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"Blown" Ford 351

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-11-2017 at 2:13pm
Yeah, what he said

Keep the updates coming with a little humor mixed in.

Shouldn't need any "face cream" this time around

And remember     "If in doubt, don't throw it out" when it comes to all those bolt on marine parts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-11-2017 at 2:18pm
William get your self the book Rebuilding Ford small block by Tom Monroe it will help you out a lot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote William777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-11-2017 at 2:50pm
Thanks, ordered the book from Amzn. I'll be studying that before I do anything fur sure. Eyes on the prize, accelerating away from the dock.........with some good technotranz playing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Timr71 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-11-2017 at 3:12pm
Good luck building it out. I"m sure you can do it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote William777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-11-2017 at 4:21pm


Here are the new things. I need to check my texts with the seller but he said something about the crankshaft being heavy duty.? The block certainly looks a lot better than the old one.
1978 Martinique Ford 351
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-11-2017 at 4:54pm
It's a little hard to tell with it all wrapped in plastic, but from what I can see,the crankshaft looks like an older one for a 2 pc rear main seal which is what your old engine had too.

Ford never made a forged crank for the 351, so unless you got some kind of aftermarket crank it's about like any other 351W crank

The blocks up till about 74 or so are said to be stronger
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-12-2017 at 11:32am
Where are you located? I have a standard rotation 351w I've been hanging onto forever that would need a rebuild but is fully dressed. I'd let it go for spare change
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KRoundy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-12-2017 at 6:28pm
With everyone here I bet you'll have that thing running in no time at all. Keep it up!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote William777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-12-2018 at 1:03pm
     

Making slow progress changing out the engine. I removed the four screws from the propeller shaft as in the pic. Is that all I need to do to separate it from the engine for removal? Thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote William777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-12-2018 at 1:21pm
Also, to remove the engine, should I just remove the bell housing bolts and lift just the block? Or, remove the bolts from the stringers and lift the whole thing? Or, leave the mounts in the boat and remove the engine from them? I'm concerned about removing the bolts from the stringers due to the age of the boat. As in, when I replace them, will the seating be as secure as if I left them in place? Thanks William
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-12-2018 at 2:01pm
Unbolt the mounts from the stringers and pull the engine/trans at one time.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote William777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-12-2018 at 3:27pm
Thanks and do I have the prop shaft disconnected by removing those four bolts? it didn't separate at all when I removed them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-12-2018 at 3:37pm
Yes, it's just the 4 bolts but, many times the coupling halves are rusted together. See if you can hammer a putty knife between them, an old wood chisel or a cold chisel. You may ding up the flange face but you can easily file it back flat.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote William777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2018 at 12:01am


The crankshafts look identical? The one on the right came with the new block. The timing chain on the right is from the guy who sold me the block. The left one is from my boat. The right one looks sturdier? Looks like it has a double row of teeth. I have never removed pistons from an engine, nor have I ever even seen inside the bottom end of an engine. Did those things today. I'm enjoying things so far. Combining and reassembly will start next week. Thanks for any input.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote William777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2018 at 12:03am
crankshaft on the bottom is from my boat
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2018 at 7:22am
A couple of things Bill

I don't know see you ever mentioned whether that new crankshaft was reverse rotation or normal rotation.

If you look at the picture below you'll see where the wick lines are on the crankshaft just inboard of where the rear main seal rides. The picture is a reverse rotation crank.

You can compare the wick lines on your 2 crankshafts to see if they're both the same.

If the new one is normal rotation and you use it in your RR setup you'll have a pretty healthy oil leak.



Also the timing set with the shiny aluminum hub and the nylon coated teeth should be in a landfill somewhere

The nylon coating eventually chips off and you then have timing issues
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote William777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2018 at 10:10am
Good morning and thanks. The wick lines are not going in the same direction, Thats fine because to my untrained eye, the old one looks fine. Also, I got the placement of those timing chains mixed up. The one on the right, with the nylon teeth came out of my boat, the other from the block guy. Ok, I'll use the all metal one. I'll also be redoing the seats. The old ones were "reupholstered" but the plywood frames were rotted. Any ideas on buying seats. or just rebuild using the old ones as templates? Grazia!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote William777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2019 at 4:42pm
It's been a while. I havent given up. I have the new block bottom end rebuilt in the boat. As I'm reattaching the transmission before doing the top end, I think I've hit a snag. I did not note the way this ?pressure plate? goes on the flywheel. The magnet on the wheel.creates a gap between the wheel and the plate. I don't remember there being a gap. Should there be one? Do I have something backwards? Thanks a lot. William
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2019 at 5:35pm
Originally posted by William777 William777 wrote:

The magnet on the wheel.creates a gap between the wheel and the plate.

William,
First, in the center of the damper are springs and not magnets. The springs dampen vibrations from the engine and do get weak with time. I would not put the engine back together using an old damper. For $100, get a new one. The Sachs damper is a superior design over the OEM.

BTW, you are missing spacers used between the OEM and the flywheel.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote William777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2019 at 5:56pm
Thanks for the link. So I have the parts correctly orientated except for spacers?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote William777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2019 at 6:04pm
I don't have any spacers from the tear down. Also I seem to remember that plate being flush to the flywheel. I my pics I don;t have the bolts tightened down because they would bend that plate. A link to new spacers?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote William777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2019 at 6:05pm
And, the magnet is a round plastic disc attached directly to the flywheel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote William777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2019 at 6:11pm
[IMG]uploads/17928/IMG_06711.JPG[/IMG Little black dics is magnet
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote William777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2019 at 6:13pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2019 at 6:16pm

The flywheel is on right but your damper plate needs to be flipped over, then it'll bolt down correctly.

The housings for the springs stick out farther on one side than the other.

And the magnet doesn't belong there

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2019 at 6:23pm
The magnet must have just mysteriously stuck itself there, you don't need or want it there or have any use for it there.

Like I said in the previous post, it looks like you could flip the plate over, give it a try but get rid of the magnet.

In your post back at 4:44 today, in the second picture it looks like some of the teeth on the ring gear are pretty worn where the starter pinion engages them. Maybe it's just the picture or maybe it's a good time to replace the ring gear.

By the way, I hope we don't get talking about moisturizing facial cream again
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote William777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2019 at 7:00pm
Oh my god thats funny. facial cream!! Ok that dang magnet just came off with no prob. No clue where that came from. Jeez. Mystery magnet. Grazzi.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote William777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-05-2019 at 3:15pm
The latest adventure in Cary's Boatyard involves the starter, The original one was seized but I took it apart and was able to get it going. Used it to start the engine at the beginning of the saga. May have just came up with my boats name, Saga, Anyway a friend who knows about these things told me that even though I got it to work, I should toss it and buy a new one. So I did. But. I bought the wrong one. A DBElectrical SFD0061. So as I was trying to install this beauty, I noticed that the depth of the nose end of the starter was not going in far enough to reach the teeth on the flywheel. So in my genius mind. I suspected I put the flywheel on backwards. So I took un-hitched the transmission and removed the screws that hold it to the stringers and removed the flywheel only to see that I had it in properly to begin with. I'm having a great time. So. now I'm under the impression I need to plunk down 165 bucks and get an ARCO 70201? Can someone confirm this? Anyone need a cheap SFD0061? Those aren't tears. they are not!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-05-2019 at 4:08pm
Originally posted by William777 William777 wrote:

Anyway a friend who knows about these things told me that even though I got it to work, I should toss it and buy a new one.

William,
There is nothing wrong with rebuilding and a starter is easy and VERY rebuildable. There are actually shops that do rebuilds and parts are redilly available for the DIY'r too. I guess your friend likes to spend money!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-05-2019 at 6:47pm
Well you have it figured out right.

The SFD0061 has a 2 inch nose on it and you need one with a 2 3/8 inch nose to mesh with the ring gear

The Arco 70201 has a 2 3/8 nose and will spin the engine the right way.

DB electrical sells a SFD0071 with the 2 3/8 nose and it spins the engine the right way too. (it may be listed these days as a 3200 CCW instead of SFD0071)

You could probably exchange what you have for one of those

Give them a call talk to a human voice and they should be able to get you the right starter with an exchange


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