Strut Alignment Procedure |
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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Not to beat a dead horse, but any chance you are calling calipers 'feelers'?
I can't see how you could slide a feeler in between the couplers when they are bolted together. These are calipers |
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Cole,
Your profile says you are a paper mill mechanical engineer. There are hundreds of couplings and shafts in a mill that require alignment. How do you align them? Maybe you could take a look at some and if you don't actually do the alignments ask someone who does for some first hand visuals and pointers. Does you mill utilize laser alignment on couplings and shafts? They sure are handy but unfortunately not practical on our small inboards. |
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wiscofoot
Senior Member Joined: February-16-2018 Location: Neenah, Wi Status: Offline Points: 124 |
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No chance. And I didn’t add a zero like I said earlier. There as around 1 thousandth or less gap between the faces around the circumference when they were bolted up. I wiggles the .001 feeler right In there. Makes sense because they are probably warped and would likely warp away from each other at the outside if they are not parallel. I haven’t seen a torque spec on the nuts so I didn’t lock them down extremely tight either. Either way it was a worthless measurement because they should’ve been flush and it didn’t tell me anything about the concentricity of the system. Is everyone all good?
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Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13510 |
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my confusion level and your post count are directly related.
Maybe he's only a mecanical engineer and doesn't do alignments. Fix your profile Pete |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Again:
You can't measure the difference between the coupling faces when they are bolted together. If you have a gap between the faces when they are bolted together, then you have a major misalignment. |
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Duane in Indy
Platinum Member Joined: October-26-2015 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 1578 |
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Probably "LoveJoy " couplers that don't require precision alignment
Lovejoy "Spidex" Jaw Couplings KenO or somebody made up a laser type alignment tool that centered inside the cutlas and shot up to the back of the trans coupler. Kinda like a laser pointer on a rifle bore sight tool. You could center the strut to the log and rough set the engine |
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Keep it as original as YOU want it
1978 Mustang (modified) |
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10638 |
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It was Grant MacLaren and his band of old timers that did the laser alignment. There are pictures on CCF or maybe on Grant's website Edit Here's a link to the CCF thread link |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Fixed after 12 years! I never noticed the spelling error until Mr. "eagle eye" Ken mentioned it. but, I never go into my profile anyway!! |
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10638 |
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Good job Pete Somebody else pointed it out to me though didn't you Duane |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Yes, Grant did use a laser but that's for finding the log and coupling center and not the actual coupling face alignment. It's just like CC uses to impress! |
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Duane in Indy
Platinum Member Joined: October-26-2015 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 1578 |
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Now that you can spell it you are one!!! Must have been prior to Spell Check. Betting you still have an Etch A Sketch for a CAD System |
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Keep it as original as YOU want it
1978 Mustang (modified) |
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10638 |
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Is this what a chat room is like?
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wiscofoot
Senior Member Joined: February-16-2018 Location: Neenah, Wi Status: Offline Points: 124 |
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The millwrights do the alignments and our engineering group has nothing to do with them. I am not the machining/mechanic flavor of ME either. If I knew someone here that would do the work for cash and not marina rates I would have just paid to have it done My work is in thermodynamic systems and fluid handling/metering and structural modifications. I have basically no tools of my own because my family had them all up north before I moved down here and I have been extremely rushed when trying to work on this for a variety of reasons I’m not going to post on here. I promise you I am much more competent than my posts would lead you to believe. I am just not a 20/40/60 year veteran vintage correct craft mechanic. I do appreciate all the help from you guys. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Find a friendly millwright! |
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wiscofoot
Senior Member Joined: February-16-2018 Location: Neenah, Wi Status: Offline Points: 124 |
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That’s like finding a taxidermist that isn’t creepy. You guys have provided more than enough information I have just failed to execute. |
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wiscofoot
Senior Member Joined: February-16-2018 Location: Neenah, Wi Status: Offline Points: 124 |
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Can you guys help me confirm my shaft length so I can get the order in by noon for the new system? Otherwise I won’t get it by next weekend. It’s a ‘76 Martinique (seller told me it was a 78 until I got the title). There is a “50” cut into the shaft near the coupling, would guess that’s the length but don’t want to gamble.
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wiscofoot
Senior Member Joined: February-16-2018 Location: Neenah, Wi Status: Offline Points: 124 |
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Skipped lunch and went home and measured it. 50” tip to tip. ARE will be here next week.
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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It is money well spent.
Is your prop in good shape too? |
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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wiscofoot
Senior Member Joined: February-16-2018 Location: Neenah, Wi Status: Offline Points: 124 |
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Yes. I have 2 3 blades that have both been refurbed and not used yet. One is 13x13 and the other that came with the boat is a 13x14.
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gt40KS
Gold Member Joined: August-05-2017 Location: Wichita Kansas Status: Offline Points: 943 |
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Brilliant idea whoever thought of it !! I think I'll use that with my upcoming install. Need something to get the engine fairly close while setting the block in since I have all new mounts (and the originals were no help, since they weren't all that close to begin with) |
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JCCI
1995 Ski Nautique GT40 |
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wiscofoot
Senior Member Joined: February-16-2018 Location: Neenah, Wi Status: Offline Points: 124 |
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Duane or Ken, any details on making the laser alignment tool?
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Duane in Indy
Platinum Member Joined: October-26-2015 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 1578 |
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Go back up to April 6 in this thread and Pete gives you a LINK to click on that takes you to Grants site. Really clever tool. Grant is out of StLouis, Mo. Really innovative guy and very interesting to talk to. BTW, he skied last year at 80 years young!!!!!! |
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Keep it as original as YOU want it
1978 Mustang (modified) |
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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Some one else had adapted one to fit inside strut. Both are very cool.
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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scorban2
Newbie Joined: September-15-2017 Location: IL Status: Offline Points: 24 |
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In my debating of whether or not to break my strut free and realign, I'd planned to machine a sleeve so that I could put by .223 boresight tool into the strut. Figure if you centered the engine L/R, you could get the strut closer/easier than trying to use the shaft.
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pedricd
Groupie Joined: September-01-2016 Location: Northwest ohio Status: Offline Points: 75 |
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I went through this same thing after I bought my 92 SPN. Some advice: Engine L/R is the last thing to worry about. ARE definitely is the way to go...so many reasons, you won't regret it... I cut out my old shaft very quickly and easily with a sawzall, nice metal blade and some gear oil...no sparks either (which I would be concerned about with a grinder) It sounds like you already have the strut bedded in, but are concerned about alignment. The biggest thing here is centering in the log. For whatever reason, after fully tightening everything down with the bedding my shaft shifted off-center in the log to port more than I liked (dry fit was fine!).... If you end up in a similar situation there is a way out of this without pulling the strut off and re-doing everything... Grab a big pipe wrench, put it on the strut and "tweak" it until it is centered...obviously within reason (can't be worse than what's already happened to it!), and use a cloth so you don't gum up your strut. If the shaft is pressed against the log it is probably too off for this and you are better off re-bedding. If you are off vertically, and not by too much I wouldn't worry it as long as you can get the engine aligned, it doesn't have to be perfect. And don't forget to take a little vertical "strain" off of the shaft when looking through the log when the shaft is free from the transmission as gravity will pull it down slightly from it's "natural" position in the cutlass. Remember alignment starts at the strut, with a straight shaft through the log (centered) and then you worry about the engine (which I found easier to line up than I thought it would). So from stern forward. EDIT: Apologies as I didn't realize that scorban was not the original poster, but hopefully above is useful |
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10638 |
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Why would that be? Both of them have electric motors that spark when you're using them.....................and the shaft is Stainless Steel. No difference in using a metal cutting blade in your Sawzall or a cutoff wheel on the shaft as far as sparks go. |
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pedricd
Groupie Joined: September-01-2016 Location: Northwest ohio Status: Offline Points: 75 |
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I stand corrected :), probably an unfounded concern (don't have lots of SS cutting experience)... Either way you go, should be short work |
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10638 |
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I think I should stand corrected.
One of those little voices in my head said I was all screwed up SS does spark, I just tried it and did a little reading too. The wheel probably gives off more sparks than the metal cutting blade in the Sawzall, when cutting the shaft, but they probably both cause sparks I've cut them with a grinder without any issues. |
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Duane in Indy
Platinum Member Joined: October-26-2015 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 1578 |
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It's more dependent upon the grade or alloy of S/S. ie. the carbon content Even if it does not spark the debris given off will melt into carpet or upholstery So be careful and cover any areas you don't want harmed |
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Keep it as original as YOU want it
1978 Mustang (modified) |
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wiscofoot
Senior Member Joined: February-16-2018 Location: Neenah, Wi Status: Offline Points: 124 |
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So I used a steering wheel/harmonic balancer puller to get my old shaft out. I had the puller already and I didn't want to fool around with cutting the shaft or pressing it out against the trans flange. In the future I may have a local shop straighten and cut a double taper on the old shaft.
I sent the 5200 back to Amazon because there is no way I want to ever try and remove the recessed strut with that stuff in between. There was no sealant used before and it didn't leak. I used 4200 instead. Used the old shaft to get my strut bent straight so the shaft came naturally through the center of the log. I am very satisfied with the alignment in this regard. So all that is done and the new shaft is in the boat with coupler installed. I checked the alignment following Pete's video. This is where I want input to make sure I did it correctly, as it was the source of MASSIVE confusion for all parties earlier in the thread (because I measured with the bolts somewhat tight). Here is how I measured parallelism between the 2 coupler faces. 1. Installed 4 bolts and nuts and tightened them so the system was fully assembled. 2. Loosened the nuts off by about 3/8" so they were not engaged on the washers. 3. Wiggled the shaft side a little bit so there was clearance for feeler gauges 4. Measured gap around circumference. Top-. 0.015" Left- 0.012" Right- 0.012 Bottom- 0.009" To me this would indicate that Left/Right alignment is good and that I need to raise the front and/or lower the back to decrease the 0.006" difference. Do the bolts need to be fully removed to take this measurement? In Petes video it appeared that they were just loosened. Also, in the video I am not able to see the engine mounts as references are made to them. Can someone give me a clear description of the nut that needs to be loosened prior to turning the vertical threaded rod used for vertical adjustment? I read somewhere else it is 15/16", is that correct (have to buy wrench)? Do you think I'll have to adjust both front and back mounts or can I just lower the back mounts to make up the 0.006" difference.? Thanks |
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