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Strut Alignment Procedure

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wiscofoot View Drop Down
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    Posted: May-06-2019 at 7:28pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Cole,
Go ahead and drill the holes out and then use some larger washers in the bilge. Struts were never machined with precise holes in the base.


Thank you P Diddy. Glad I used 4200 last time...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-06-2019 at 7:24pm
Cole,
Go ahead and drill the holes out and then use some larger washers in the bilge. Struts were never machined with precise holes in the base.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wiscofoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-06-2019 at 7:15pm
I was able to procure a strut from a similar vintage SN. Looks like it was machined out of a piece of 304 stainless. The height and rake angle of the cutlass bore are good to go, and it fits in my recess, but the holes are offset by about 1/8-3/16”. Anything wrong with drilling through the hull to get the bolts through and fill in the gaps in the through hull holes with 4200?   I can see the old holes when I dry fit but there is no way the through bolts will fit as is. Wouldn’t be drilling totally “new” holes, basically just offsetting the old holes by less than a bolt diameter. The way I see it is that the wall of the hole in the hull shouldn’t be really where the load is, it should be on the bottom of the washers on the topside and the hull side of the strut.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gt40KS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2019 at 9:59pm
Dry fit, yes. But I was thinking he should be using 4200 to mount the strut.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2019 at 8:35pm
Another shade tree trick for you::

Get a 1" shaft zinc. With the shaft log (hose and gland) removed you can put the zinc on the shaft inside of the boat upon the shaft and it will keep the shaft still and centered in the shaft tube when setting the strut. The zinc anode is egg shaped and will self center in the tube. Keep spinning it when you tighten the bolts, An increase in rotational effort tells you that you fugged up before the glue dries.
Good luck man, we all been where you at!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2019 at 8:28am
I would dry-fit strut to verify alignment, as the 3m5200 is pretty messy to clean off if you need to add washers, etc.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FLCaptain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2019 at 11:00pm
Ordered some new packing and bearings from SKIDIM. will load it up Friday and mount the strut with some 5200 and align the engine. If the eyeball wobble check passes I'll test out my new carb, cooling pumps and fuel pump for a spin. If its good , the boom goes on and carpet commences and the ski tower gets ordered. If its go the vibra-shakes, then the shaft departs for Bradenton and the carpet comes out for a refresh. But that sweet79 interior is not leaving.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FLCaptain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2019 at 11:00pm
Ordered some new packing and bearings from SKIDIM. will load it up Friday and mount the strut with some 5200 and align the engine. If the eyeball wobble check passes I'll test out my new carb, cooling pumps and fuel pump for a spin. If its good , the boom goes on and carpet commences and the ski tower gets ordered. If its go the vibra-shakes, then the shaft departs for Bradenton and the carpet comes out for a refresh. But that sweet79 interior is not leaving.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2019 at 10:48pm
Originally posted by gt40KS gt40KS wrote:

Wow, pull the prop and look at the dimple. So simple I don't know why I never thought of this when I was doing mine.   It's got me wondering though ... would this work if you were just checking your shaft/ strut alignment vs checking for a bent shaft?


If you had a set of big ones, you could eyeball the dimple with the prop still on the shaft.

Really big ones and not much in the common sense department
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FLCaptain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2019 at 10:22pm
Great. What size is a 79 Nautique. No instructions on the one a sawzawed out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gt40KS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2019 at 8:14pm
Wow, pull the prop and look at the dimple. So simple I don't know why I never thought of this when I was doing mine.   It's got me wondering though ... would this work if you were just checking your shaft/ strut alignment vs checking for a bent shaft?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2019 at 6:54pm


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FLCaptain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2019 at 6:46pm
Well. The Daft comment makes me want a Guinness. That’s done. And delicious. So where do I get a new cutlass bearing because I’m gonna try Pete’s plan but the strut is laying on my workbench so I need to order a cutlass tonight. Bc I need to mount the strut, align the engine, mount the rebuilt carb, mount the new fuel pump and lines. Mount the rebuild from rawpumps.com for my old commander. And mount the replacement block pump for good measure. Then I’m gonna try Pete’s recommendation bc I’d rather ski than ship shafts all over Florida.

Y’all are gonna love the progression of this project. I’m an old former sea world skiier. Back in the 1995 range. Nothing special. Just in the right place at the right time. Now I want to raise my kids and our friends kids up for a shot at trying skiiing. So my daughter turns 8 in 2 months. I was 7 when I learned behind a 20hp John boat in old Florida. So the pressure is on to run this boat this year.

Up next year is maybe stinger replacement or at a minimum step cut glass work for platform support which I CAN teach as I’ve done it to an older 88 Nautique.

But for now I want it running and boom ready.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2019 at 5:23pm
Originally posted by baitkiller baitkiller wrote:

Pull off the prop, squirt some dish soap in the shaft bearing, fire it up, stick it in gear and look at it. If its bent you will see it. Look from the side for whip and focus on the lathe dimple for taper bends. Takes no time at all.


I checked mine this way and it was easy to see that it was bent. Looked like a dog wagging it's tail! It's a good way to do a coarse check after a bad hit. I actually checked mine while the boat was still in the water on a houseboat trip.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2019 at 4:39pm
Pete are you daft? You think he can feel .003"???
QUOTE:
I’ll keep you posted. I’m weighing a 40 yr old boat with an ugly cast strut and the shakes with a new prop. So I’ll take all the suspects to them and see what turns up. Here’s the case:

I offered a way for him to prove in a minute if the shake is the shaft without pulling the goddamn thing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2019 at 4:16pm
Originally posted by baitkiller baitkiller wrote:

Pull off the prop, squirt some dish soap in the shaft bearing, fire it up, stick it in gear and look at it. If its bent you will see it. Look from the side for whip and focus on the lathe dimple for taper bends. Takes no time at all.

John,
You have good eyesight if you can see .003" runout!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2019 at 4:14pm
Pull off the prop, squirt some dish soap in the shaft bearing, fire it up, stick it in gear and look at it. If its bent you will see it. Look from the side for whip and focus on the lathe dimple for taper bends. Takes no time at all.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FLCaptain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2019 at 3:39pm
Do you recommend any local shops to check my Shaft? General Prop is increasingly hard to get to I think. I"m hoping to pull the shaft tomorrow or Friday. I'm in Orlando. I'd love to have someone local come look at it without pulling it. and just do the strut bearings. I got the old ones out. What do you think of the bearings on SKIDIM? Or do you guys get strut bearings and set screws elsewhere?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2019 at 12:33pm
That’s what happens when the river current keeps making you miss lining up on the trailer. Then she got pissed whipped the boat around forgetting about the jetty rocks just under the surface.
Now the good part... She won’t load the boat anymore so she had to learn to back up the truck and trailer. She is now really good at it and I get to sit in the boat while she hikes to get the truck to load.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gt40KS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2019 at 10:34pm
Wow Paul .... and I thought my daughter did a number on mine 2 years ago   



I'm thinking your wife wins this one    
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Call Woody at SOUTHEAST MARINE. Was Southeast Correct Craft back in the day. 407-851-1965
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2019 at 1:14pm
Gun Driver, you ripped up that prop really nicely. Nice angle on the strut also.
Must be designed for those shallow water visits.
At least the rudder looks good.
Some day I will dig out the prop and strut I destroyed years ago and grab a picture.
I think I still have it.
The prop looked like the incredible hulk got hold of it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2019 at 12:33pm
Originally posted by gun-driver gun-driver wrote:

That’s almost as good of a job as my wife did




Sure Paul, blame the wife!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wiscofoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2019 at 10:18am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Cole,
You sure did the job on that strut!! Considering how bent it is, I would worry about it's integrity if straightened. Go for new.

Stay off the Fox until all the spring junk is gone.


It was the Wolf this time Pete. I think I'm going to keep it parked until I head back up to our neck of the woods next month. Any recommendations on procuring a new strut?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-24-2019 at 8:52pm
That’s almost as good of a job as my wife did on our Signature Edition





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flyweed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-24-2019 at 5:58pm
ewww....yeah..I'd ditch that strut and get a new one. That baby is bent!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-24-2019 at 4:24pm
Cole,
You sure did the job on that strut!! Considering how bent it is, I would worry about it's integrity if straightened. Go for new.

Stay off the Fox until all the spring junk is gone.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wiscofoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-24-2019 at 3:43pm
So it's that time of year again. Rivers are flooded and I hit a submerged log doing 41. Glad I got the A.R.E. shaft so there will be no threaded rod homemade puller headache.

I am trying to avoid paying anyone to do any work I can do myself. This strut was bent back into shape last year so I'm thinking there is some stress fatigue already.

1. Does anyone have a strut they'd sell me? It's a 4 bolt, and it is slightly recessed into hull, I have the model number somewhere

2. Any advice for straightening it myself? (Beyond Pete's technique of using old shaft to coerce it) Details around heating it up...do I work it while it is hot? How hot? I may have an anvil somewhere in the barn.

I saw the bottle jack jig someone else used, looks nice but I don't have a welder...could maybe get creative and build a jig with fasteners but that starts getting pricey.

3. What have you guys paid for a replacement double taper shaft without any other accessories? My work has a good relationship with a local machine shop, wondering if they would be any cheaper than Elbert/A.R.E....probably not worth the hassle.

I added the red triangle into the picture to show the approximate angle the strut is bent at. It doesn't appear to be very "twisted", I should be able to get the twist out of it but the bend at the bottom of the web where it meets the flange is pretty serious.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-16-2019 at 5:35pm
Just another way to do it - I would put a .003 feeler in the tight spot, then finger tight the closest bolt to hold it in. The you have both hands free to check the other 3 points of compass. Just add .003, so your max gap is now .006. You can spin it to see how the gaps vary.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-16-2019 at 1:23pm
When spinning the shaft in the strut while trying to align everything I sprayed a little WD 40 into the strut bearings. It was faster than spraying frequently with water to keep it lubricated and it lasted longer than water.   I would not do this in the off season and let the boat sit for months with WD 40 on the strut bearing/cutlass.   It may cause the rubber to rot.   My Cutlass happens to be the plastic type so I did not worry about rot.

I read this thread and I see where a few people already tried to point out the importance of your shaft mating to the transmission with no bolts installed.
This is important as it allows you to spin the shaft while mating it to the transmission.
It allows you to measure your alignment quickly, just pull the shaft up into place and measure.   It will stay where you put it. As long as you dont force the feeler gauge in and cause it to move but a .001 feeler gauge has no real strength so in my experience the shaft does not move.   Check the mating surfaces all the way around to see if your feeler gauge goes in. If it goes in with the .001 size try .002, if that goes in try .003 keep trying larger ones till you know how large your gap is.   You do this so you can track your adjustments as you try to get it perfect.
When you start moving the engine mounts you will see your gaps change, you will quickly learn how much change you get with small adjustments to your mounts. Remember the mounts will move in and out as well as up and down, you will probably need to adjust all directions to get it correct.   I have used a ball pen hammer to encourage stuck mounts to move in or out as needed, again a little lubrication into the adjustment slot will help your cause.
I think I got my tranny coupler down to .0015 being my widest gap and called it good.
At this point you should be able to rotate your shaft while holding the tranny coupler from turning and measure again getting the same measurements.
This will tell you the couplers are faced well and not bent.
With the plastic/Delryn strut cutlass bearing the prop spins freely with 1 finger and very little pressure.   I know the rubber cutlass bearings will have more drag than that.
The proceedure takes time but is not hard. Plan on spending 4 hours on it and celebrate if you get it done in only 1 or 2. Don't go into this thinking you can do it in 20 minutes.
Good Luck
Mark
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