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230 HP OMC Carburetor

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Gary S View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-25-2017 at 1:01pm
Lets figure out what you have first Here is where the numbers are that we need. Interesting thing about your carb is that it looks so new. Last owner must have been having issues and finally gave up would be my guess.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-25-2017 at 1:29pm
If you click on the link it'll take you to the carburetor I THINK you have now.

Take the flame arrestor off and take a picture of the air horn and the j tubes.

If you have the j tubes it's a marine Holley 4175 and really quite a decent carburetor that Holley made as a Quadrajet replacement.

Like Gary said don't spend any money yet, see what you have first

Maybe the previous owner can tell you something about how it ran


4175 pread bore marine carb
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-25-2017 at 1:34pm
Good job figuring out posting the pictures by the way.

Next we'll have you posting links, it's easier than pictures

We'll let Pete explain that to ya
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote adaily Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-25-2017 at 5:34pm
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/uploads/17156/IMG_2099.JPG

Top of Carburetor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-25-2017 at 7:02pm
If you take a picture of the air horn from the same angle as Gary's picture you should get the list number.

Sure looks to be a 4175 model like I mentioned before (and put the summit link up for) and it has vacuum operated secondaries that will only open as far as the engine load requires unless somebody really messed it up.

A rebuild kit based on the list number is probably around 40 bucks or so and would be worth a try..

If you were going to buy a Rochester I'd use the info that Steve posted

Right now I'm not thinking your problem is the carburetor since it works good at low speeds and up to your max of 3200 rpm unless the secondaries just plain don't open.

They'll only open under load on the water so you'd need the engine box up or off to be able to watch them or move the linkage manually like you previously mentioned.

Give answers to the previous questions when you get them and it'll be helpful



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote adaily Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-25-2017 at 7:17pm
Will do. 35mph winds today so not very good conditions for a sea trial. I'll see if I can get a better photo.

Nice to have all this expert help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter1234 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-25-2017 at 9:57pm
the carb you have is a replacement spreadbore. i would either spend the money for a marine edelbrock 600 , holley or one of the copycat style 600cfm or buy a rebuilt marine rochester quadra jet.. did anyone determine whether or not there are all marine parts on that boat? starter   ,distributor, alternator carb?
former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-25-2017 at 10:08pm
Originally posted by peter1234 peter1234 wrote:

the carb you have is a replacement spreadbore. i would either spend the money for a marine edelbrock 600 , holley or one of the copycat style 600cfm or buy a rebuilt marine rochester quadra jet.. did anyone determine whether or not there are all marine parts on that boat? starter   ,distributor, alternator carb?


The carb is indeed a replacement spread bore Holley but you should have added the word Marine

If you go back a number of posts you can find my link to one on the Summit website and you can look at his picture again and see the j tubes as a hint that it's marine (and expensive too)

When he gets the list number that will be helpful
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote adaily Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-25-2017 at 11:49pm


More pictures. Carb numbers,, Prop. hard to read but maybe enough to make a determination. Distributor.

Tony D
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2017 at 12:05am
80552 is the list number, it's a marine spread bore 650 cfm carb just like the one in the Summit link that was posted earlier today

The prop is a 12 inch diameter by 14 inch pitch Federal. Probably original. Not the problem

Somebody named TRBenj can tell you more on that

The distributor probably isn't a marine Mallory but a dual point automotive one. Don't see any brass vent screens in the body (a marine one has 2 vent screens) and the red caps have a small vent hole behind one of the clips. The marine ones from Mallory are blue and don't have the vent hole. Dual point distributor has the condenser on the outside because with 2 sets of points under the cap there's no room for the condenser.

it'll work if the weights and springs are operating properly but..................Under the right conditions it might blow your motor box up into the sky and send you flying too
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote adaily Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2017 at 12:17am
Thank you for the clarification.
Guessing aside from a possible adjustment the Carburetor is serviceable.
If I install the electronic module (no sparking points) can I expect not to blown up? The boat came with the Mallory module in the box.

Thank you for the help.

TONY D
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2017 at 12:32am
I think it's serviceable, some people may not

Even with the electronic module you still have spark as the rotor passes each of the eight terminals so the boom possibility is still there.

Look to see if there are any vent holes about 1/2 inch diameter with vent screens in them.

They're usually in the sides of the housing, sometimes in the bottom.

If the original tag is still on the distributor it should have a number on it Just as an example the number might be something like 2548201 just as an example or if it's older it might say something like YL-624 AV, again just an example. In your picture I think I see it screwed to the cap clip mount 180 degrees from the clip by the condenser. You van just barely see the edge of it I think.

Post that number and we should be able to tell you if it's marine or not
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2017 at 7:13am
Originally posted by adaily adaily wrote:

If I install the electronic module (no sparking points) can I expect not to blown up? The boat came with the Mallory module in the box.
TONY D

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


Why are you going to the EI conversion?

Tony,
The EI isn't going to fix the stumble nor will it provide any performance gains. Chances are high that the PO didn't want to or didn't know how to set dwell. Some have found that the EI's aren't reliable and others have had good luck with them. Stick with the points for now until you get the stumble fixed.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote swilliams Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2017 at 8:13am
Tony, your original distributor would have been a Mallory YL 520 CV and probably had the flat cap. Ken and others will get you running well!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2017 at 8:35am
Tony,
Regarding the prop, the 12x14 is not "over propping" the engine and not the problem. Get the boat out on the water and check to see if the carb secondary's are opening. I still feel that could be the problem.

What input if any have you gotten from the PO regarding the engine? Was he the one who installed the non original carb and distributor?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2017 at 9:29am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Tony,
Regarding the prop, the 12x14 is not "over propping" the engine and not the problem. Get the boat out on the water and check to see if the carb secondary's are opening. I still feel that could be the problem.

What input if any have you gotten from the PO regarding the engine? Was he the one who installed the non original carb and distributor?


Me and Pete agreeing again

And Pete, you're supposed to let Tim tell him about the prop and then agree but I figure we all think he should see ballpark numbers of about 4500 rpm and around 45 mph with that prop

Like mentioned earlier the carb seems good unless the secondaries are not opening at all so check that out. It's got small primary throttle plates and BIG secondaries so 3200 or so rpm might be all you get on the primaries before the secondaries are needed

And....check the timing at idle and at about 3000 rpm too like mentioned earlier.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2017 at 10:38am
What these guys said... and also double check that you don't have two plug wires switched.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2017 at 11:39am
Originally posted by JoeinNY JoeinNY wrote:

What these guys said... and also double check that you don't have two plug wires switched.


I like that suggestion

1 2 7 5 6 3 4 8 for a reverse rotation Chevy going clockwise around the cap
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote adaily Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2017 at 1:55pm
Gents,

Thanks for all the help, Here are the numbers off of the brand new Distributor.
2548201H

As far as asking the PO a question. I tried once and was disappointed in the answer, enough said.

I'll check the firing order, and the secondaries. I don't suspect the wires to be crossed as it runs so well, no shaking, easy to start, although it does have that tell tale cough once in a while. Flat Mallory distributor cap. Hate those, had a Ford 427 that used that type of cap. There's a very tiny tin clip inside the cap that comes loose and ruins the cap in short order. That was a long time ago, hopefully they are better now.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2017 at 2:46pm
That's the number for an automotive dual point , it'll work but there's always that boom factor
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote adaily Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2017 at 3:20pm
There is a difference in the part number from all the like distributors I looked at on line.

I could not find a single one with the part number ending in an A
There are 2548201 numbers but not 2548201A

Once I finish the other tests recommended above I'll see about acquiring a "Marine" distributor.

Tony
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote adaily Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2017 at 3:24pm
2548201 H is what I was meaning to say. It's the H that doesn't show up anywhere but on my particular distributor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote swilliams Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2017 at 6:04pm
Yeah Tony but when you get everything ironed out, that Chevy has tons of power.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2017 at 11:03pm
Originally posted by adaily adaily wrote:

There is a difference in the part number from all the like distributors I looked at on line.

I could not find a single one with the part number ending in an A
There are 2548201 numbers but not 2548201A

Once I finish the other tests recommended above I'll see about acquiring a "Marine" distributor.

Tony


That N at the end just signifies changes or variations over the years

In the beginning there was the 2548201, first variation had an A tacked on the end......then the next was a B .............you can figure out the rest

That basic part number has been around probably since the small block chevy showed up in 1955
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote adaily Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2017 at 12:58am

    Update:::::::

Tonight I had a chance to try and answer some of the questions I've been asked pertaining
To this engine issue. i replaced the plugs, most were looking OK, but some were a bit dark, All were firing,. I also checked the firing order, OK. I checked the RPM's against my timing light. Perfect right on the mark. I tried to check the timing but the flywheel has one mark, so it's difficult to measure the advance. Suffice to say it does advance seemingly at the correct rate.
I removed the distributor cap. The first thing I noticed was that both sets of points were severely misaligned. The points do not seem to be the correct set for this distributor. I did my best to check the gap, set it at 16, replaced the cap and started the engine. Ran fine, shut it off and removed the cap again. One set is hardly making contact? Enclosed are a couple pictures.   Let me know what you think. I was tempted to install the electronic module but held off.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2017 at 7:58am
Dumb question... you aren't setting the gap on both sets of points at the same time, are you? There is a mechanical offset between the 2 sets (the purpose of having dual points is longer total dwell) so you'll need to rotate the engine slightly between adjusting the 2 sets. The follower needs to be on the tip of the cam lobe when you set the gap. Checking dwell afterwards is a good idea too- this will tell you if they're both working well together.

Regardless, if that isn't a marine distributor, you'll want to replace it. Don't take Ken's lighthearted description as anything but a serious explosion hazard.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2017 at 9:23am
Those are Mallory points, you can see the funny little Mallory M symbol in your bottom photo.

Don't resist the temptation, put your conversion kit in since the points look way out of alignment.

At least it will give you some info about whether it's an ignition problem or not.

And it's not a marine distributor but we already mentioned that
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2017 at 10:09am
Might it not just be easier to remove the secondary point set and see if he can get it to run before adding another variable?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2017 at 10:26am
I thought about that too Gary, but I wasn't sure what condition either set of points were really in since they were so misaligned.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote adaily Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2017 at 2:17pm
Gents::

I did notice the slight offset between the two sets of points and rotated the engine accordingly. It was a pain setting the points because they were flopping around. I checked to see if the points were correct to the distributor, they are, and in the picture they are shown misaligned? That's odd.

On the timing. There is the single engraved line on the harmonic balancer and the little arrow attached to the block. I noticed people have affixed a tape type measure to the harmonic balancer which gives an accurate reading. The timing mark on my engine was about 1 inch north of the marker at 1000 rpm. Moved about 1..25 inches at 3,000rpm.

If I opt out of using the Mallory, what's a good replacement?

Thanks everyone,
Tony
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