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Damage boat project

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Mike9812121298 View Drop Down
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    Posted: March-24-2017 at 5:50pm
Looking at getting this damaged 1997. What do u guys this of the damage and what would be a good price to pay?



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Grand Poobah
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2017 at 7:13pm
Hard to say without knowing if the rest of the boat is OK. It must have taken on water up to flotation buoyancy with those big holes.

If engine/tranny & upholstery is savageable -$1500.

There is a reason the seller doesn't want to get it fixed.
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2017 at 7:25pm
Link to add

The price looks pretty reasonable but if you could get it for less go for it.
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tryathlete View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2017 at 8:11pm
Wow that's quite a bit of damage. Wonder what kind of hours it will take to fix. Is that more work than replacing stringers? Would like to see this boat repaired by someone here just so I could see how it's done and what it takes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2017 at 8:05am
Mike,
Have you seen the 97 in person? If so, were you able to inspect the hull for internal damage? Visible cracks in the hull etc.? As Chris mentioned, there is a reason the seller isn't fixing it. Is it a salvaged boat by the insurer?

Welcome to CCfan. Keep us posted as to what you end up doing.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nautique2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2017 at 12:04pm
Ouch, that's a bad day on the lake. That must have made a huge crunch on impact. I'm sure an experienced boat restoration business could fix that up like new.
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Mike9812121298 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike9812121298 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2017 at 1:58pm
Sorry it's a 94, but I'm going to go take a look at it. My guess is the guy didn't have insurance on it and to fix him self it's going to cost 8-10k.   I found that things like this gives people a reason to go buy a new boat.

Going to try to find the parts used if I end up getting it. Anyone know the part numbers? What year boats could i pull parts from?
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tryathlete View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2017 at 2:04pm
Did you see the 95 being parted out on the other thread? Maybe make one good boat and sell the extra parts. Might be a cheap date.
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Mike9812121298 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike9812121298 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2017 at 7:34pm
Just picked up the boat for 1,840. On the way home now. Falange doesn't look that bad.

Here's a link to the video someone made about 7 years ago of the same boat.

https://youtu.be/OGVMTBTslS0







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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2017 at 8:21pm
Whew that's a beautiful boat! I'm hoping you keep us all informed of your progress with photos and progress reports. You must be excited about the project.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skutsch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2017 at 8:26pm
It would also be interesting to know if the motor was running and in gear when it hit what ever it hit. Did the motor start??? Aside from the bottom damage I lover the color scheme!
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Blamey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Blamey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2017 at 8:54pm
Trailer alone is probably worth $800.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2017 at 10:50pm
Are you going to do the glass work yourself?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter1234 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2017 at 10:18am
it would be nice to get the fuel and drivetrain out of that boat and get it upside down for repairs
former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 91nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2017 at 10:52am
I did a repair on a CC with virtually identical damage myself, it was a little daunting tearing out the entire section around the rudder and skeg leaving a giant hole in the boat and starting again.

It's fixable!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2017 at 10:56am
What did it actually wind up costing you in $$/hours to do a similar repair?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote emccallum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2017 at 11:00am
Subscribed. Cool restoration. The rest of the boat seems to be in pretty good shape. If the motor and rest of the boat is good, you can spend 8k and still be in good shape.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 91nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2017 at 11:09am
Originally posted by tryathlete tryathlete wrote:

What did it actually wind up costing you in $$/hours to do a similar repair?


It was a long time ago,In glass materials it was probably under $ 500, it took about 20 hours, most of the time was prep and making a jig to re -aline everything, I took some pics, will find them and post
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2017 at 11:27am
$500/20 hours seems light but if that's the case $1840 is one hell of a deal. Mike is going to have to show us the job!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike9812121298 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2017 at 2:17pm
I'm going to tear it down this morning and get a better idea what's going On.   I'm rolling the dice on if the engine runs or not. I didn't start it before buying, he did tell me if I wanted to hear it run to bring a battery and gas. He was telling me I need a 51 drive shaft, does that sound right? He also suggested to only buy that new. Does that sound right?

If u could find those pics that would be really cool. I've only gone glass a few times so I'm no expert by any means. Got it cleaned up last night, I ways have to clean the project before starting it.





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2017 at 2:29pm
Go with the A.R.E. drive shaft (double-taper). About the same cost as a "standard", but a better unit. If I were doing it, I'd pull the motor and transmission and flip the boat over for glass repairs. Don't go "cheap" on things under the water line...

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fanofccfan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2017 at 3:23pm
She shines and looks like a diamond from the waterline up! I agree on the flipping advice as well. Good project to watch for us.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote emccallum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2017 at 3:28pm
That looks like an awesome find. Gel looks real shiny, and interior looks original.

I agree with JQ on the double taper shaft. Easier install and removal. A bent strut or fins can be straightened, although yours may be beyond repair. I sent my bent strut to Delta propeller. I used a stock style cutlass bearing. I dont recall where I got it, but I can look it up if you need it.

Go with a PSS dripless packing and a new CNC prop! With the deal you got, go big! We can help you do that. Pulling the motor isnt very hard. I used my tractor bucket.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flyweed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2017 at 4:04pm
agree with the last few posts...pull the engine and drive and flip it over....so much easier to do a good quality glass repair on the "top" side then underneath. :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2017 at 4:27pm
Great looking boat, it will be a keeper once fixed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike9812121298 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2017 at 6:37pm
quick questions, The boat is org a efi engine, the guy gave me a box with the org efi setup. He was telling me that they had a bunch of issues with the efi back in the day, so the factory would swap out and carb them. Theres a holly carb on it now, I would like to put it back to efi, Does anyone know why they would have removed it?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flyweed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2017 at 6:49pm
If they swapped out the old Pro Tech Ign. for the carb setup, you are MUCH better off already! Just do a search here on the forums, and you'll see the original setup was known to have problems, so people did the swap out all the time. My boat also has the swap out, and it's a much better running engine with the Holly Carb. If they have already swapped it out on yours, it was for good reason.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2017 at 6:59pm
The carb is much easier to troubleshoot, It's a tradeoff, gas economy vs. diagnostic time.

Many on this site use US Composite materials.. If you call them, they will help you decide what to buy.

I would put on extra layup layers into your patch, so there is no doubt as to the strength.

You may want to make some sort of alignment jig to make sure the strut & rudder mounting surface lay up square.

Another option could be to strip the engine & interior, then take it to a fiberglass shop for the glass work. They have slings to roll it upside down.   Might be worth the money. Ask for epoxy resin.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote emccallum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2017 at 10:34pm
I had the Protec EFI on my 95. There was a reason they only used it for one year! Some of the replacement parts are NLA. I had trouble with my EFI not starting and scrapped the system and went with the carb and electronic ignition. Pretty pricey to swap over, but it has been bullet proof for many years. I think I sold my whole EFI set up to another CCFAN for a few bucks. He was trying to keep his running. I vote for leaving the carb and the hull EFI decal!.

Also, if your low oil light on the dash is not working it is b/c the retro kit did not allow for it. There is a way to make it work, and I can check mine to tell you how to wire it. It lights up when the key is turned to on. Goes off after starting.

carb retrofit

ignition

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 91nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2017 at 10:40am
The glass materials number is about right, when I say 20 hours,it was about that number but over a two week period. I had access to all the right tools/equipment/advice and materials,and have done a lot of glass work on other boats.

Unfortunately I did not document the repair very well,the damage was virtually identical to Mike's boat.

The repair started with grinding out the rudder port area but I ended up grinding all the way to the shaft log chasing down the fractures and cracks and up the sides of the stringers and up the transom past the exhaust outlet.

I did not turn the boat over.

It started with a new rudder port,shaft,strut and coupler, the area the strut bolted to was severely compromised but had not shifted,so I left that area as it was (temporarily) and used it to align the rudder port area using the new shaft and temp bolting the strut to the damaged area.

I cut out the rudder port area and feathered it back to the stringers,this is the only pic I have prior to actually cutting out the area around the rudder port,if you look closely at the area where the strut mounts you can see the fractures and delamitation in that area but it had not shifted,so I left it temporarily to set up the rudder port area.
I then cut out the area around the rudder port and feathered it back,mounting the new rudder port onto steel plates that where tek screwed into the hull from underneath

Originally the rudder port was not flush with the hull (underneath)I opted to flush mount it by recessing into the hull,this is what it looked like from underneath with the formwork fixed to the hull.
Leaving the rudder port in place I thin layered matt directly to the rudder port,you can see the actual area I ended up cutting by the sunlight showing through the thin area, I then drilled the holes for the four mounting bolts and refilled them with resin/talc mixture to mark there location (not shown)



Underneath after the formwork was removed


I then repeated the process around the strut area (no pics) Once that area was set up (thin) I then ground back and feathered the entire area up to the shaft log,up the sides of the stringers and up past the exhaust outlet.Underneath I feathered back the same area. (no pics)

I cut up and numbered multiple pieces of heavy mat, and kevlar offcuts and gradually thinner matt material (no pics)and prepped the area with acetone and heat to ensure it was moister free.and using two people we layered up the entire repair in in one hit starting from up the transom,and backed out and finished at the shaft log, as it cured we worked back over the strut,rudder port areas with multiple layers and built it up to over 3/4 of an inch thick,no wood was used.

Underneath we layered up (thin) and faired back as the strength of the repair was taken care of inside.I then wet sanded the entire repair smooth These are the only pics I have of the result, I hope this helps.


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