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Boat Overheating - '94 Sport Nautique

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Payton91 View Drop Down
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    Posted: June-03-2018 at 9:48pm
Hi Guys,

I changed and the water impeller and cleaned the water strainer before firing the boat up with a fake-a-lake and let it idle for about 5-10min before the overheating light came on and the boat shut off.. Temp was no higher than 160 on the gauge. I let it cool down for 30min and now the boat dies around 140F with the overheating light coming on. I'm not sure what to do.

I took out the thermostat and tested it in a pot of water - seem to open around 150F and be fully open at 160F which I believe is in line with needing to have the 160 T-stat on the TBI motor. I plan on putting a new one in anyway.

I checked to make sure the impeller was installed correctly and also made sure the strainer is installed correctly and both check out. I read that I could have an air leak but I see no signs.

it seems to be pumping plenty of water still. Maybe I need to replace the temp gauge? I'm trying to diagnose.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2018 at 9:59pm
Payton,
Before you condemn the sensor, I suggest using an IR temperature gun to check exactly what the temp is. Aim it next to the sensor. Also, for checking proper cooling, I suggest getting it off the garden hose. The pressure from the hose will give you false results. Stick the suction hose in a bucket of water instead and use the garden hose to fill the bucket. Also, you may be sucking air but a water leak won't show up even with the engine shut down. Double check all your hose connections and the gasket on the sea strainer.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2018 at 10:15pm
One thing you should know is that there is no hi temperature shutdown associated with your ProTec TBI system.

If the high temperature switch is activated the engine will go into "Limp Mode" and be limited to a max of about 2500 rpm, so if your engine is shutting off, it's for some other reason.

Low oil pressure will also put it in "Limp Mode" but there is nothing that will automatically shut the engine down

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2018 at 10:28pm
Here's a link to a 93 manual from the reference section with ProTec info in it.

Your 94 Pro Tec system is the same as the 93

link
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Payton91 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2018 at 11:06pm
I will get the IR gun and make the bucket device next weekend. Was hoping to take the boat out!! If the temp gauge appears to be working on the dash I assume the sender is working properly, Doesn't it have to be air sucking in causing the temp switch to trip or a bad switch? It is a hot day here (90F) also so maybe the air temp is contributing?

Let me know if I have the sensors wrong:
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Payton91 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2018 at 11:09pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

One thing you should know is that there is no hi temperature shutdown associated with your ProTec TBI system.

If the high temperature switch is activated the engine will go into "Limp Mode" and be limited to a max of about 2500 rpm, so if your engine is shutting off, it's for some other reason.

Low oil pressure will also put it in "Limp Mode" but there is nothing that will automatically shut the engine down



I observed the light go on and the boat quit at the same time more than once. I should add that it has plenty of fuel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-04-2018 at 12:10am
Originally posted by Payton91 Payton91 wrote:

Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

One thing you should know is that there is no hi temperature shutdown associated with your ProTec TBI system.

If the high temperature switch is activated the engine will go into "Limp Mode" and be limited to a max of about 2500 rpm, so if your engine is shutting off, it's for some other reason.

Low oil pressure will also put it in "Limp Mode" but there is nothing that will automatically shut the engine down



I observed the light go on and the boat quit at the same time more than once. I should add that it has plenty of fuel.


Well have it your way then

Read the manual I linked and do some searches here on CCF.

There aren't any automatic shutdowns
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-04-2018 at 12:21am
You have the switch and sender labeled right.

Disconnect the temp switch and it won't go into "limp mode" or cause anything else to happen.

Maybe in the last 24 years somebody did some "creative wiring"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimsport93 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-04-2018 at 10:49am
Sounds to me that you are getting a hot signal from the temp sensor (top of the block-starboard side) or an low oil signal from the oil pressure sender (port side low by the fuel pump).
The Protec would go to limp mode when the boat is running and limit your RPM below 2000.
There are two oil related sensors. One for pressure and one tied to the ProTec. They are in tandem. Look at the oil pressure sender (not the oil switch).
So, I would check the oil pressure sender.
Just had an issue with my 93, carbed, ProBoss. Was going into limp mode. Changed the oil switch (ProTec) and the water switch (ProTec) and new plug wires. Solved my problem.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Payton91 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-04-2018 at 1:47pm
Thanks for the help everyone. I will be purchasing some new components and troubleshooting stuff.

I am still looking for a theory on why the motor stalls.. I will connect the raw water hose directly to a bucket and let idle with an IR gun pointed near the temp sensors. Hopefully I can confirm the temp stabilizes and the temp sender/gauge is reporting the right value. If all is good but it does stall and/or the limp mode light comes on - I'll try to maintain idle again after disconnecting the temp and oil switch.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-04-2018 at 1:55pm
Payton,
Just a thought here regarding the engine shutting down when it is possibly going into limb mode. How does the engine run at lower RPM's? If real bad, could it be dying when ether the oil or temp switch put's it into limp?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-04-2018 at 2:15pm
First of all 160 is far from overheating.

It is my understanding "limb" or "limp" mode limits RPM to 2000.

If you are already idling (presumably below 2000 RPM) lump mode will not affect engine RPM.

Something seems very off if the temp gauge shows 160, or even below, but the temp alarm light is also on. Is the light triggered by the ProTec switch/circuit and not part of the gauge? That would make sense as jimpsport has mentioned.

There is still no reasonable explanation for the engine dying.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Payton91 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-04-2018 at 2:26pm
No doubt about it - the limp mode light comes on and the engine stalls. I need to fire up the boat again once my troubleshooting and new thermostat parts come in to really confirm they occur the same time.

Little more background:
I replaced the water impeller and cleaned the water strainer then went to warm up the boat before pumping out the transmission fluid. The boat was idling very nice at about 900 RPM with water coming out the exhaust with a consistent frequency every ~7 seconds, and the temp gauge reported 160F -- then, after 5-10min, I saw the limp mode light on and the motor stalled.

I finished the oil change and fired up the boat - a lot of water blasted out of the exhaust (curious, thought I'd add) and now the boat stalls before reaching 160F on the gauge and I've seen the limp mode light on. I checked the strainer and impeller install and let the boat cool all the way down for hours and similar result - boat idled at 900rpm, water out the exhaust, but light on and stall before reaching 160F. Could this all be related to just having ***************ty water circulation because of the fake a lake?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimsport93 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-04-2018 at 2:40pm
The red indicator light in the middle of the dash is a warning light for overheating or low oil pressure. Not related to the ProTec.
You do have oil in it right?
The ProTec will go into limp mode over 2000-2500 RPM......it does not light up the warning light on the dash.
Should not be showing “overheating” at 160 degrees.
That is why I suggested the oil pressure sending unit.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Payton91 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-04-2018 at 3:04pm
Originally posted by jimsport93 jimsport93 wrote:

The red indicator light in the middle of the dash is a warning light for overheating or low oil pressure. Not related to the ProTec.
You do have oil in it right?
The ProTec will go into limp mode over 2000-2500 RPM......it does not light up the warning light on the dash.
Should not be showing “overheating” at 160 degrees.
That is why I suggested the oil pressure sending unit.


For the motor, I put about 4.25 quarts of VR1 20W-50 in the boat and the dipstick shows the level half-way between the add and full mark. I need to fire it up again to confirm gauge pressure when idling but I recall 40psi or greater from the previous runs and it shot up higher (~60psi) when first fired up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-04-2018 at 3:10pm
I might have a theory for ya

We'll start out by saying again that there are no automatic shutdowns.

And we'll say that the light on the dash gets input from 2 places to turn it on.

One place is coolant temperature and the other is oil pressure. Either low oil pressure or high coolant temperature turns that light on when the ignition is in the Run position.

And we'll say you did a good job on the impeller and you have no cooling issues

So you're sitting there idling the engine for quite a while and it suddenly quits and your red light is on at the same time.

This is because the key is still in Run and you have low/no oil pressure real quick since the engine just stopped spinning. (Ignition loss for whatever reason till the low oil pressure setpoint is reached is well under 1 second when the engine is idling at 6 or 7 hundred RPM. Or in other words for all practical purposes they happen at the same time.

You then turn the key OFF and the light goes off because you took away power to that circuitry

Then you do it all over again only it happens at a different temperature, but why?.

I think it's shutting down for some unknown reason right now, after all it is a Pro Tec system and you said something in another thread about "how great your Pro Tec system
was running"
You cursed your engine when you said that

Maybe you can sit there and see the light come on for a few seconds before the engine turns off or maybe it's simultaneous like I mentioned above, only you know that answer right now.

You can sit there with it idling and turn the key to OFF and easily see how quickly the engine stops(and the oil pump stops too). You won't get the red light doing this though because you took the key to OFF

Maybe I'm out to lunch (well I am headed to Taco Bell as soon as I'm done typing) but remember there are no automatic shutdowns unless you have some really screwed up rewiring by somebody
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimsport93 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-04-2018 at 3:11pm
I put 5 quarts of oil in mine. As per the owners manual. Registers full on the dipstick.
Suggest you get the oil full and see what happens.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-04-2018 at 3:34pm
I was thinking something very similar to what Keno just said. It's likely not the overheat causing the shutdown. The only way that could happen is if the engine overheated so badly it collapsed the exhaust tubing/hose.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rolleronariver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-04-2018 at 6:27pm
Is it possible that this is a voltage problem. I know at one point when I would turn the lights on in my boat the temp gauge would jump to 190 and when I'd turn it off it would go back to 145-150. I also know that bad voltage could cause the protech to fail as well. Is it possible that a bad ground or something of the sort could be causing these issues including the warning lights?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Payton91 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-04-2018 at 6:30pm
Damn - time to start a new thread.. I believe the light always came on after it died which would make sense.. So now I have a boat that stalls randomly. Also, the boat sometimes doesn't start well when cold only.. Should I just put new plugs in and wires or get the entire carb/distrubuter kit from Skidim. I want a reliable boat..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rolleronariver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-04-2018 at 6:33pm
I hear a lot of guys talking about how bad the protech is...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-04-2018 at 7:29pm
Pro Tec is sensitive to bad (loose/corroded) wiring, just like any other piece of electronic equipment.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-05-2018 at 1:46am
Random stalls and intermittent starting/stopping sounds like Pro-Tech failure to me...

(That's what mine did before it completely died)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-05-2018 at 9:35am
What I get out of this thread and your bow eye thread is that you just got the boat, maybe complete with some Pro Tec issues as an added bonus but it ran good out on the water and you were already aware of the Pro Tec reputation

It sounds like you were changing the impeller because you wanted to, not because it ever overheated. and then the stalling issues came up while idling on the trailer

I'd put it back together with your original thermostat and run it. Bring friends and paddles or another boat to tag along just in case

You mentioned cold start issues and wanting to change plugs etc. The plugs are cheap, wires not so cheap. See what the plugs look like, they may tell you something or they may look real good. What are the cold start issues?

And Hollywood mentioned checking wiring connections as a good thing to do.

Is your alternator putting out a good 13.5 to 14 volts or so while it's idling on the hose?
Low voltage/bad connections can do funny things like make your engine just shutdown.

So.........don't give up on the Pro Tec quite yet, run it , get some info and then decide what to do.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Payton91 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-06-2018 at 4:09pm
Guys, I did check the plugs before pulling the trigger on carb, distributor, 1" hoses, 143 thermostat, belt kit from Skidim    but they were a perfect light tan color and the wires appeared in good shape. I did not check the fuel injectors. This will be good, I'll get to learn how the boat works and I need to get proper tools to have around the house anyway. I don't want to drive 4hrs to a lake and have the boat crap out.

- cold start issues means it took up to 10seconds of cranking to start.
- when I had it in the water it started actually quite easily and never gave me any problems.

I'll check the alternator.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rolleronariver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-06-2018 at 4:16pm
It shouldn't take 10 seconds to start. I can pump the throttle twice when mine is cold and it fires up and purs like a kitten and it's carburated. After that initial start it fires up just turning the key for the rest of the day.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Payton91 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-08-2018 at 11:55pm
I made the bucket lake, put new spark plugs in, and put the old thermostat back in. Boat ran absolutely fine. Started cold in about 3 seconds and instantly when warm. Ran for 15min no problem.



Temps at switch.


Battery voltage while running 13.95V
Oil pressure on gauge when hot: 53 psi
Temp on gauge when hot: 160F
Idled at about 900RPM

So WTF??

I am thinking:

1. it was scorching hot outside last weekend so that may have had an effect
2. this one scares me, I did run the fake-a-lake with the water on for a bit while my boat wasn't running - does this cause water to fill up and enter through the exhaust? My oil seems ok but should I drain it just in case?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2018 at 12:28am
Originally posted by Payton91 Payton91 wrote:

I made the bucket lake, put new spark plugs in, and put the old thermostat back in. Boat ran absolutely fine. Started cold in about 3 seconds and instantly when warm. Ran for 15min no problem.



Temps at switch.


Battery voltage while running 13.95V
Oil pressure on gauge when hot: 53 psi
Temp on gauge when hot: 160F
Idled at about 900RPM

So WTF??

I am thinking:

1. it was scorching hot outside last weekend so that may have had an effect
2. this one scares me, I did run the fake-a-lake with the water on for a bit while my boat wasn't running - does this cause water to fill up and enter through the exhaust? My oil seems ok but should I drain it just in case?


Don't worry about #2 above, it won't happen

You said your oil looks OK, if there was water in it, it would be a gooey, coffee with cream looking mess.

Now take the boat out for the weekend and have some fun
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2018 at 1:00am
#1 won't happen either
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CCF Excorcism complete!
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