Strut Alignment Procedure

It’s not clear from your description if you’re still missing the point- it seems quite possible that you are.

Due to the give in the strut bearing, it is very easy to move the shaft (at the coupler end) around significantly. It will sag low under its own weight. You need to assess the concentricity of the shaft/log while the shaft is positioned such that it is spinning easily in the strut. If that last sentence did not make sense, read it again until you do (you wouldn’t be the first to miss this very important point). If you miss it, anything done after this point is time spent dialing in potentially massive misalignment.

When evaluating shaft to powertrain alignment, again, the shaft needs to be in the position where it spins freely. Some people like to find that spot and lock the shaft in place (with some support to prevent it from sagging). I prefer to constantly turn it by hand (spinning via the shaft itself or the coupler). If it doesn’t want to turn by hand, it is not aligned in the strut. The reason you don’t install the bolts between the faces when aligning is because it is very easy to move that shaft position to the wrong place, and the bolts just make it that much easier to keep it there. It also screws up the face to face measurement. The inner engagement on the couplers is enough to keep the faces in the ballpark as you measure.

I second the 4200...although others say you can get 5200 off with a hot wire.

I did this without the bolts, I recommend the same. I pressed the coupler together by hand, check tolerances, pulled apart the couplers, rotated the prop shaft by hand a bit, push back together and check again (I did this several times). You should get consistent readings, which confirms that everything is true (shaft etc). That's step one to make sure the shaft is straight. If you haven't done so already make sure you transferred the collar on the shaft from the old to the new so it cannot slide out of the boat if it snaps while driving.

Now for aligning the motor: I would start by concentrating on the rear mounts, make small adjustments, push the coupler together, check it, and repeat.

It's hard to tell from here, but it looks like you need to drop the back-end of the motor a bit. Start there, again small nudges check... once you get the hang of it it is not too bad.

I also agree with the others, make sure when you are pushing the coupler together that the shaft is in it's "natural" and freeist position vertically in regards to the cutlass. You should not be forcing the couplers to connect they should just slide together (while having to lift the shaft slightly to neutral).

TRBenj wrote: It’s not clear from your description if you’re still missing the point- it seems quite possible that you are. .

Yes I understand it. Throughout this entire process I thought it was strange that the video (8:30 mark) showed the alignment being checked with bolts in place. My thought was that the bolts prevent the shaft from going to its happy place. That part of the video was what I was going off, against my intuition, before you guys ripped me to shreds for testing with the feelers with the bolts tight.

I spent about 3 hours getting the strut bent and shimmed to get it to where it is. It is as close to perfect as I could get it. The shaft spins the most freely while in the center of the log. I can push it to the side or let it sag down under it's own weight, but I can feel the resistance growing as I deviate from the center of the log.   I have it supported with a wood block that I cut a V notch in, it allows me to spin the shaft freely by hand while staying concentric in the log, while preventing sag caused by shaft and coupler weight.

In my case right now the natural position of the shaft coupler is in line with the trans, meaning the bolts do not hold it from going up and down or side to side. I understand what you mean by being able force it in to place. When my old shaft and strut were bent and I unbolted the coupler, the shaft side moved over half an inch. These issues have all been addressed and remedied. I spent about 3 hours bending and shimming the strut to get it to this condition.

So is it agreed that the bolts should not even be inserted when checking the face to face alignment?

I would be interested to see someone use the hotwire method on a strut with 5200 that is recessed into the hull.

When I get home I will totally remove the bolts and see if my measurement can be duplicated.

So to raise and lower the mounts I just loosed the 15/16" lock nut and then make the adjustments via the square topped threaded rod? Then retighten the lock nut when I am done?

Duane in Indy wrote: wiscofoot wrote: . So is it agreed that the bolts should not even be inserted when checking the face to face alignment? When I get home I will totally remove the bolts and see if my measurement can be duplicated. As long as the bolts don't influence your setup then it really doesn't matter either way Proceed as you are, you are doing great

Cole,
As Duane states, the bolts can stay but, they need to be loose so you can get the feeler gauges between the flanges. I'm glad you now understand the measurements between the flanges are used to check parallelism

Sorry about the video showing the flange bolts. Understand the mini seminar was at a GL reunion and we didn't want to take Alan's boat apart hence all the props I made up!! You also may have noticed I didn't start wrenching on his engine mounts!! Keith also restricted me to 20 minutes!

BTW, speaking of GL, are you considering it? It's sure convenient for you.

I understand Pete’s point on the bolts, but highly recommend you remove them while doing the alignment.

I constantly re-confirm that the shaft is spinning freely while checking the parallelism of the faces. A few quick turns and a re-measure of the spacing will confirm that your readings are accurate (and not due to some imperfection in one of the coupler faces or radius).

I have always had to email my pics to my personal computer and upload them on this site from my PC. If there is a short cut to this method I am all ears.
While spinning the shaft and checking alignment I always put a small amount of lube on the two faces to reduce drag and help them mate consistently.   I have used WD40 it worked.
I removed my strut which was bedded with 5200 without too much issue.
I banged in some wood door wedges and they popped mine off.   
I keep a very sharp gasket scraper in my tool box for cleaning up head gasket surfaces.
It took the old 5200 right off my fiberglass quickly.
I used my wire wheel to remove the 5200 still on the strut.
I put it back on with 5200 because I did not see the big deal cleaning it off.
Like you I had to work to get the strut in the happy place. Sanding the strut mount face to a better angle helped and even then I had to add washers to get where I needed.
Maybe it was the right tool available that helped.
The prop guard on my trailer worked well to mount the magnetic mount dial indicator to verify the prop shaft was true.
Glad you have almost completed it.