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Damage boat project

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tryathlete View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2017 at 12:03pm
What a great forum. What an awesome set of data to encourage Mike in his quest. Mike, you've clearly come to the right place!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dreaming Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2017 at 3:32pm
Mike, nice to have another Seattle CCF.   there are a couple of us on this side of the mountains, so if you need to look at another similar model for reference, let me know.    
Sounds like a nice deal if you can get the motor running.   I too swapped out the EFI (TBI) for carb and electronic ignition last year, I think you should keep the carb set up the way you purchased it.    Where do you plan on boating?     Based on your user name, I am guessing you live in Belltown?   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Donald80SN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2017 at 4:03pm
Very fixable, but check out the transmission for possible damage too. Sometimes they can get hurt when a prop and drive shaft get hurt. ARE double taper shaft is indeed the way to go. It can be a great boat once again. Get your new prop from Delta Propellers, they are a site sponsor and you can save by using discount code DP5CCFO8. There is a banner or Ad in the left hand corner of this site. Also, you may find one used on Ski it again .com. Gel Coat likely was made by Spectrum Color and it can be found at www.iboats.com. Look up your gel by MFG or Correct Craft.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike9812121298 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2017 at 11:24pm
I live in Bonney lake, so I'm about 1 min away from lake tapps. What city r u in? I found a local brand new oj 14x18 right hand ( https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bpo/6045085011.html )
I wanna use the boat for wake boarding and wake sufing. Will this prop work or better to get a different one?

Any chance someone could post a link to the correct driveshaft, sounds like double taper will be the way to go.

I'll also need one of these? http://shaftseal.com/en/categories/300000116

I ordered a blue top battery last night, trying to get some parts order so I'm not waiting on them. Is there anything else I'm missing?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2017 at 11:49pm
A.R.E. link give them a call and have them tell you how to measure what you need.
Then check here skidim
see if it's cheaper to go direct or with Skidim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2017 at 10:02am
Guessing the shaft will be used to position strut?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2017 at 10:02am
Considering you can get a brand new 422 for $350 not sure I see that CL prop being worth $300?? Maybe 1/2 that. A 422 or a 224 would be a much better prop on that boat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2017 at 10:43am
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

Guessing the shaft will be used to position strut?

Chris,
Guessing aside, using the shaft is a good method. It's the reverse of when alignment is done, the strut is already in place and you find that "happy spot" where the shaft turns freely and is centered in the log. For strut position, the shaft is bolted up to the trans, centered in the log and then the strut can be located. Final engine alignment is still required.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 91nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2017 at 10:47am
Mike,
Can I suggest before you purchase a prop,rudder,shaft,strut and rudder port confirm the motor runs,it may be a deciding factor on whether you proceed with the repairs or how you go about the repairs to the hull.

If its ok I would change the fluids and winterise ,it may be some time before you can run it again.

Same with the gearbox,if the engine runs you could access it to some point if its ok.

Ask yourself this -if the motor needs a rebuild and the gearbox is suspect would you still go ahead with the repairs to the hull?
Either way it would be better to know now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2017 at 11:31am
I think Mike is "all in" and not too concerned if there's an engine or transmission issue. If he needed, I have the feeling Mike will procure driveline in a similar fashion to the boat. It wouldn't surprise me if Mike found a GT40 and velvet drive for $500!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Blamey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2017 at 11:52am
I have a 422 that I'd like to sell. I got it in June last year and used it for the rest of the summer.

Last I checked it was in perfect condition. It has never been repaired. I got it for my Sport Nautique but since the engine is a little tired I need something that spins a little faster as my max rpm is a little low. I'd let it go for $280 shipped, which is basically $100 less then what I cost me with shipping.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote emccallum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2017 at 1:01pm
boat parts

Saw this today. Not positive it will work on yours but others should know for sure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dreaming Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2017 at 2:06pm
Originally posted by Mike9812121298 Mike9812121298 wrote:

I live in Bonney lake, so I'm about 1 min away from lake tapps.



Hi Mike, I am in NE Tacoma/Federal way, but we consider Lake Tapps to be our lake of choice for now.   I'll look for you this summer.    
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike9812121298 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2017 at 2:25pm
Your right I should try starting up the engine, but it's a hell of a lot cheaper to believe that it runs perfect then to find out there's a issues with it. Lol

Using Amec website there saying the 480 prop for wakeboarding? Has anyone used this prop before? I think I'm going to pass on the craigs one. My problem is I have to remind my self not to be to cheap. I can usually do pretty good on finding a good deal, last summer I picked up a 90 bayliner for 1800, used it all summer then sold it in September for 4,300 without doing anything but putting gas into it.

I'm going to make some calls this morning and see if I can get some parts ordered. I'm trying to have this boat done in a month.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Blamey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2017 at 3:10pm
Originally posted by Mike9812121298 Mike9812121298 wrote:

Your right I should try starting up the engine, but it's a hell of a lot cheaper to believe that it runs perfect then to find out there's a issues with it. Lol



Turn the key, I bet she Purrs.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike9812121298 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-30-2017 at 2:47am
been trying to get the work done on the boat. Just need to take it down a little bit more. As i was sanding it down the underside didnt look to bad, everything still seems to be in line. The plan is to just lay the fiberglass down on the top.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-30-2017 at 7:48am
Originally posted by Mike9812121298 Mike9812121298 wrote:

The plan is to just lay the fiberglass down on the top.

Mike,
I suggest going deeper into the cracks that are evident on both the inside and outside of the hull. By routing them out farther, you may be able to make sure there isn't any disbonding between the layers of glass.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike9812121298 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-30-2017 at 8:11pm

Got some time this morning to get it fired up. Checks that off the list of things to do. Engine sounds good, it didn't seem to be sucking up much water. Do I have it hooked up right? I only
Let it run for 5-10 seconds at a time.






Here's the YouTube video of it running

https://youtu.be/k0oxPX0LuzA




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-30-2017 at 8:35pm
I would check raw water pump impeller. If the boat lost contact with the water during the accident it may have been damaged.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flyweed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-30-2017 at 8:35pm
Sounds good to me from your video. You didn't really run it long enough to suck up much water. I suggest installing the "Timmy T" mod, so you can hook it up to a hose, and run it longer. Check your engine oil, and transmission fluid and look for water intrusion, and also any foreign contaminants like metal filings, etc. Just good peace of mind.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-30-2017 at 8:37pm
After looking at your picture you have it hooked up wrong. You need to supply water before it connects to the raw water pump. Water flows from the inlet on the boat hull then through the trans cooler then to the RWP. It looks like you disconnected it at the RWP so it was sucking air.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skutsch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-30-2017 at 8:48pm


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-30-2017 at 8:50pm
Originally posted by desertskier desertskier wrote:

After looking at your picture you have it hooked up wrong. You need to supply water before it connects to the raw water pump. Water flows from the inlet on the boat hull then through the trans cooler then to the RWP. It looks like you disconnected it at the RWP so it was sucking air.

To me, it looks like the water supply is on the suction side of the RWP.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flyweed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-30-2017 at 8:53pm
isn't the end IN the rubbermaid bucket, the end that hooks onto the intake in the boat bottom? That's what it looks like to me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-30-2017 at 8:55pm
OK. I guess it just looked strange to me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-30-2017 at 9:08pm
It runs! Check that off the list. Back to work on the hull!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter1234 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-30-2017 at 9:13pm
I don't care how you cut it that boat was a great deal . for me it would be good sweat equity and a learning project. I hope everything goes good for you. The one thing I would do though is follow Pete's advice about exposing everything down as deep as you can to make sure you get anything that is hidden damage in the layers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote emccallum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-30-2017 at 9:44pm
Make sure the filter has an o ring and is not loose and sucking air. Several different ways to run boat out of water.

I unplug the hose at the top of the trans cooler and use an old u shape washer machine rubber waste line. One end over the trans cooler and a hose stuffed up the other. Fits perfect. Crank motor and turn hose on. It takes a few minutes before water starts coming out of exhaust. Some say the cooler is fragile, but I have not had any issues. It is just an easy place for me to get too. I leave the rubber washer machine u hose in the boat. Has worked for me for about 20 years. Same hose!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MechGaT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-30-2017 at 10:08pm
Looks like you have a good helper there with you.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike9812121298 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2017 at 4:44pm
I took the end coming from the bottom of the boat and put that in the bucket. That one goes into filter. Tried to show on the pics.   

I was working on the boat last night and noticed the heads had gt stamped on them. This would make them gt heads correct? I did some research this morning and learned that it would also have the 3 lines on the end of the head. I was reading they didn't put out the gt40 engine until 95? What kind of hp difference is between gt and the lower heads?

I got some work done on the hull, I did some more cuting and sanding last night. The strut mount looks pretty solid, the rudder mount I added some glue before I fiberglass to make that connection from when it ripped out of there. Next I'm going to sand down the glue to make it level and flat.   Then I will be packing on the fiberglass.








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