Low voltage at coil

So I have a 1985 ski supreme that has the standard 240hp pcm351 in it. Now I had running on the water and ran great got back to the dock and was letting it idle and then proceeds to turn off as it ran out of gas. Get it back and start to do some investigating. Checked for spark and got spark but just weak spark. So check the voltage at the coil. 4.25v go back to the resistor and on the low side get ~5v then check the high side and get 9.7v. Now after some digging around on the forums I see these are on the lowers side of where the voltage should be. So decide I should work back and see where the draw is coming from... well check the voltage at the starter solinoid. 12.75v full battery voltage. Move to the 40amp push breaker 12.75v. Go to the two leads at the electric choke and get 9.7v. Now that is where I got hung up. There is something drawing the power before it gets to the choke. Here is where it get a little odd and maybe someone could help with this side. Crawl under the dash and start testing away. So from the fuse holder, 11.6v move to the amp meter as I notice a few power wires over there and test from fuse holder ground to positive post of amp meter and get 11.7v and on the negative side of the meter I get 11.6v. I’m assuming that is ok. Next move to the ignition switch and 10.8v. I will attach some photos of the wiring. Maybe something looks off. During my investigating, I unwrapped a pink or what should be red wire that was spliced into the charge wire coming from the alternator going to the harness plug. This was how I received it from the previous owner,,, but have to assume it would have a home just not sure where. there is a photo of the wire in here too. I also found that wire to be hot but it touching the manifold and getting a spark. when testing from ground to the mystery wire i get 12.75 battery voltage.

Did you ever check the points or electronic module, rotor, cap,condenser?

Your problem could be there since the boat was running with the voltages you measured right up till it quit.

So the engine, does have some points in the despributor. And I had cleaned and checked the gap on the points. When I first cleaned them they were a bit dusty, but didn’t see any burn or arc makes on them so they visually seem to check out. Now I did put a newer coil and ballast resistor, and a condenser inside the distributor. And that’s when she came to life. As to plug at the back of the engine, I did have it disconnected and doesn’t appear to be to corrode. But nothing can ever be too clean! As for the orange wire. I belive you are correct about it being orange rather than red.
It is it is spliced off the orange wire off the charge post of the altenator. Now there is a purple wire coming from the 8 pin plug going to a splice of green wire to the regulator and red wire which goes to the electric choke. I’m getting some signal out of the ammeter. But as you can see the brass is not as shinny as it once was.. I is possible that that could cause a the drop. I will see if I can pull them off and see if I can clean and check to see if it makes a difference! Could a bad altenator cause it drop like that?

And again KENO comes to the rescue. He performs an autopsy on a perfectly good motor.. Thanks Ken.
Your a true asset to CCF

Well said Duane. KENO this isn't the first time I have seen you coming in with all the invaluable data. Thank you for the info it is a huge help. Im hoping to look for the points and distributor a little closer. I must have over looked some key details. I will report back with findings!

KENO wrote: Duane in Indy wrote: And again KENO comes to the rescue. He performs an autopsy on a perfectly good motor.. Thanks Ken. Your a true asset to CCF Aw shucks Duane It was pretty easy to check and give him some numbers and besides I got to look at the points, rotor and cap. The coil being grounded or ungrounded by the points in his case makes quite a difference in voltage readings Besides, if Pete was to have tried this, he'd pop the distributor cap on the Tique and find that electronic conversion that it took him 11 years to discover he had

I figured out that I was wrong about Pete taking 11 years based on the comment below from 2009 post I stumbled across

8122pbrainard wrote: Well if it was my boat, I'd put the point set back in!! Ether that or replace the entire distributor with a EI. My Tique came with a EI conversion and I'm afraid to even look under the cap to see what brand it is. So far it's still running but I do have my fingers crossed!!

He knew it had an electronic conversion all that time but was afraid to look under the cap. Maybe after 11 years he got brave or thought it might have an issue.and had to look

Good maintenance practices Pete

Can always count on you Gary

Skier85 wrote: [QUOTE=KENO] And another thing............about the time you're convinced it's electrical maybe it'll turn out to be fuel related.

KENO you are truly might be the troubleshooting guru! I pull the spark arrestor off the carb after a few cranks only to find the primary boosters pouring fuel into the engine with the engine still. looks like its time for a rebuild. I have to imagine over fueled engines don't like to start well./QUOTE]

The guy's good. Plus he will take his stuff apart to prove it!!

Hi John

A while back I found a spring that works pretty well to replace your broken small spring.

Most hardware stores should have it.

It's a Hillman #119 spring.

See the picture below. It's a little different than the original but definitely better than a twisted stretched old one, or in your case none at all

In the same clip down distributor that you have it gave a pretty decent advance curve.when used in conjunction with your original big heavy spring.

It won't break the bank, it cost about a dollar, so it's worth a try. Buy a few in case you mess up a spring or two..

They're a general purpose spring so I figure the quality control isn't the highest because you can find them with the loops on each end parallel to each other or at around 90 degrees to each other. Get the ones that are parallel, you may have to weed through a bunch but it'll make life easier than having to put a little twist into it to make them parallel.

Some may call it a hack job, but it works and will keep your timing the way it should be.