Prop shaft seal

I know this has been posted before, but I can't find it.
1986 2001
Prop shaft seal leaking, 1 drip per second. I remember seeing someone post about this great new seal to use instead of the rope seal packing.
Can someone point me in that direction?
Thank you

Thats the normal rope seal. I remember reading somewhere on here that there was a double lipped seal that I could use instead.

The gortex has worked well for me. Nearly dripless.

Pete when we do a XPC seal in the vintage boat described by original poster we actually remove the engine and pull the shaft. We can pull the engine install the seal and have the engine back in the boat, aligned and running in less then 2 hours... Why molest the flange / coupler???
I have even gotten lucky and found the shaft had been replaced with a double taper unit a few times , makes life real simple!

Alan,
Jody does make a valid point regarding the install of a XPC seal. You can ether mess with pulling the prop shaft flange at the trans or just pull the whole engine. I've mentioned the two methods before. Pulling the engine also eliminates pulling the rudder to get the shaft out. Which method do you think you will use if yo decide on the XPC?

yes I do have the tools and extended knowledge. pulling the engine is far easier then disturbing the shaft coupler and all entailed to drop the rudder and go that route. Lets see 12 fasteners, a half a dozen hose clamps three electrical cables and a 8 pin connector along with two control cables and out it comes . I will also at that time degrease and pressure wash the bilge, inspect and ascertain fuel line condition and other components. I would charge about $300 including the XPC unit.
I help DYI customers all the time. realizing that not every one has the equipment or the in-depth knowledge I will work with them point them in a comfortable direction. I have many times had a customer back under my equipment and have me pull their engine and set in the back of their truck on Fri and had them return on Monday afternoon to re set the unit.
Each customer has a level of want and need. Addressing these customers honestly and economically are what makes a good reliable boat shop successful.
Yes for most living with that drip and a repack is far more economic then a upgrade replacement. Crap! that reminds me I need to order another box of 1/4" Flax packing, that make's the second in a year's time..

I tend to think about it in hours, 5 hour a year boat gets ropes, 150 hour a year boat gets whatever it wants...

Agreed on it being worth 300 for a bilge clean and an alignment... not to mention piece of mind on having someone that knows what they are doing placing their hands and eyes on some safety critical equipment...