Carb leaking

KENO wrote: My favorite sorta hack maneuver that works a surprising number of times is to rap the float bowls in the area of the fuel inlet needle and seat with a screwdriver handle while the engine's running. Might be a little piece of junk between the needle and seat that gets dislodged and everything smooths out. You must be able to see big blobs of gas going into either the primary or secondary bores. Give that bowl a good rap

Lots here have been going to the Quick Fuel Same basic as the Holley but with better features like external float adjustment. They even have sight glasses built into the bowls for checking the fuel level. What Edlebrock?

Bill,
I meant to ask why the Edlebrock and not what! I was in a hurry and didn't proof read!

If it sat for a few years, it probably could use a good cleaning.

Not very hard to do and a lot cheaper than a new or rebuilt carburetor of any brand
.
Probably about 40 bucks or so for a rebuild kit with all the parts you need.

Get the list number off the front of the air horn to get the right kit.

You could also try that hack move that Pete referenced from that KenO guy

But with a few years of sitting the rebuild kit and a good cleaning is probably the cheap way to go.

Check the list # on the top right front of your present carb-go to Holley's website and find the Model # -this assures the right rebuild kit-I've never heard of anyone replacing the Hollies with Edelbrocks copy of the carter AFB???
Good luck

Quick Fuel works great for me .

Bought the kit today. Worked on it tonight and noticed three things. Both floats were set too high, o-rings on feed tube were shot, and someone along the way installed a new gasket over the old gasket on rear bowl. After two hours of razor blade work I know why they slapped a new one over the old, as it came off in pieces the size of a pin head.🙄. Installed it and it ran fine for the few moments it ran in the garage. No leaks so far anyway.
Now ncdoubleup has a quick fuel for sale that you have all been mentioning.

The transfer tube and end seals mentioned in
this thread are a good solution for the O ring problems on the transfer tube along with the nylon seals Gary mentioned for the float bowl screws

Most of the newer kits these days come with non stick gaskets too, but that didn't help you with the old ones.

Paint stripper has become my favorite gasket removal stuff. It softens them up as good as any real gasket remover I've tried.

It even smells the same, but you get a lot more for the money

That rear bowl gasket is a killer, no other way to describe it

fanofccfan wrote: what happens to the excess fuel from the pump that the carb does not use? Is there a bypass somewhere or does the mechanical pump just pump what's needed and not build more pressure? Just curious.

The rubber diaphragm in the pump just flexes when fuel isn't needed.

8122pbrainard wrote: fanofccfan wrote: what happens to the excess fuel from the pump that the carb does not use? Is there a bypass somewhere or does the mechanical pump just pump what's needed and not build more pressure? Just curious. The rubber diaphragm in the pump just flexes when fuel isn't needed.

We're probably saying the same thing basically, but the pump is designed with a max pressure that it will put out at no flow conditions, around 7 psi is a rough number that varies a little with manufacturers but as long as the needle and seat assembly in the carb can shut against the pressure you won't flood things due to excess level in the bowl(s)

Took the boat out last night and no leaks anymore. Also my buddy pulled up in his 96 yellow ski brendella and thought he should show me how fast the newer boats go.......I quickly dispelled that myth!😂😂

Ha! Actually sort of comfy with it. Didn't really go all the way into it. Just the easy parts. Also bought the quick fuel from Jay (ncdoubleup) so as to have a backup if my efforts failed! Boat value is increasing.......

Strong turn^^