New to me 78 Tique

We put a jabsco impeller in. No timing yet. Need to get a light and read up on that. We are working on the trailer as well. Where would the VIN most likely be located? I haven't found it yet.

The boat sounds great. Looks like you got a bargain.

Watching your video where it shows the engine running with the cover up.
The water pump belt looked very loose to me. Could be a source of your high RPM temp rise.

samudj01 wrote: Question: Is there a way to remove the Pitot without unscrewing from the transom. There looks to be a pin. I want to take it off bc it is in danger of getting hurt by the bunks on my sport trailer. Any thoughts?

David,
The pitot is spring loaded. Flip it up out of the way.

Have a 12x14 prop on the Tique now. Specifically the prop reads 12ELLIS14R. Would we get noticeably better performance out of a different prop? Anyone have one for sale or for trial at White Lake?

Boat hasn't been driven since White Lake. While there we learned a lot and got started on a tune up. From the White Lake thread:

          Thanks Donald for the shout out for the tow of shame. Thank goodness that electrical gremlin surfaced late in the day, it had come and gone another time with us not getting the chance to chase it. Unfortunately it came back during a tune up lesson that Tim Benjamin and Dave Hart were giving me (we didn't have a VOM or test light on the water to track it down so a tow was in order). Thanks to Mark and Patrick (Team PCM) for finding the elec issue quickly on dry land. And Tim stepped up Sunday morning and gave a tutorial on points and setting timing before hitting the road for his long trip back to CT. I had a great time and learned a lot, and of course saw old friends and met new ones.   Hope to see you all at Badin later this year if not sooner.

Once home we went back and forth a LOT on whether to buy a Holley or rebuild our Edelbrock due to a float level issue and a gasket leak. We looked for a deal on a Holley and found nothing. We could have bought a rebuilt unit and new flame arrestor to fit but decided for the money we would try a rebuild and wedge plate on our Edelbrock 1409. If this doesn't work well, we will keep an eye out for a Holley. Planning to pop the wedge and carb on this weekend and try to fire her back up. Wish us luck. Any tricks to priming a dry carb?      

Great looking boat! love the pics!

Both of those mixture screws are for idle mixture

Here's a link to the tuning manual, it's a whole lot different from a Holley. Plenty of tuning instructions

manual

Could be a fuel pressure issue or partially clogged inlet screens, there is a screen for each bowl. It's easy to miss the one for the left hand bowl. edit not so much the screen itself but the passage upstream of the screen which can load up with junk

Each bowl feeds 1 primary and 1 secondary nozzle, unlike a Holley with a primary bowl and a secondary bowl

samudj01 wrote: . Thoughts on this? Is there possibly an issue with the spacer and the wedge?.

Logically you would have to say there's a problem with the spacer/wedge or the carburetor rebuild. take your pick

What was the original issue you were trying to resolve? Sounds like it was a float issue of some kind earlier in the thread

You must have had to reset the floats due to the wedge installation

Take a look at the following video. I go to full throttle three times. The second time I go up and leave it. The bogging can be heard on that the best.

Carb video

I forget but the changes to the floats we're within a 16th to so. Not much at all.

Is it possibly a timing issue? I wouldn't think so since it runs well up to that point. Def seems fuel/carb related

Are you sure you have adequate fuel flow to the carb? It might be worth running from a fuel can to eliminate fuel line issues from tank to pump. Or put a fuel pressure gauge inline to monitor if it drops above 4000 rpm.

Could this issue come from an air leak due to a bad gasket seal? When putting the wedge on we had to use force bending the bow studs back a little. Then when putting the carb on we had to use force and do just the opposite, again on the bow studs (secondary side of carb). The issue was due to the wedge holes not being elongated enough. So our studs were kinked a bit. With hindsight I am questioning whether we could have had an air leak on the secondary side. We thought they tightened down well enough. I am confident we were able to get good seals on the primary side. I feel like we are so close. By the way, the wedge gets the carb level with the gunwales so it seems like a good angle fit.

Thanks Keno and others for your suggestions. I spoke with Edelbrock this morning and after a long conversation I believe the elec choke could be our issue. It wasn't working properly and we didn't really care...who needs a choke to test a carb on a boat. Welllllllllll, that choke butterfly that was wide open at idle and while the boat was off is believed to have been sucked shut at high RPM making for a rich condition and then relieving itself once back down in RPMs. So, next up is to try it again with the same setup but fix the choke butterfly. Looking like a long week of just thinking about it before I can get back to the boat.

I posted a reply to the parts wanted, my name is Jerry, I have the red 1978 ski tique that's on Badin Lake, my boat has the 302 commander engine also. I had some problems with my engine last year. I replaced the points, plugs, condenser, rotor button, plug wires, checked ignition timing, same problem, boat would run great and just start slowing down, wide open it would run pretty good. So I ordered me a 600 cfm quick fuel carb, installed new carb, same problem with on new problem, fuel was dripping from the new carb when the engine was off, I could see the float level was off because the new carb has sight glasses to check the float levels. I installed a 12 degree holley wedge plate to level the carb and the sight glasses look good, no more fuel dripping down the carb when the engine was off, but still had the same problem. Installed a fuel pressure gauge and the fuel pressure was all over the place, the fuel pressure was buzzing from 0 psi the 7 psi. , when I got back to the dock the engine just stalled and would not start, looked at the fuel pressure gauge and had no fuel pressure with the motor turning over. I replaced the fuel pump and now the fuel pressure is steady at 6 psi, I have not had the boat back in the water since I replaced the fuel pump but it runs great on the trailer. I think the fuel pump was the problem all along, I think running easy the fuel pump could not keep up and the motor would slow down, running wide open the pump could keep up, until it just finally stopped pumping at all. I have the stock holley that came on the boat if you want to try it out. I hope this helps you out, cause I know these problems are a pain, I could have saved a little money if I had put a fuel pressure gauge on it to start with. I live in Badin Shores now, If I can be any help just give me a call. Jerry 336-339-3428

We didn't do anything different to the choke on purpose. Got it back together and thought it was correct. We were wrong obviously. Have the carb at home hoping to reevaluate the choke tomorrow night. I believe our only issue with the choke is spring tension when cold.