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1980 Ski Nautique Long Awaited Restoration

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    Posted: January-29-2019 at 1:27am
Good afternoon to the Correct Craft Fan world! I am about to embark on a long overdue journey on a 1980 Ski Nautique. I purchased this boat about 16 years ago with the intentions of using it as long as I could and then restoring it. I loaded the boat on its' trailer for the last time back in 2009 due to the concern for my family's safety with the boat's deteriorating stringers and floor. So, now after 10 years of just setting, I have finally decided to start on the restoration of what my wife and kids refer to as the "mythical creature" in the shed in the back yard.

Now, this is something I have been planning to do for many years and have probably read every stringer restoration post on this site, twice! I look forward to starting this project and bringing this classic back to life. I also look forward to sharing my build with you all on the site, as well as, hearing and learning from the many Correct Craft veterans on the site.

My plans are not to go back completely original but keep it somewhat close. As you can see below in the pics, someone in the past decided to repaint the stripes and letters with these terrible colors. I believe that I'm the third owner. I do know that the original color was the maroonish color but I haven't decided what color I'm going back with and this is for further on in the rebuild. I will be replacing the stringers using Douglas Fir and as of now plan to re-foam. After the many years of researching this site, I have discovered many issues that need to be addressed throughout the rebuild and plan to address them.

I know you all love pictures and plan to post as I work. I also know that this process will be a long one and difficult one as well.





Now, don't go bashing me just yet on things like the carb and fuel line on the engine. I plan to address all issues on the engine to meet all marine certifications when the time comes to set the engine back in the boat.

Thanks in advance for all your help!
Jason Murray

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rolleronariver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-31-2019 at 4:56pm
Looks like a fun project. Especially if you can get your family involved in it too. Take your time and enjoy it. We still have a few months left before season starts getting good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 80tiquefan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2019 at 10:38pm
Well, Arkansas weather is very unpredictable this time of year. One day, the temp will be in the 60's and the next below freezing. I have proceeded just a bit on the restoration during my free time. I've got all the hoses, steering cable, throttle cables, and wiring harness removed along with the carpet. Hopefully I'll get to cut the floor out this weekend if the weather cooperates.



As you can see in the pics, the secondary stringers have de-laminated and at one time one of the previous owners attempted to just patch it up. No wood work just what looks like marine bondo. The rear main stringers sound pretty solid. The front mains are pretty rotten though. The floor has also separated from the hull on the port side in a section about four feet long.


When I removed the lag bolts in the engine cradle, it appeared to be sprung. I'd say it'll be difficult to rely on this for a measuring point. Just wondering if anyone else had an engine cradle that was sprung?


When removing the carpet on the port side, I noticed this. Does anyone know what this is utilized for? Looks like something was to be mounted here.


Got the Douglas Fir purchased for the mains. 2x12x22' was the shortest pieces I could find in the area. So, I've got plenty to work with.

Working on my supply order for US Composites. I'll post it shortly and see what y'all think.
Jason Murray

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote beardo73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-18-2019 at 5:46pm
Nice. Following this one. Neat project! Good luck.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-19-2019 at 4:26am
Glad you have started, I hope it goes smoothly. Get it done fast you will be shocked how soon the kids move on with their own lives. Got to enjoy the boat and build those memories now.
Mark
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shierh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-19-2019 at 5:28pm
may be cool to flip it over on the trailer after stringers are done, strip off the stripes and letters and polish the whole thing then get vinyl stripes and letters.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 80tiquefan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2019 at 12:14am
My plan is to most definitely wet sand and polish the hull with the hopes of bringing back that gelcoat shine. Does anyone know if there is a paint stripper for removing the painted on stripes out there that is safe for the gelcoat?
Jason Murray

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 80tiquefan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-28-2019 at 10:24pm
My plan is to do all my grinding outside where there's more air flow. While waiting on the weather to clear up some so I can begin cutting and grinding (hopefully this weekend), I decided to get my US Composites order compiled and ordered. Can some of you veterans take a look at my material list and see if I forgetting anything. I'm still tossing around the foam/no foam subject. Not sure which direction I'm gonna go just yet.

Jason Murray

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samudj01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-01-2019 at 12:14am
We used a little less than 8 gal epoxy from us comp on a tique including making cpes. With a 10 gal order you may have enough and not need the cpes. Or you could order an extra gal of epoxy and no cpes and still save money.

I don’t think I saw rollers etc. I assume you are getting them elsewhere along with other supplies. The biax tape may be overkill. You have tape and then have enough biax to go over. Not sure about the biax tape. May be a different use.   My quick thoughts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-01-2019 at 9:01am
seems you’d need to have a rebuild plan before finalizing a material list. Ribs replacing foam, ply vs glass over foam floor, etc will drive material selection and quantity significantly. 10gal epoxy probably on the light side regardless.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 80tiquefan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-10-2019 at 10:32pm
The Arkansas weather finally allowed me to get the floor and all the foam removed over the weekend. Nasty and completely saturated with water. After inspection, I believe that I should be able to remove the mains in one piece, hopefully, but the secondaries are trashed.

I was wondering if any of you have considered relocating the battery? Since the battery box is a possible source for leaks, as well as, in the way of the ventilation and wiring plumbing I was thinking of maybe some sort of surface mount battery box under the bow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-11-2019 at 6:16am
Originally posted by 80tiquefan 80tiquefan wrote:

I was wondering if any of you have considered relocating the battery? Since the battery box is a possible source for leaks, as well as, in the way of the ventilation and wiring plumbing I was thinking of maybe some sort of surface mount battery box under the bow.

One of the reasons of keeping the battery close to the engine is to keep costs lower. Battery cable is expensive and as distance of cable increases, so does the need a larger gauge and more expensive cable.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2019 at 2:57pm
Originally posted by 80tiquefan 80tiquefan wrote:

   Does anyone know if there is a paint stripper for removing the painted on stripes out there that is safe for the gelcoat?


Back in the 80's I lived down the road from Correct Craft and redid a 76. Ask them how to remove old graphics and was told to use oven cleaner. Worked great...

Don't remember the brand.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2019 at 3:46pm
Originally posted by jterr jterr wrote:

Originally posted by 80tiquefan 80tiquefan wrote:

   Does anyone know if there is a paint stripper for removing the painted on stripes out there that is safe for the gelcoat?


Back in the 80's I lived down the road from Correct Craft and redid a 76. Ask them how to remove old graphics and was told to use oven cleaner. Worked great...

Don't remember the brand.


Easy Off Oven Cleaner is one brand that for a long long time has been used for just this purpose.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ultrarunner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2019 at 10:44pm
Could be a good project for a non-skid fiberglass floor and use a snap-in/snap-out carpet. Like a ‘modern’ boat ;-)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canuck-Surfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2020 at 5:26am
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Originally posted by jterr jterr wrote:

Originally posted by 80tiquefan 80tiquefan wrote:

   Does anyone know if there is a paint stripper for removing the painted on stripes out there that is safe for the gelcoat?


Back in the 80's I lived down the road from Correct Craft and redid a 76. Ask them how to remove old graphics and was told to use oven cleaner. Worked great...

Don't remember the brand.


Easy Off Oven Cleaner is one brand that for a long long time has been used for just this purpose.


How exactly do you use the over cleaner? Spray it on top of the graphic or start pulling and spray it under as it peels?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2020 at 8:26am
Since I'm in the quote above, I used it like a spray on paint stripper to get paint off of fiberglass.

It sounds like you want to use it on decals, I'd probably use heat to soften the decals and remove them, then use the EZ Off or some other more "gentle"residue remover to get rid of the leftover adhesive.

Lots of different variations on how people remove vinyl decals, stripes etc   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67 ski nat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2020 at 11:04am
Perfect project just in time. Gonna follow your hobby here thanks for sharing ENJOY
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2020 at 11:41am
Hi Jason,
Looks like a great project. Relative to the graphics, if they are vinyl just use a heat gun or hair blow-dryer to slightly soften them up and remove them. You can remove any remaining glue with a rag dampened with a bit of xylol or xylene, whichever is the name that is in vogue these days. If the graphics are in fact paint, yes you can use Easy-Off oven cleaner. I recomend masking the area directly below the graphic with plastic because the cleaner/removed paint concoction will obviously run down the sides and have a potential to stain the white below. No need to subject yourself to additional work cleaning that off. Don't attempt a large area at once, because it is a mistake to let the cleaner dry, You will likely need to work each area several times. Expect ghosting after removal, whether it was vinyl or paint. I recommend having a plan in place for reinstalling the graphic before removal, i.e., a charcoal rubbing of the existing graphic on butcher paper or a conversation with a sign shop if vinyl. Cheers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 80tiquefan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2020 at 9:05pm
Thanks for the replies guys. I have had to put this restoration on the back-burner for a bit. Had some other obligations come up. I also recently purchased a 1993 Sport Nautique from the original owner that is in what I would consider showroom condition. I still plan to restore the 1980 as it was my first Ski Nautique and I love the original graphics and the sound of these boats. The graphics currently on the boat that I'm wanting to remove were painted on by the previous owner.
Jason Murray

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2020 at 10:46pm
On another brand boat I have someone had painted it as well. I bought some paint stripper that was advertised as safe for fiberglass and used on Corvettes. Sounded like a good idea until I tried it and found out it softened the gel as well. Makes sense realizing Corvettes don't have gel coat. What ever you try don't walk away from it as you first try it until you know what it will do. You might just have to prepare yourself to do some sanding....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2020 at 11:09pm
What Gary said, for sure. I think it is general knowledge that Correct Craft used Rust-Oleum for the graphics at the factory on this era Nautique. But you don't know what the former owner used. It could have been some sort of epoxy or other type of catalyzed product. And without further investigation, you won't know if the original paint was painted over or removed first. If it is simply Rust-Oleum, you may even be able to use a hot thiner and some strong elbow grease to get it off, however, if it looks good and you have confidence in the current adhesion, you might consider sealing what is there with a quality intermediate sealer/primer and then add you color of choice on what is already there, even if you need to make a few repairs to some of it beforehand.

It is almost April, so I think you made a good choice on purchasing a new whip for the summer. This one can wait until fall. Too many good days with family and friends to be had during the upcoming lake days to enjoy without the added pressure of undertaking a project of this size right now. Especially if you have kids, they are only kids for so long.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 91NaughtyQ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-06-2020 at 7:44pm
Keno
I just received my new hull decals.    How much heat is needed?   With the heat gun I am assuming "keep it moving" but not sure how close I can safely get..... also any quick tips on taking care of any ghost lettering if any. I wetsanded and restored gel a few years ago and 91 OEM DECALS aren't available.   These are supposed to be the same size just not the fade through.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2020 at 8:07am
Originally posted by 91NaughtyQ 91NaughtyQ wrote:

Keno
I just received my new hull decals.    How much heat is needed?   With the heat gun I am assuming "keep it moving" but not sure how close I can safely get..... also any quick tips on taking care of any ghost lettering if any. I wetsanded and restored gel a few years ago and 91 OEM DECALS aren't available.   These are supposed to be the same size just not the fade through.

Gary


I think Watauga'a quote down below pretty much explains things.

Heat from a hair dryer should be plenty, no heat guns needed Close enough to soften the decal without making it too easy to tear

Plenty of people besides me should be telling you what they did for getting rid of ghosting   

Originally posted by Watauga Watauga wrote:

Hi Jason,
Looks like a great project. Relative to the graphics, if they are vinyl just use a heat gun or hair blow-dryer to slightly soften them up and remove them. You can remove any remaining glue with a rag dampened with a bit of xylol or xylene, whichever is the name that is in vogue these days. If the graphics are in fact paint, yes you can use Easy-Off oven cleaner. I recomend masking the area directly below the graphic with plastic because the cleaner/removed paint concoction will obviously run down the sides and have a potential to stain the white below. No need to subject yourself to additional work cleaning that off. Don't attempt a large area at once, because it is a mistake to let the cleaner dry, You will likely need to work each area several times. Expect ghosting after removal, whether it was vinyl or paint. I recommend having a plan in place for reinstalling the graphic before removal, i.e., a charcoal rubbing of the existing graphic on butcher paper or a conversation with a sign shop if vinyl. Cheers.


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