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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-16-2017 at 9:02pm
Brian,
Have you had the opportunity to read my diary on the Atom? Jack's comment regarding "probably" having to remove the skins is false!! You WILL need to remove the skins for the frame repair!!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-16-2017 at 9:48pm
I have not but will tonight. I spoke with Jack today actually, He sent me some very helpful pics of his rebuild and I think I'm starting to pick up what your putting down. So I'm wondering...after I pull the engine, is the next step to flip over, remove old plywood and then pick away at the frame? Pete, I'm curious to know your through of using epoxies in wood boats for minor repairs? Or at all. Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-16-2017 at 10:10pm
Brian,
I feel epoxy does have a place with wood boats but not in all types of hulls. A traditional planked boat has too much movement between all the parts so no with epoxy. 5200 is the way to go. It's different with a ply hull since with the stability of plywood movement is almost zero so I feel epoxy is a good choice.

CPES should be used on all wood before assembly and then after partial assembly.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skutsch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-16-2017 at 10:17pm
So looking at a couple of threads, it appears the frame (stringers, ribs, etc) are all more of a natural wood color rather then the gray - green painted. Do you sand off all the paint before you CPES?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-16-2017 at 10:34pm
what type of wood is being used here?
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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-16-2017 at 10:40pm
Steve,
Yes, you what to get down to pretty bare wood. The knee and keel gussets need to be new since CC used scrap and the ply delams real easy CC used any left over paint for a bilge coating back then. Not much protection! Also, under all the gussets will be bare wood. Great for CPES and epoxy bonding the new ply gussets. As I have mentioned, mine and I feel yours and Brian's will literally unscrew.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-16-2017 at 10:43pm
Originally posted by Brian82683 Brian82683 wrote:

what type of wood is being used here?


CC used Mahogany for frames which is light and strong. Fir ply is fine for the gussets but do look for center veneer voids. You don't need to go with marine grade ply.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-16-2017 at 11:16pm
sounds good. I just read your diary, which I have actually read before. Cool story, lots of hard work involved there!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-17-2017 at 7:45am
Brian,
Do you have plans to restore the Jr? If so, certainly keep us informed on the progress and the pictures coming. I highly recommend keeping it as original as possible. There are a few non original things a PO did like the white deck stripping but we can advise when you get to that point. The first thing I'd do is pull the engine and the tank so you can flip the hull. Then start unscrewing the ply skins so you can go after the frame. Jack mentioned you may be able to save the hull sides and bottom but a closer inspection is needed. If the bright (varnished) hull sides can't be saved, then the problem comes up with the length. The hull side ply is scarfed for the length. Scarfing ply that is bright isn't easy with todays ply where the face veneer may only be about 1/16" or less. There is no room for sanding!! Deck ply is simply butt joined with butt blocks under the deck. Still with a bright finish care is needed. Transom ply is two 1/4" layers bonded together to get the curvature.
As mentioned, keep us informed.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juniorwoody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-17-2017 at 10:17am
Originally posted by Brian82683 Brian82683 wrote:

what type of wood is being used here?

I believe I read that CC used African mahogany but I prefer the Honduran. It has less grain changes but is a bit more expensive. You will find whatever you need at Berkshire Products which isn't to far from you and you can buy as needed. I am in the process of scarfing my plywood sheets now. Agree that clear finished areas will be difficult to get a good bond without glue squeeze out affecting stained finish. Have made almost all the scarf joints with well sharpened hand planes. You are welcome to stop by my place in Granby to see the frame if you like. I plan to glue up scarf joints very soon and all the prefit skins will be off to bond. If I remember right Pete was able to salvage his stem. Alan and I were not so lucky.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uk1979 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2017 at 10:30am
Nice find and still with the original engine.

From what I found on my 50”s CC… frames and planking are Lauan   (Philippine Mahogany) loose name as it’s not a true mahogany you guys may now it as Light Red Meranti, my guess CC used it as its cheaper and would match the Philippine ply made of the same wood back then, easy way to spot it … look at the grain for a small fleck on some of it.

Good luck with the rebuild.
Lets have a go
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-18-2017 at 11:34am
Roger,
I agree on the "Luan" CC used and it being cheap. Some of the frame members I found looked like they had been made from old pallets left over from shipments from the Philippines!!

Brian,
Don't be surprised when you open up the skins at the stem. Plenty of "dumb dumb" filling in the gaps. It's the linseed oil based bedding compound they used to fill in the gaps!! Speaking of gaps, I believe it was Alan who coined the term "finishing hatchets" CC used for the builds when he restored his Hurricane! Plenty on my Atom too as well as every wood CC of the era I've worked on.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-21-2017 at 11:01am
Looking to start next week....Just truing to reconfigure the wife's garage so I can work in the heat....on that note, is it important to keep the wood at one constant temp in where winter?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-21-2017 at 2:12pm
Brian,
The wood doesn't care about the temperature but it does car about humidity that affects the moisture content. Luckily, with a ply boat you don't need to worry too much about it. Just don't subject it to extremes.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dochockey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-25-2017 at 3:26pm
Wow what a great find
Ive been searching for a cc wood boat
any updates ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-25-2017 at 3:48pm
Originally posted by dochockey dochockey wrote:


any updates ?

I wish there were. It seems Brian was last on site back in August. I hate when this happens!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-25-2017 at 3:55pm
No progress has been made on that boat, however is it dry and safely stored indoors. The wife advised me I had to finish my other home projects before diving into another boat. Merry Christmas!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-25-2017 at 3:58pm
Brian,
Thanks for the update. Get those other projects done and make her happy so you can start on that boat!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-18-2018 at 5:45pm
Finally took the boat out of storage after letting her dry out for about a year. Lots of rot from years of being left out in the elements. I have two sheets left on the bottom of the boat. If I could figure out how to upload the images from my phone I would have more. but here is where we are at so far. On the engine mounts I located this " 55C02" can anyone confirm if this is a HIN or serial number.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-18-2018 at 5:58pm
Brian, the HID number is usually stamped on the deck cross member.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juniorwoody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-18-2018 at 6:43pm
Is that the only place they usually stamped the ser# Pete? I never found any stamped number on our utility. Seller said it was a 1950 and the serial number on the grey engine supported that so I guess that's what I'll go with.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-18-2018 at 6:55pm
Jack,
I too never found any stamped serial number on any part of the hull. My Atom did however have the serial number plate and it was on a forward port side hull frame. It's just another inconsistency of CC back then!!

Brian,
That number on the mount is the part number of the mount. Yes, you have some work ahead of you. Looks very familiar!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-18-2018 at 7:26pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Jack,
I too never found any stamped serial number on any part of the hull. My Atom did however have the serial number plate and it was on a forward port side hull frame. It's just another inconsistency of CC back then!!


both my Hurricane and Todd's Commuter had the numbers stamped on that frame cross member
it will be something like 55 H 568 meaning 1955, H for Hurricane and 568 is the hull number.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-18-2018 at 7:33pm
My guess is that someone worked on this boat before me, Im really not sure what's original on it. But did not see any stamps. Ill keep looking....Ill go take a peak at the engine serial number quick and post it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-18-2018 at 7:43pm


Anyone ever see a dog house like this before?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-18-2018 at 9:48pm
A few pics of the engine maybe this can help narrow down the year

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-18-2018 at 11:32pm
Brian,
See if there's a casting date on the block or head. Then add a year for seasoning the raw casting before machining and it should be pretty close to the year of the boat. I'm going to take a guess at 49 or 50 for the boat.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juniorwoody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-19-2018 at 12:47am
Grey Marine Casting Dates
That's an oldie.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-19-2018 at 7:45am
Originally posted by juniorwoody juniorwoody wrote:

Grey Marine Casting Dates
That's an oldie.

The "D" puts the year range at 46-47-48-49 then add the year + for seasoning the casting and the 49-50 is possible.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juniorwoody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-19-2018 at 10:40am
Yes Pete. 47,48,49 and 50 are all possibles
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