New to me 78 Tique

Doing some research bc the spray adhesive we used on the vinyl covered scoops is giving us trouble. Should have done more research the first time. We used 3M M77 on some of them. When in the sun WITH the cover on, the heat affects the bond. Frustrating to say the least. If there is one part of this project that drove me to drink, it was these *&^*$*%# scoops.   

Just got off the phone with 3M. M77 is heat resistant up to 110 deg F. 08090 (marketed as Auto Trim high strength and heat resistance) is up to 190-200. It is $25 per can and marketed to prof and industrial. They said the Rubber and Vinyl 80 is the same stuff (200 deg F), it is just marketed to homeowners…$13.67 at the Home Depot (also sold elsewhere but there you go Pete!).

Will let you all know how it goes (not looking forward to doing those scoops again so it will be some time). Hope this research helps someone.

Higher temp better but not perfect. I have no clue how they did it from the factory. We still have some peeling. The best outcome I have is from contact cement. I am contemplating painting them yellow but not there yet as there has to be a glue that works. Heat under the cover is an issue combined with fumes coming out via the blower and regular air flow.

I used contact cement from Lowes. Secret is having plenty of extra material to fold over. The more the better.   One coat on material and one coat on scoop, wait 15 minutes and put the two together.

Which cement Duane? I used weldwood on one of the vents and have some issues there too. And don’t worry, I read all instructions and let set as per mfg directions whether before initial contact or final bond. I have quite a bit of material under there. Frustrating that the originals had next to no extra material and they were stuck on there very well. Wish I had the glue cc used!

Winter is coming...project time. We plan to replace the wiring in the ski tique. Looking at harnesses. Why would the harnesses on e basic power say “only for voltmeter applications”?

Looking at their 16 and 32 ft square harnesses. Hoping 16 will be enough. Have to measure.

Also going to add bus bars with fuses under the dash. Anyone have recommendations. Connector recs too if marine specific. Otherwise we will just use regular crimp on connectors.

We are tired of chasing elec gremlins in this boat. Looking forward to buying some parts and getting rolling.

Thanks for any and all recommendations!

samudj01 wrote: Winter is coming...project time. We plan to replace the wiring in the ski tique. Looking at harnesses. Why would the harnesses on e basic power say “only for voltmeter applications”?

David,
With an ammeter, all the amps go though it so, the wire gauge needs to be larger to handle to current. I happen to like ammeters better because I feel they give you a better idea of what's happening with charging/discharging. When I went with new gauges in my Tique, I kept the ammeter. The wiring is slightly different and as mentioned the "to" and "from" wires are heavier.

Mille1sj wrote: The wiring is different depending on what meter you have a volt meter or an ammeter.   KENO and Pete have some really nice electrical diagrams they can help you with. My boat has the ammeter so I had to make a few changes to my wiring to make it work. If you google search correctcraftfan ski tique wiring, you should find a few threads with the diagram.

None of those diagrams were made by Ken or Pete

TRB gets the credit for the newer and easier to read one for a later boat with a voltmeter.

I don't know what Pete's getting at with the bigger wire statement. An older CC with an ammeter has 10 gauge wiring from the alternator to the wiring harness 8 connector plug and then up to the ammeter, then the key and then the red wire from the Bat terminal on the key back to the solenoid is also 10 gauge. ( around 15 ft or so to "take the long way to the solenoid") where it connects to the battery cable to charge the battery when the engine is running

It's a lot of wire for those little electrons to flow thru to charge the battery compared to a voltmeter setup that has 10 gauge wire from the alternator to the solenoid (maybe 30 inches) where it connects to the battery cable.

Less voltage drop with the charging path being around 12 ft or so shorter

Pete always like to quote those voltage drop charts. This is a good example where there is 12 ft of extra wire of the same gauge. Do you think there will be extra voltage drop to go with that?

The Ebasic power harness doesn't have the wire in the harness to run up to the ammeter and you'd have to add that wire. That's why they say it's for a voltmeter setup only. It only has a heavy red wire (power to the key) and black wire (ground to dash). Both are 10 gauge and the rest of the wires are smaller

Either setup works so it's a matter of personal preference.

Your choice of alternator may come into play too, depending on the output of the alternator.

Replaced the wires in the Tique this past weekend. New harness from ebasic power. Got the 16 footer. Needed every inch. Also, didn't use the eighth wire as it was for the alternator and was 16ga. We wanted to use 10ga so it was left as a dummy wire for now. Used fused bus bars, one for constant power and one for ignition power. Got rid of all daisy chains except for the chain for the back lights of the guages that we made up with new materials.







Need fuses for everything. Had two laying around to test it all.



Also replaced battery cables and starter cable. Below pic shows the crimper we used and how badly corroded the batt cables were...wow.

TRBenj wrote: You may want to utilize the (Orange?) alt wire as a 2nd batt 12v feed for your voltmeter set up- PCM/CC did, if I’m not mistaken. Just connect to the same place as the other (red?) on both ends. It may help avoid some voltage drop. Same would go for a 2nd ground (but you’d have to run an extra wire).

He mentions it being an extra 16 gauge wire in the kinda universal harness. it only has two 10 gauge wires in it, a Red one and a Black one. according to the diagram from EBasic

The PCM harness has the extra 10 gauge Orange wire left over from the ammeter days and gets used the way you described Tim, but like you said why not run an extra black and red 10 gauge wire for that extra capacity.

Cold weather is coming so we are planning some projects. Three on the list for the tique:

Redoing a number 2 trailer to replace ours that was wrecked and fixed before we got it. This one came off of a 77 tique that was used for the egg stand and parts. It is at the sand blaster now and they are going to prime and paint. Looking for thoughts on the bunks. Looks like more than a 2x4 ripped at an angle. Anyone have measurements? Is it a 2x6 ripped?

Rewired last winter. Tach does not work properly. Gives signal but not correct. Like it is half of what it should be. We are going to trace wires. Thoughts? Is there a common cause? Is this a symptom of a failing tach?

Boat collects exhaust stains on transom bad. Rich we think. Is this a carb adj or timing. We have gotten both pieces of advice. Carb was tuned and boat runs great. Hits 47mph. Checked timing and it is where we set it to run the best. That said we could move it a touch.

Winter stinks but projects are fun. Pics coming when we do something to show.

Not cold yet. Actually was 80 here yesterday and I couldn’t get to the lake. Boats will probably be winterized at my place in November.

Sooty transom is not proper and likely an indication of an improper idle mixture. Unrelated to how it runs on the mains (where top speed and “rich is safe” are valid). Curious what “timing is set where it runs best” means, as we typically talk degrees and RPM to set it properly.

Check that the tach is set to 8cyl mode if it has settings, other than that replace it or send it out for repair.

Tim and Duane,

Duane,

DVskier wrote: Also the 312 interceptor ran on non ethanol fuel as ethanol fuels were not even thought about at that time. Leaded fuel only in use.