Forums
NautiqueParts.comNautiqueSkins.com - Correct Craft Upholstery and Part
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - Strut Alignment Procedure
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Register Register  Login Login

Strut Alignment Procedure

 Post Reply Post Reply Page   123>
Author
MrMcD View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Avatar

Joined: January-28-2014
Location: Folsom, CA
Status: Offline
Points: 1525
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Strut Alignment Procedure
    Posted: April-16-2018 at 9:23pm
I have always had to email my pics to my personal computer and upload them on this site from my PC. If there is a short cut to this method I am all ears.
While spinning the shaft and checking alignment I always put a small amount of lube on the two faces to reduce drag and help them mate consistently.   I have used WD40 it worked.
I removed my strut which was bedded with 5200 without too much issue.
I banged in some wood door wedges and they popped mine off.   
I keep a very sharp gasket scraper in my tool box for cleaning up head gasket surfaces.
It took the old 5200 right off my fiberglass quickly.
I used my wire wheel to remove the 5200 still on the strut.
I put it back on with 5200 because I did not see the big deal cleaning it off.
Like you I had to work to get the strut in the happy place. Sanding the strut mount face to a better angle helped and even then I had to add washers to get where I needed.
Maybe it was the right tool available that helped.
The prop guard on my trailer worked well to mount the magnetic mount dial indicator to verify the prop shaft was true.
Glad you have almost completed it.
!
Back to Top
wiscofoot View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie
Avatar

Joined: February-16-2018
Location: Neenah, Wi
Status: Offline
Points: 63
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wiscofoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-16-2018 at 7:35pm
Got it. Is there an easy way to get pics onto here off an iPhone? I can show you guys the aftermath of the impact that has led me to join this forum and go through all this.
1976 Martinique
Back to Top
TRBenj View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: June-29-2005
Location: NWCT
Status: Offline
Points: 19571
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-16-2018 at 5:13pm
I understand Pete’s point on the bolts, but highly recommend you remove them while doing the alignment.

I constantly re-confirm that the shaft is spinning freely while checking the parallelism of the faces. A few quick turns and a re-measure of the spacing will confirm that your readings are accurate (and not due to some imperfection in one of the coupler faces or radius).
Back to Top
wiscofoot View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie
Avatar

Joined: February-16-2018
Location: Neenah, Wi
Status: Offline
Points: 63
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wiscofoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-16-2018 at 5:11pm
Ok thanks. I should be all good then.
Back to Top
8122pbrainard View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: September-14-2006
Location: Three Lakes Wi.
Status: Offline
Points: 36218
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-16-2018 at 4:49pm
Originally posted by Duane in Indy Duane in Indy wrote:

Originally posted by wiscofoot wiscofoot wrote:

. So is it agreed that the bolts should not even be inserted when checking the face to face alignment?
When I get home I will totally remove the bolts and see if my measurement can be duplicated.


As long as the bolts don't influence your setup then it really doesn't matter either way

Proceed as you are, you are doing great

Cole,
As Duane states, the bolts can stay but, they need to be loose so you can get the feeler gauges between the flanges. I'm glad you now understand the measurements between the flanges are used to check parallelism

Sorry about the video showing the flange bolts. Understand the mini seminar was at a GL reunion and we didn't want to take Alan's boat apart hence all the props I made up!! You also may have noticed I didn't start wrenching on his engine mounts!! Keith also restricted me to 20 minutes!

BTW, speaking of GL, are you considering it? It's sure convenient for you.


54 Atom


77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<
Back to Top
Duane in Indy View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Avatar

Joined: October-26-2015
Location: Indiana
Status: Offline
Points: 1297
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duane in Indy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-16-2018 at 4:26pm
Originally posted by wiscofoot wiscofoot wrote:

. So is it agreed that the bolts should not even be inserted when checking the face to face alignment?

When I get home I will totally remove the bolts and see if my measurement can be duplicated.

So to raise and lower the mounts I just loosed the 15/16" lock nut and then make the adjustments via the square topped threaded rod? Then retighten the lock nut when I am done?


As long as the bolts don't influence your setup then it really doesn't matter either way
Yes on the 15/16" procedure as you described
Proceed as you are, you are doing great
Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)
Back to Top
wiscofoot View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie
Avatar

Joined: February-16-2018
Location: Neenah, Wi
Status: Offline
Points: 63
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wiscofoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-16-2018 at 3:44pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

It’s not clear from your description if you’re still missing the point- it seems quite possible that you are.

.


Yes I understand it. Throughout this entire process I thought it was strange that the video (8:30 mark) showed the alignment being checked with bolts in place. My thought was that the bolts prevent the shaft from going to its happy place. That part of the video was what I was going off, against my intuition, before you guys ripped me to shreds for testing with the feelers with the bolts tight.

I spent about 3 hours getting the strut bent and shimmed to get it to where it is. It is as close to perfect as I could get it. The shaft spins the most freely while in the center of the log. I can push it to the side or let it sag down under it's own weight, but I can feel the resistance growing as I deviate from the center of the log.   I have it supported with a wood block that I cut a V notch in, it allows me to spin the shaft freely by hand while staying concentric in the log, while preventing sag caused by shaft and coupler weight.

In my case right now the natural position of the shaft coupler is in line with the trans, meaning the bolts do not hold it from going up and down or side to side. I understand what you mean by being able force it in to place. When my old shaft and strut were bent and I unbolted the coupler, the shaft side moved over half an inch. These issues have all been addressed and remedied. I spent about 3 hours bending and shimming the strut to get it to this condition.

So is it agreed that the bolts should not even be inserted when checking the face to face alignment?

I would be interested to see someone use the hotwire method on a strut with 5200 that is recessed into the hull.

When I get home I will totally remove the bolts and see if my measurement can be duplicated.

So to raise and lower the mounts I just loosed the 15/16" lock nut and then make the adjustments via the square topped threaded rod? Then retighten the lock nut when I am done?
Back to Top
8122pbrainard View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: September-14-2006
Location: Three Lakes Wi.
Status: Offline
Points: 36218
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-16-2018 at 3:02pm
Originally posted by wiscofoot wiscofoot wrote:



Here is how I measured parallelism between the 2 coupler faces.

Top-.       0.015"
Bottom- 0.009"

Do you think I'll have to adjust both front and back mounts or can I just lower the back mounts to make up the 0.006" difference.?

Thanks

Cole,
Yes, you will need to adjust the height of both the fore and aft mounts. If you adjust just say the fore mounts or just the aft mounts, it changes the height/center line of the trans coupling and in turn that changes the height of the prop shaft. You need to keep that "happy spot" where the prop shaft turns freely in the cutlass.

You're getting there!


54 Atom


77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<
Back to Top
pedricd View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie


Joined: August-31-2016
Location: Northwest ohio
Status: Offline
Points: 61
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pedricd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-16-2018 at 2:53pm
I second the 4200...although others say you can get 5200 off with a hot wire.

I did this without the bolts, I recommend the same. I pressed the coupler together by hand, check tolerances, pulled apart the couplers, rotated the prop shaft by hand a bit, push back together and check again (I did this several times). You should get consistent readings, which confirms that everything is true (shaft etc). That's step one to make sure the shaft is straight. If you haven't done so already make sure you transferred the collar on the shaft from the old to the new so it cannot slide out of the boat if it snaps while driving.

Now for aligning the motor: I would start by concentrating on the rear mounts, make small adjustments, push the coupler together, check it, and repeat.

It's hard to tell from here, but it looks like you need to drop the back-end of the motor a bit. Start there, again small nudges check... once you get the hang of it it is not too bad.

I also agree with the others, make sure when you are pushing the coupler together that the shaft is in it's "natural" and freeist position vertically in regards to the cutlass. You should not be forcing the couplers to connect they should just slide together (while having to lift the shaft slightly to neutral).
Back to Top
Duane in Indy View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Avatar

Joined: October-26-2015
Location: Indiana
Status: Offline
Points: 1297
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duane in Indy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-16-2018 at 2:43pm
My mounts needed the 15/16" wrench. Harbor Freight is about the cheapest. You may need to play with both the front and back to get right. I like to pull the shaft back out of the trans coupler and rotate 180* and then pull it back into the coupler and double check the clearances again. The shaft will normally flop around a bit because of cutlas clearance   Sounds as though you are getting close.

edit: Typed too slow. Tim explained it better
Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)
Back to Top
TRBenj View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: June-29-2005
Location: NWCT
Status: Offline
Points: 19571
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-16-2018 at 2:33pm
It’s not clear from your description if you’re still missing the point- it seems quite possible that you are.

Due to the give in the strut bearing, it is very easy to move the shaft (at the coupler end) around significantly. It will sag low under its own weight. You need to assess the concentricity of the shaft/log while the shaft is positioned such that it is spinning easily in the strut. If that last sentence did not make sense, read it again until you do (you wouldn’t be the first to miss this very important point). If you miss it, anything done after this point is time spent dialing in potentially massive misalignment.

When evaluating shaft to powertrain alignment, again, the shaft needs to be in the position where it spins freely. Some people like to find that spot and lock the shaft in place (with some support to prevent it from sagging). I prefer to constantly turn it by hand (spinning via the shaft itself or the coupler). If it doesn’t want to turn by hand, it is not aligned in the strut. The reason you don’t install the bolts between the faces when aligning is because it is very easy to move that shaft position to the wrong place, and the bolts just make it that much easier to keep it there. It also screws up the face to face measurement. The inner engagement on the couplers is enough to keep the faces in the ballpark as you measure.
Back to Top
wiscofoot View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie
Avatar

Joined: February-16-2018
Location: Neenah, Wi
Status: Offline
Points: 63
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wiscofoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-16-2018 at 2:15pm
So I used a steering wheel/harmonic balancer puller to get my old shaft out. I had the puller already and I didn't want to fool around with cutting the shaft or pressing it out against the trans flange. In the future I may have a local shop straighten and cut a double taper on the old shaft.

I sent the 5200 back to Amazon because there is no way I want to ever try and remove the recessed strut with that stuff in between. There was no sealant used before and it didn't leak. I used 4200 instead. Used the old shaft to get my strut bent straight so the shaft came naturally through the center of the log. I am very satisfied with the alignment in this regard.

So all that is done and the new shaft is in the boat with coupler installed. I checked the alignment following Pete's video. This is where I want input to make sure I did it correctly, as it was the source of MASSIVE confusion for all parties earlier in the thread (because I measured with the bolts somewhat tight).

Here is how I measured parallelism between the 2 coupler faces.

1. Installed 4 bolts and nuts and tightened them so the system was fully assembled.
2. Loosened the nuts off by about 3/8" so they were not engaged on the washers.
3. Wiggled the shaft side a little bit so there was clearance for feeler gauges
4. Measured gap around circumference.

Top-.       0.015"
Left-       0.012"
Right-     0.012
Bottom- 0.009"

To me this would indicate that Left/Right alignment is good and that I need to raise the front and/or lower the back to decrease the 0.006" difference.

Do the bolts need to be fully removed to take this measurement? In Petes video it appeared that they were just loosened. Also, in the video I am not able to see the engine mounts as references are made to them.

Can someone give me a clear description of the nut that needs to be loosened prior to turning the vertical threaded rod used for vertical adjustment? I read somewhere else it is 15/16", is that correct (have to buy wrench)?

Do you think I'll have to adjust both front and back mounts or can I just lower the back mounts to make up the 0.006" difference.?

Thanks
Back to Top
Duane in Indy View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Avatar

Joined: October-26-2015
Location: Indiana
Status: Offline
Points: 1297
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duane in Indy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-16-2018 at 1:29pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

I think I should stand corrected.

One of those little voices in my head said I was all screwed up

SS does spark, I just tried it and did a little reading too.

The wheel probably gives off more sparks than the metal cutting blade in the Sawzall, when cutting the shaft, but they probably both cause sparks

I've cut them with a grinder without any issues.


It's more dependent upon the grade or alloy of S/S. ie. the carbon content
Even if it does not spark the debris given off will melt into carpet or upholstery So be careful and cover any areas you don't want harmed
Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)
Back to Top
KENO View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah


Joined: June-05-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 3333
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-16-2018 at 12:04pm
I think I should stand corrected.

One of those little voices in my head said I was all screwed up

SS does spark, I just tried it and did a little reading too.

The wheel probably gives off more sparks than the metal cutting blade in the Sawzall, when cutting the shaft, but they probably both cause sparks

I've cut them with a grinder without any issues.
Back to Top
pedricd View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie


Joined: August-31-2016
Location: Northwest ohio
Status: Offline
Points: 61
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pedricd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-16-2018 at 11:31am
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:


No difference in using a metal cutting blade in your Sawzall or a cutoff wheel on the shaft as far as sparks go.


I stand corrected :), probably an unfounded concern (don't have lots of SS cutting experience)... Either way you go, should be short work
Back to Top
KENO View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah


Joined: June-05-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 3333
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-16-2018 at 11:02am
Originally posted by pedricd pedricd wrote:

[QUOTE=scorban2] I cut out my old shaft very quickly and easily with a sawzall, nice metal blade and some gear oil...no sparks either (which I would be concerned about with a grinder)


Why would that be?

Both of them have electric motors that spark when you're using them.....................and the shaft is Stainless Steel.

No difference in using a metal cutting blade in your Sawzall or a cutoff wheel on the shaft as far as sparks go.
Back to Top
pedricd View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie


Joined: August-31-2016
Location: Northwest ohio
Status: Offline
Points: 61
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pedricd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-16-2018 at 10:49am
Originally posted by scorban2 scorban2 wrote:

In my debating of whether or not to break my strut free and realign, I'd planned to machine a sleeve so that I could put by .223 boresight tool into the strut. Figure if you centered the engine L/R, you could get the strut closer/easier than trying to use the shaft.


I went through this same thing after I bought my 92 SPN. Some advice:

Engine L/R is the last thing to worry about.

ARE definitely is the way to go...so many reasons, you won't regret it... I cut out my old shaft very quickly and easily with a sawzall, nice metal blade and some gear oil...no sparks either (which I would be concerned about with a grinder)

It sounds like you already have the strut bedded in, but are concerned about alignment. The biggest thing here is centering in the log. For whatever reason, after fully tightening everything down with the bedding my shaft shifted off-center in the log to port more than I liked (dry fit was fine!).... If you end up in a similar situation there is a way out of this without pulling the strut off and re-doing everything... Grab a big pipe wrench, put it on the strut and "tweak" it until it is centered...obviously within reason (can't be worse than what's already happened to it!), and use a cloth so you don't gum up your strut. If the shaft is pressed against the log it is probably too off for this and you are better off re-bedding.

If you are off vertically, and not by too much I wouldn't worry it as long as you can get the engine aligned, it doesn't have to be perfect. And don't forget to take a little vertical "strain" off of the shaft when looking through the log when the shaft is free from the transmission as gravity will pull it down slightly from it's "natural" position in the cutlass.

Remember alignment starts at the strut, with a straight shaft through the log (centered) and then you worry about the engine (which I found easier to line up than I thought it would). So from stern forward.

EDIT: Apologies as I didn't realize that scorban was not the original poster, but hopefully above is useful
Back to Top
scorban2 View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: September-15-2017
Location: IL
Status: Offline
Points: 24
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scorban2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2018 at 1:09pm
In my debating of whether or not to break my strut free and realign, I'd planned to machine a sleeve so that I could put by .223 boresight tool into the strut. Figure if you centered the engine L/R, you could get the strut closer/easier than trying to use the shaft.
Back to Top
SNobsessed View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah


Joined: October-21-2007
Location: IA
Status: Offline
Points: 6540
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-11-2018 at 5:01pm
Some one else had adapted one to fit inside strut. Both are very cool.
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin
Back to Top
Duane in Indy View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Avatar

Joined: October-26-2015
Location: Indiana
Status: Offline
Points: 1297
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duane in Indy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-11-2018 at 4:52pm
Originally posted by wiscofoot wiscofoot wrote:

Duane or Ken, any details on making the laser alignment tool?


Go back up to April 6 in this thread and Pete gives you a LINK to click on that takes you to Grants site. Really clever tool. Grant is out of StLouis, Mo. Really innovative guy and very interesting to talk to. BTW, he skied last year at 80 years young!!!!!!

















Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)
Back to Top
wiscofoot View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie
Avatar

Joined: February-16-2018
Location: Neenah, Wi
Status: Offline
Points: 63
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wiscofoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-11-2018 at 4:35pm
Duane or Ken, any details on making the laser alignment tool?
Back to Top
gt40KS View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member
Avatar

Joined: August-05-2017
Location: Wichita Kansas
Status: Offline
Points: 649
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gt40KS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2018 at 6:16pm
Originally posted by Duane in Indy Duane in Indy wrote:

... KenO or somebody made up a laser type alignment tool that centered inside the cutlas and shot up to the back of the trans coupler. Kinda like a laser pointer on a rifle bore sight tool. You could center the strut to the log and rough set the engine


Brilliant idea whoever thought of it !! I think I'll use that with my upcoming install. Need something to get the engine fairly close while setting the block in since I have all new mounts (and the originals were no help, since they weren't all that close to begin with)
JCCI
1995 Ski Nautique GT40
Back to Top
wiscofoot View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie
Avatar

Joined: February-16-2018
Location: Neenah, Wi
Status: Offline
Points: 63
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wiscofoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2018 at 5:53pm
Yes. I have 2 3 blades that have both been refurbed and not used yet. One is 13x13 and the other that came with the boat is a 13x14.
Back to Top
SNobsessed View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah


Joined: October-21-2007
Location: IA
Status: Offline
Points: 6540
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2018 at 5:43pm
It is money well spent.

Is your prop in good shape too?
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin
Back to Top
wiscofoot View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie
Avatar

Joined: February-16-2018
Location: Neenah, Wi
Status: Offline
Points: 63
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wiscofoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2018 at 1:10pm
Skipped lunch and went home and measured it. 50” tip to tip. ARE will be here next week.
Back to Top
wiscofoot View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie
Avatar

Joined: February-16-2018
Location: Neenah, Wi
Status: Offline
Points: 63
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wiscofoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2018 at 11:53am
Can you guys help me confirm my shaft length so I can get the order in by noon for the new system? Otherwise I won’t get it by next weekend. It’s a ‘76 Martinique (seller told me it was a 78 until I got the title). There is a “50” cut into the shaft near the coupling, would guess that’s the length but don’t want to gamble.
Back to Top
wiscofoot View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie
Avatar

Joined: February-16-2018
Location: Neenah, Wi
Status: Offline
Points: 63
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wiscofoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2018 at 11:48am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Cole, if you don't actually do the alignments ask someone who does for some first hand visuals and pointers.

Find a friendly millwright!


That’s like finding a taxidermist that isn’t creepy. You guys have provided more than enough information I have just failed to execute.
Back to Top
8122pbrainard View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: September-14-2006
Location: Three Lakes Wi.
Status: Offline
Points: 36218
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2018 at 11:37am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Cole, if you don't actually do the alignments ask someone who does for some first hand visuals and pointers.

Find a friendly millwright!


54 Atom


77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<
Back to Top
wiscofoot View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie
Avatar

Joined: February-16-2018
Location: Neenah, Wi
Status: Offline
Points: 63
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wiscofoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2018 at 11:27am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Cole,
Your profile says you are a paper mill mechanical engineer. There are hundreds of couplings and shafts in a mill that require alignment. How do you align them? Maybe you could take a look at some and if you don't actually do the alignments ask someone who does for some first hand visuals and pointers. Does you mill utilize laser alignment on couplings and shafts? They sure are handy but unfortunately not practical on our small inboards.


The millwrights do the alignments and our engineering group has nothing to do with them. I am not the machining/mechanic flavor of ME either. If I knew someone here that would do the work for cash and not marina rates I would have just paid to have it done My work is in thermodynamic systems and fluid handling/metering and structural modifications. I have basically no tools of my own because my family had them all up north before I moved down here and I have been extremely rushed when trying to work on this for a variety of reasons I’m not going to post on here. I promise you I am much more competent than my posts would lead you to believe.   I am just not a 20/40/60 year veteran vintage correct craft mechanic. I do appreciate all the help from you guys.
Back to Top
KENO View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah


Joined: June-05-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 3333
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2018 at 10:54am
Is this what a chat room is like?
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page   123>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Copyright 2018 | Bagley Productions, LLC