Damper Plate

You must be lookin' in all the wrong places

Try this link and you'll have a nickel left over from your hundred   

You'll save some money with the one Duane linked, but you'll expend some time and labor trimming the ears down to the right size.

That's up to you.whether you want the pre trimmed version or you want to do it yourself

Duane in Indy wrote: Yes, I trimmed mine but don't remember whether I had to or just wanted to. Starter gear come in on opposite side. Maybe it was gonna hit the bell housing Took 1 minute on belt sander. Guess you could hack saw it off also.

You had to

It would hit the bellhousing if you didn't

By the way,I hear you're pretty good with metal work   

8122pbrainard wrote: Duane, "1 minute" on the sander? What grit did you have on it? 24?

36 grit belt.   10" X 48" belt, 5hp 440v 3ph
No hobby shop stuff here

Duane in Indy wrote:    5hp 440v 3ph

Duane,
Do you have the taps on your rotary set to 440 for the old 50's motors?

Duane in Indy wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: Duane in Indy wrote:    5hp 440v 3ph    Duane, Do you have the taps on your rotary set to 440 for the old 50's motors? Pete,   Actually have 2 separate 3 ph breaker panels. First one is 220 3 ph straight out of the rotary converter Second panel is 440 3ph and it comes off of a step up transformer (220 - 440) Really simple setup

So the rotary is tapped for 220 then for your older motors.

Did the poor guy that started this post about the damper plate ever get his answer??
Sorry bout this

Duane in Indy wrote: Did the poor guy that started this post about the damper plate ever get his answer?? Sorry bout this

Not only did I get my answer (thanks everyone!), But now I am learning about 3 phase 440 wiring. That is one of the things I love about CCfan, it's not the destination, its the journey!

Pete, how much gets trimed off? Is there any concern about balance, or if they are within a 1/8th inch of each other are they fine? I would likely start with a metal cutting wheel on an angle grinder and clean up from there.

Thanks Pete

Based on the half hole visible it appears the $99 version is just a cut down $75 plate. I can easily cut it down very near perfect myself, so long as I cant hurt anything.

Plate is ordered, Now I need to order some warm weather. We typically average 3" of snow in April. We are over 24" this year and more forecast for tomorrow. Yuck!

The boat is still snug in its winter bed. I hope it is a one day job once we get started. Some 60 degree weather might motivate us. Until then there are other priorities. I have had the transmission off before, It was not too difficult, but it was outside of the boat at the time.

OverMyHead wrote: Part is here, Is there a concise set of step by step instructions on this site or elsewhere?

Once you get it trimmed to fit then you need to bolt it down to the flywheel.   There should be a side marked "FLYWHEEL SIDE"   Make sure you get it right.   Oh, and don't over tighten the bolts and break any off. Locktite the bolts if you want.   Small amount of grease or Never Seize on the spline.

Here's a set of instructions for ya

Remove the motor box and the rear floor piece

Disconnect the battery

Remove the starter

Remove the wires from the Neutral Safety Switch

Disconnect the shift and throttle cables

Unbolt the coupling and slide the shaft back as far as it will go

Unhook the water hoses from the transmission cooler, leave the oil lines hooked up and unbolt the cooler bracket from the bellhousing. The cooler will stay with the transmission.

Loosen the pinch bolts on the front motor mounts so the engine can pivot on the mounts. Make sure the bolt is loose and not still tight when the nut is backed off.

Leave the rear mounts hooked to the transmission and remove the mounting fasteners from the stringer/cradle. It's a little heavier this way but it's easier to wrestle the transmission around with the mounts on it.

Unhook the exhaust hoses wherever it's the easiest for you..Depending on the hoses it might be easier for you to remove them as the engine is being raised

Raise the rear of the engine with a bottle jack under an exhaust manifold or use a hoist or whatever other lifting means you have till the engine is about level and block it so it can't fall and ruin your day.

Unbolt the transmission from the bellhousing. You probably have 2 bolts and 4 studs holding it on. Slide it backwards till it;s off the studs and set it on a piece of plywood where the rear floor panel was. To me it's easier this way than taking the bellhousing off at the same time

Now unbolt and remove the bellhousing, don't forget the little bolts holding the splash shield to the bellhousing

Unbolt the old damper

Bolt the new one on

Some people will tell you to tighten the bolts now, some will work thru the starter hole with a crow's foot, u joints etc to tighten them after the transmission is installed and some drill a hole in the bellhousing to tighten the bolts after the transmission is installed. It's your call here on what you want to do.

Grease up the female splines

Bolt the bellhousing and splash shield back on. Some people bolt the bellhousing to the transmission and install the whole thing at once but it's a whole lot easier to wrestle the 125 or so pounds into place when you can slide the transmission on the 4 studs to get the shaft into the splines.

Slide the transmission into place (sounds so easy but you may have to rotate the shaft some to get the splines lined up along with a little lifting. That's why sliding it on the 4 studs is easier. And if you don't have studs, then do what Duane mentioned in the previous post.

From here you're just reassembling in reverse order and if you have corrugated exhaust hoses it's easiest to hook them up again as the engine is being lowered.

And..........don't forget to check the alignment or somebody named Pete will be all over you

I figure somebody will come along and tell you how they did this or that different but this works pretty smoothly with the least amount of wrestling involved..

I'd still suck it out either while it's on the engine or while sitting on the piece of plywood on the floor. It;s the least messy and easiest way to do it. Make sure the suction piece going into the transmission is metal and long enough that you can't lose it in the transmission like some people have done

No oil side lines get undone during the process and the strainer where the return line taps in is much more trouble than it's worth to remove it. It only catches BIG chunks of stuff.