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83 New Stringers & Floor

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-18-2018 at 12:42am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-18-2018 at 9:15am
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Originally posted by jterr jterr wrote:

Question- What is kcel for floor replacement, might be spelled wrong??


Probably klegecell.

If you google it, you'll get a lot of info


Then again maybe not,

Sounds like Tim found the stuff you're referring to
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-18-2018 at 3:32pm
Got it just looking at all my options. At 73 I need easy to do stuff, that bending, climbing , tripping and falling out of boats is a killer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2018 at 6:23am
Found another problem as I was thinking of lifting boat off trailer. The rear lift eye is just about rusted away. I can't tell what it looks like and is their a fix or just cover hole??
Anyone got a picture of what it should look like??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2018 at 8:27am
John,
The lifting ring bracketry will need rebuilding before you do any lifting. You can do it now before the stringers if you really want to get the hull off the trailer. Have you looked at the forward ring bracket? That too is a concern especially since some of it is hidden in the glass at the stem. Why do you want to get it off the trailer now? If you want to get it lower, remove the wheels of the trailer.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2018 at 10:29am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

John,
The lifting ring bracketry will need rebuilding before you do any lifting. You can do it now before the stringers if you really want to get the hull off the trailer. Have you looked at the forward ring bracket? That too is a concern especially since some of it is hidden in the glass at the stem. Why do you want to get it off the trailer? If you want to get it lower, remove the wheels of the trailer.


Understood. Where can you find that bracket, I saw some eyelets on line? I assume those 2 wood pieces are next to the hull at top???
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Duane in Indy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2018 at 11:07am
Originally posted by jterr jterr wrote:

Understood. Where can you find that bracket, I saw some eyelets on line? I assume those 2 wood pieces are next to the hull at top???


You won't find them.
The angle iron piece is glassed into the transom. The lifting part is no more than a piece of all thread. 5/8-11   IIRC.   Plywood is against the deck on the inside. The lift ring threads onto the all thread.
As Pete said,   check the front lift pieces also. They are most likely shot also. Most of the damage to them maybe under the floor and not visible. I have detailed shots of the front but not the back.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2018 at 11:20am
John,
As Duane mentions, you'll need to get some angle. The threaded rod at a good hardware store, big box or on line at McMaster.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2018 at 11:42am
Front looks ok, but may replace when I start the rear. Post those pics if you would and will compare.
Also you said the bracket is glassed in, but it looks as there may bolts sticking out...
I'll get under there and look closer.

I had a thought that if I were not going to use it for lifting could I just replace the Eye and wood and not even use the bracket. Not planning on leaving in water..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duane in Indy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2018 at 1:00pm
Originally posted by jterr jterr wrote:

Front looks ok, but may replace when I start the rear. Post those pics if you would and will compare.
Also you said the bracket is glassed in, but it looks as there may bolts sticking out...
I'll get under there and look closer.

I had a thought that if I were not going to use it for lifting could I just replace the Eye and wood and not even use the bracket. Not planning on leaving in water..


Fix it right. Does not take that long or that much effort. Lift rings are just that To Lift.
How about the next guy that does not know that it is just ornamental???

Pics of front
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2018 at 1:01pm
Originally posted by jterr jterr wrote:

I had a thought that if I were not going to use it for lifting could I just replace the Eye and wood and not even use the bracket. Not planning on leaving in water..

John,
I feel you will sooner or later regret the convenience of being able to use the lifting rings. You are doing a stringer job and will have all the supplies at hand so why not fix the eye??

Also, before you discovered the bad eye I asked:
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

John,
Why do you want to get it off the trailer now?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2018 at 1:03pm
Originally posted by Duane in Indy Duane in Indy wrote:


How about the next guy that does not know that it is just ornamental???

You end up with a nice hole in the aft deck and possibly someone injured!!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2018 at 5:44pm
Not being a smart ass, but if I did I would let the next guy know. But it will probably be one of my grandchildren...LOL

I just decided to just fix as I have to replace the wood on the transom anyhow, what's a little more work.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gt40KS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2018 at 1:09pm
Originally posted by jterr jterr wrote:

I know I'm nowhere ready to put stringers back in. I was wondering can Oak be used as a stringer?
Have alot and my neighbor just got a saw mill....


I know I'm very late chiming in here, but for the benefit of others as well, NO, DO NOT use any type of oak.   

The various types of oak, walnut, pecan, ash, and so on are what is known as an 'open cell' or open grain wood. While usually very hard and dense woods, they are generally markedly heavier and the open cells of the wood will trap any moisture that can only dry out if it exposed to open air. That's pretty much the case with about any wood, but the open cells multiply the problem and accelerate the rotting process, which is why the lighter, closed cell woods generally do much better for applications like this.
There are a few closed cell woods that also have a natural resistance to rot as well, some better than others. One of the best is of course redwood, followed by cedar and Doug fir to name a few. In the case of stringers though, you're looking for the sweet spot - rot resistance and strength but in as light of material as possible. While redwood is the lightest and best by far with rot, it also has the weakest grain strength of the 3, followed very closely by the cedar. The fir is actually much one of the most dense "soft" woods there is which makes it ideal because it retains high grain strength while still being a closed cell and having natural rot resistance.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2018 at 3:48pm
I'm 75% going with Sea Cast on the stringers ; Kay-cel and Coosa board all covered with glass on floor and transom areas.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2018 at 4:04pm
Originally posted by Duane in Indy Duane in Indy wrote:

Originally posted by jterr jterr wrote:

Understood. Where can you find that bracket, I saw some eyelets on line? I assume those 2 wood pieces are next to the hull at top???


You won't find them.
The angle iron piece is glassed into the transom. The lifting part is no more than a piece of all thread. 5/8-11   IIRC.   Plywood is against the deck on the inside. The lift ring threads onto the all thread.
As Pete said,   check the front lift pieces also. They are most likely shot also. Most of the damage to them maybe under the floor and not visible. I have detailed shots of the front but not the back.


It looks as though the bracket/angle iron(I got it out what was left) was at top of that section. Do I need to cut the whole piece out from top to bottom??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Duane in Indy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2018 at 4:40pm
Originally posted by jterr jterr wrote:

It looks as though the bracket/angle iron(I got it out what was left) was at top of that section. Do I need to cut the whole piece out from top to bottom??


I would only cut out the angle iron part. BUT if it were me, I would weld a couple of vertical straps to the new angle that would hang down several inches and screw those to the transom as well as the angle piece. Then glass the whole works to the transom as good as I could.   The angle needs the hole for the all thread also   The bigger the wood blocks on top the more they distribute the load also. ;
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2018 at 5:12pm
Originally posted by gt40KS gt40KS wrote:

Originally posted by jterr jterr wrote:

I know I'm nowhere ready to put stringers back in. I was wondering can Oak be used as a stringer?
Have alot and my neighbor just got a saw mill....


I know I'm very late chiming in here, but for the benefit of others as well, NO, DO NOT use any type of oak.   

The various types of oak, walnut, pecan, ash, and so on are what is known as an 'open cell' or open grain wood. While usually very hard and dense woods, they are generally markedly heavier and the open cells of the wood will trap any moisture that can only dry out if it exposed to open air. That's pretty much the case with about any wood, but the open cells multiply the problem and accelerate the rotting process, which is why the lighter, closed cell woods generally do much better for applications like this.
There are a few closed cell woods that also have a natural resistance to rot as well, some better than others. One of the best is of course redwood, followed by cedar and Doug fir to name a few. .

Joe,
I disagree with your thoughts about open grain woods especially White Oak. It is the most sought after wood for boat building and has been used for many years due to it's strength but more so its rot resistance. Resistance has nothing to do with open or closed grain. You are also forgetting the recommended CPES step!! BTW, do you know what type of wood was used to build the USS Constitution (Old Ironsides)?



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2018 at 6:11pm
Originally posted by Duane in Indy Duane in Indy wrote:

Originally posted by jterr jterr wrote:

It looks as though the bracket/angle iron(I got it out what was left) was at top of that section. Do I need to cut the whole piece out from top to bottom??


I would only cut out the angle iron part. BUT if it were me, I would weld a couple of vertical straps to the new angle that would hang down several inches and screw those to the transom as well as the angle piece. Then glass the whole works to the transom as good as I could.   The angle needs the hole for the all thread also   The bigger the wood blocks on top the more they distribute the load also. ;


Roger That I'm waiting now for the rot to dry and clean that part out and then proceed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2018 at 9:48pm
Well I'm down to the bottom of the thick wood at top and it is all rotted. Tomorrow will drill down lower and see if any good wood left...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2018 at 10:19pm
Originally posted by jterr jterr wrote:

Well I'm down to the bottom of the thick wood at top and it is all rotted. Tomorrow will drill down lower and see if any good wood left...

Hopefully you will be removing all the old wood!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2018 at 11:16pm
That would be the best thing to do I think..My neighbor has alot of Galvanized angle and threaded rod to make a strong metal part then use the Coosa composite and glass..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2018 at 11:17pm
Beginning to wonder if this boat had sunk with all the rot and rust high up in the boat....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2018 at 8:13am
Originally posted by jterr jterr wrote:

That "wood" be the best thing to do I think....
???
John,
I don't understand what you're thinking.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2018 at 2:20pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by jterr jterr wrote:

That would be the best thing to do I think....
???
John,
I don't understand what you're thinking.
wouldwould
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2018 at 2:21pm
well that didn't work, I think you got it..LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gt40KS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2018 at 3:35pm
Yeah, I can tell you I'm glad that's one thing I don't have to think about. I agree Seacast is IMO the best thing you could do. Even 'Old Ironsides' will rot, eventually (with or without the CPES)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2018 at 10:52pm
One more thing why I now think this boat has been under water. When I went to finish cutting out the section for the rear hanging eyelet, about a inch or so down I hit water.
Decided to make a cut at bottom and probably got a quart of water out of that cavity.
The only way for it to get in would be at the top which is tight under the top deck-Sunk..
At least I don't have to replace the outside skin, but most likely all the wood mounting places on transom.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2018 at 11:31pm
Typical of all older Correct Crafts with foam,does not have to have been sunk,could have happened if it was even left uncovered.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2018 at 12:33pm
Before I start cutting everything out of transom is there a easy way to check the wood areas covered in glass without just cutting them out??
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