New to me 78 Tique

Put the new springs on. Thanks Ken. They work great. Boat is good for the most part. Timing set around 8-10degrees. And advanced nicely up to 34. Boat went to 4300 rpm at full throttle. Idles well and runs strong. One issue is under load the boat will sometimes shut off when putting into gear. First click of the throttle is fine but when you throttle up it just shuts off. This is intermittent. When it doesn't shut off it throttles up and drives great down the lake. Timing still? Or carb? We still haven't gotten to check the fuel pump pressure but it is running good other than the holeshot issue.

I would also check the transmission neutral safety switch. If it is going bad, it can give those types of symptoms.

JQ

Neutral safety is bad and on our list to replace. It is currently bypassed (both wires on one post). Accelerator pump does spray when pumped

Holy crap, me and Pete agreeing about things..........again.

The NSS only keeps it from starting if it's not right.

Otherwise, every time you took it out of neutral the engine would turn off and boating wouldn't be much fun at all

Does it shut off, or stall? Meaning, do you lose power to your dash or to your circiit breaker? What do you have to do to start it up again?

David,
Better get the VOM out. I'd start at the ignition switch and check both the start position and the run position. Wiggle the key while you're checking the volts. Sounds like you aren't getting the power to the ignition when you are cranking the engine over.

EDIT: This is your statement that tells me the ignition switch may be the problem.

samudj01 wrote: But if you quickly turn the key and let off it fires as you let off the key..

I'll second my thanks to KenO for the springs. They did the trick.

I'll adds some observational detail. I saw the cut off problem occur when the boat had been idling for a minute or two and then was put back in gear to pull up a skier. I was not able to reproduce the problem by stoping, idling in neutral for a 5-10 seconds and then putting it back in gear. I am wondering if the increased idle time may be related to the problem.

My novice speculation is floats or fuel pump.

I think I seen you on the lake Saturday afternoon, the Ski Tique was looking good and sounding good, got to love those Ski Tiques. I was in my Carolina Skiff. I have not had my Ski Tique in the water this year, hope to change that this weekend, If all goes well with the new quick fuel carb., wedge plate, fuel pump and alternator and a complete tune up, it will be a good day!   This is a picture of the boat I had before the Ski Tique, it run a little better than the Ski Tique.

Hi Dave

Pete must be at HD today or something.

Here's an early PCM wiring diagram and on the key switch you'll find

Bat terminal - red wire,that's power into the switch
Ign terminal - purple wire to ballast resistor
Sol terminal -white wire to starter solenoid
Acc terminal-accessory terminal probably has nothing hooked to it

If you want to check the switch, unhook the purple and white wires from the switch. With them disconnected you won't be trying to start the engine or putting power to the coil while you're testing the switch.

Take your voltmeter and check between the Bat terminal and ground, it should be roughly 12 volts

Now hook the voltmeter between ground and the Ign terminal and turn the key to the Run position, don't go all the way to start. It should read the same roughly 12 volts as you had at the Bat terminal.

Leave the voltmeter right where it is and turn the key to Start, you should still have the same roughly 12 v on the meter because going to Start puts power to both the Ign and Sol terminals.

A little redundant, but you can now hook the voltmeter between the Sol terminal and ground , turn the key to Start and should get the same reading of roughly 12 volts.

Pete has you jiggle the key to see if the switch acts funny in either position, He likes to jiggle things, it'll tell you if the contacts are getting worn or overly sensitive.

When you're done, hook the wires back up correctly otherwise some funny things will happen when you turn the key

There are other ways to check the switch too, like checking for resistance in each position but this will work for you.

8122pbrainard wrote: David, Yup, Ken nailed it - I just got home from the HD. Tough day too - All by myself for 8 hours in the lumber/building materials dept. and 54 bundles of shingles!! That's a tough one for this old body!! Kens instructions are good but, I'm surprised while he was giving instructions, he didn't mention anything about oil!

They're trying to kill ya Pete

You should move across the parking lot to the Auto Zone, I'm not sure how you'd look in a bright red shirt though   

You could be in charge of selling points and condensers

Hello, Welcome to Auto Zone !!!!!!!!!!!!

My name is Pete B. and today we have two for one Fram Filters on sale. Also, if you buy five Casting Plugs we will throw in one Freeze Plug for free !!!!!!!

Got the vom on the ignition switch. 12.4v on all cases tested that we were looking for volts. Other thoughts? I'm here tomorrow too. I also hooked up a fuel pressure guage. Hoping to test tomorrow...is idle on the hose all that is needed to test the fuel pump or do I need to be at higher rpm and under load?

samudj01 wrote: Got the vom on the ignition switch. 12.4v on all cases tested that we were looking for volts. Other thoughts? I'm here tomorrow too. I also hooked up a fuel pressure guage. Hoping to test tomorrow...is idle on the hose all that is needed to test the fuel pump or do I need to be at higher rpm and under load?

Testing the pump under load on the water is best. One thing to keep in mind is that if the pump is losing suction from something like a plugged filter or anti siphon valve your discharge pressure will also drop/fluctuate and maybe fool you into thinking your pump is bad.

I think you key switch is OK, if you test the volts like Pete says while cranking, you'll get a lower voltage because of the big load being put on the whole electrical system by the starter.

If he followed what I wrote in my long winded post on testing the switch he has already checked for voltage at the Ign terminal with the switch in start

To eliminate the possibility of anti-siphon valve or hose issues feeding the fuel pump, test with your fuel pressure gauge when pulling fuel out of a 2 gallon can, easy to do with a length of fuel hose. That way you've eliminated anything that could starve the pump. If you still have no fuel pressure, you've got a bad pump. If your pressure rises when pulling from the temporary fuel source, you've got fuel line or anti siphon issues.