible.

Also, Thank you for recommending to keep the Boat STOCK, she's got a nice FORD sound kinda sorta a Big block exhaust note, a little loud and over all BEAUTIFUL!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2019 at 9:17am
It's either a Unilite or a MBI(magnetic breakerless ignition) but not both, so you have a Unilite obviously.

You also have a lighter wallet than you really needed to have, because you could have bought a Mallory E Spark module which only costs about 1/2 of the Unilite.

According to Mallory the only difference is that the Unilite was put together by humans and the E Spark was done by automated machines.

Being naturally cheap, I like the E Spark myself

And speaking of 24 degree keys, the width of one of those is 0.22 inches, so I'd start with that measurement for your advance limiter setting

I think your fuel consumption numbers sound OK.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2019 at 1:40pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

It's either a Unilite or a MBI(magnetic breakerless ignition) but not both, so you have a Unilite obviously.

You also have a lighter wallet than you really needed to have, because you could have bought a Mallory E Spark module which only costs about 1/2 of the Unilite.

According to Mallory the only difference is that the Unilite was put together by humans and the E Spark was done by automated machines.

Being naturally cheap, I like the E Spark myself

And speaking of 24 degree keys, the width of one of those is 0.22 inches, so I'd start with that measurement for your advance limiter setting

I think your fuel consumption numbers sound OK.


   In my defense;
Would have made things a lot easier using two of the three other stock FORD points distributors (One right hand) I have laying around here but, they are so rusty...
Must be the Seattle, Washington Air.
So, I just tossed on (as set) this USED Mallory, The Best I have.
The previous owner must have molested this one for over 30 degrees advance,
go figure

Yes, Unilite
Ooooppss!
Copy that, very nice Key Dimension (7/32 Drill), Very nice Advance curve too (Most Excellent hole shot) and Thank you!      
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-25-2019 at 7:51pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

It's either a Unilite or a MBI(magnetic breakerless ignition) but not both, so you have a Unilite obviously.

You also have a lighter wallet than you really needed to have, because you could have bought a Mallory E Spark module which only costs about 1/2 of the Unilite.

According to Mallory the only difference is that the Unilite was put together by humans and the E Spark was done by automated machines.

Being naturally cheap, I like the E Spark myself

And speaking of 24 degree keys, the width of one of those is 0.22 inches, so I'd start with that measurement for your advance limiter setting

I think your fuel consumption numbers sound OK.




Ok, Using your Numbers and Thank you very much, Grand Poo Bah!
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=14512&title=total-timing-351w

Today,
I got the number I was actually looking for with a 454, and that number is 46 with a SBF!
Still starving a little for fuel on the Top end, might get 46.5 mph when that is remedied.


So, to all, if ya wanna get your boat to run right;
I would recommend anyone to use Grand Poo Bah's ignition Numbers here but, I would consult again for the GT40 and... higher performance engine numbers.




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