1972 SN Promo Project

What in particular would drive you to wet sand the entire boat?

There is no shine to it anywhere. The whole thing is chaulky.

Which compound do you recommend? I know others have talked about the 3 step 3M process, but I have never been able to ascertain which specific 3M products make up the 3M 3 step...

I hear there is a one step process you could use.

Hit that girl with some Mop N Glow and go.

Sorry, I could not help myself.

You will need to compare the graphics carefully with some of the other promos, but it looked to me like somebody had embellished the original graphics with some highlighting. I just don't remember that on Stang's promo boat. I thought his lettering was simple block letters.    It's also clear that someone had "touched" up some of the black on the letters. Long and short, if you are trying to restore this boat, I'm not convinced you won't be repainting the letters. Maybe not.

As to the paint on the bottom, are we sure it is actually bottom paint? I don't know. I'm not a bottom paint expert. But, it is very unusual for anyone to bottom paint a small boat here in the CA Delta. On the larger boats, the bottom paint I have seen used here, does not look like the paint on your boat. Seems like it would cost next to nothing to hit that paint on the bottom with a little paint remover, and see what happens.   I have a theory that someone just painted the bottom black to cover up scrapes, scratches, or even a patch, on the bottom of the boat. I think they probably "freshened up the graphics" and changed the rub rail at the same time. Maybe it is bottom paint. Maybe it is epoxy. I don't know. Just seems cheap and very little time to experiment a bit.

BKH

Speaking on only my experience with the darker colored hulls, the immediate results are similar, however found the results from buffing persist longer and more uniform with a modest wet sanding prior.

Donald80SN wrote: I hear there is a one step process you could use. Hit that girl with some Mop N Glow and go. Sorry, I could not help myself.

Oh yea, I TOTALY forgot about the mop and glow. Well I'll just do that.

Chris if you are going the mop-n-glo, I am going to break out my belt sander and hit that bottom paint with some 80 grit. I'll get to the orange in a hurry!   

skutsch wrote: Chris if you are going the mop-n-glo, I am going to break out my belt sander and hit that bottom paint with some 80 grit. I'll get to the orange in a hurry!

Steve you need to save that 80 grit for a different project.

TRBenj wrote: The goal is always to do as few rounds of sanding and buffing as possible... Some people need to go through the process once themselves to understand why.

Hollywood, do you still have that buffer available?

Since you're looking at compressors, yes, bigger tanks are nice, but it is not always needed.   I have a 30 gal, and while It runs a lot when I am sanding, or spraying, I hardly ever have to stop and let it catch up...   I find that I need a break, or want to inspect something closer, mix more paint etc, before the compressor runs down too significantly.   After 15 years on the same compressor, only now is it starting to show the abuse.    I have sanded and painted several cars with this one compressor, so I don't think I could have asked for much more reliability from it.    The oil free compressors are loud, but are significantly less up front cost, if you're looking to save some coin.   the noise can be mitigated a good deal if you go that route.   Good luck finding one!

63 Skier wrote: Definitely minimum of 30 gallon tank, and there are tons of decent compressors that can be found on CL. I've never bought a new one. I'd look for a used pro model, with crankcase and belt drive. The quieter running is a huge advantage that you'll appreciate year after year. Look at cfm ratings, ignore the HP ratings as they are largely hype. .

Agreed plus, If you have 220 v at your garage that would be a big factor. You can score some great old 2 stage compressors for $5-600 on Craigslist that will run anything you throw at it. The 2 stages run slower so they're quieter and don't create as much heat.

I just put in a new Champion 5hp 2 stage 220 3 phase at my print shop that is replacing a 7.5 hp Campbell Hausfeld unit but will provide all the air I could ever use.. It runs so quiet it's amazing.   I looked at used on CL but for the business I went new. My home garage is getting wired 220 this winter so I'll probably pick up something decent used then.

At work today wearing the orange apron, I just happen to be looking at compressors and even forked a bunch off the DC truck. Black Friday deals are on now at the HD. You can get a decent made in China 30 gal. unit pretty cheap!!!

On the rwp, I would look for a replacement or send it off to be rebuilt. Those pumps seem to be readily available, not unlike my proprietary OMC pump.

On the RWP, can you cut the impeller along the axis of the spline then split it open? It you can get at least part of it split (tough to cut at the back of the housing) it may relieve enough pressure to pull it off.