Cutlass bearing play?

Josh,
If you can wiggle the shaft, somethings not correct. What does the shaft measure out to? Is the shaft worn at the cutlass? Measure there as well as in the middle to get an idea.
EDIT: Is the play between the shaft and cutlass or the cutlass and strut?

Josh,
The press fit of the cutlass into the strut isn't enough to make a difference in the ID of the bearing. Get the measurements.

Josh,
That .016 difference in shaft diameter isn't normal. There's always a tolerance on shafting typically + or - .001 but it's consistent through the length of the shaft. Do you know if the shaft has been changed out at one time? I wonder if it's a home made shaft?? The concern now however, is where the shaft runs in the cutlass. I would call Deep Blue and see what the cutlass tolerance is. I have never run into one that's over the 1" typically, they are .001 to .002 under the 1".

And after a follow up email to clarify, I got this:

Joshua,

If the diameter on the pads were smaller than 1", then the bearing would instantly wear upon use or worst case, wear the shaft. The bearing is not meant to be tight on the shaft.

joshjanae wrote: What is the worst case scenario if I run it and it is a little too loose?

Some vibration. See how the boat runs and report back. BTW, I feel Deep Blue isn't entirely correct. Yes, the water is the lubricant but the .998 to me is on the large end. Who's the manufacturer of the cutlass? Morse?

I too put a new cutlass bearing in with new General Prop shaft & it had some play.

I only get some vibration in reverse.

A small amount of cutlass play does not affect shaft alignment at the tranny.

Having dealt with bushings and sleeves on a daily basis in my trade, I think some of you are a little misinformed about interference fits. Especially on thin walled sleeves which is what we are dealing with here, When you have say a .005 interference or press fit on the O.D. of the sleeve then when installed the I.D. also compresses a like amount.
That said, a sloppy bushing I.D. before installation in the strut will not be as sloppy when pressed into the strut. That was exactly the case with the bearing that I ordered from the same supplier. Press it in and then check what you have. Be very careful to keep it straight when you start installing. Helps some to freeze the bushing and heat the strut some. I would not go over 250 degrees. Work fast. Quench with wet towel

So, to simplify this................Josh has the proper cutlass bearing for a 1 inch shaft

Now as far as his shaft goes, once the bearing is in the strut, you'll know how the shaft really fits

Great looking boat.

You stole it for $1500!

That is how I did it. It was a bear to get the engine alignment right but with enough persuasion on those mounts I was able to get the engine to slide over.

My son at the helm.

Tach vs speed looks correct with that hull and prop/.. but youre missing 400-500rpm (4-5mph) worth of performance (assuming you're not a mile above sea level). How's the engine tune?

82-90 cable is cc-specific. Use the 10% discount code, that's the best you'll do.

$2k is unreal for that boat. Great buy!

New Member here. I just bought a '90 Sport nautique and have been reading up on this steering cable stuff. I've read that '82-'90 was a CC proprietary cable of 17.5 ft. My question is as long as the travel is the same at the "tiller", why couldnt you adapt into a 18' cable? i.e. Teleflex Thanks for the input.

Kegs319 wrote: New Member here. I just bought a '90 Sport nautique and have been reading up on this steering cable stuff. I've read that '82-'90 was a CC proprietary cable of 17.5 ft. My question is as long as the travel is the same at the "tiller", why couldnt you adapt into a 18' cable? i.e. Teleflex Thanks for the input.

TRBenj wrote: You mean use a shorter throw cable and a shorter tiller arm in order to keep rudder travel the same? Sounds like a recipe for increased steering effort.

Increased steering effort plus increased strain on the components! Sounds like a problem to me. CC didn't go out and have special throw cables made just so they could charge extra $$ for them!
Brian,
How's your liability insurance??