1972 SN Promo Project

One word:

Wet Lyfe

Might want to check the videos. Might be just me though.

That carter afb is original and appropriate. I'd soak it a bit to see if it comes back. Otherwise note the model number and start searching for another. Modern edelbrocks still use the AFB castings, a 600cfm would likely drop right in place if the budget allows. Alt looks like a newer replacement.

Pushrods, not lifters (those ride right on the cam. A little corrosion on these doesn't mean much. You'll need to spin the engine over twice to see all of the valves move once (it's a 4-stroke engine after all). The lifters are hydraulic and may have bled down from sitting. Priming the oil system would allow you to better assess. I still don't see any imminent signs of needing an engine rebuild.

I've seen several engines from that era with the corrugated radiator hose on the front. Not sure if original but wouldn't surprise me. It probably handled tight bends better than the hardwall stuff from 40+ years ago.

Trans likely has oil in it (as opposed to dirty ATF). Normal, and you can convert over to ATF when you're ready.

Tap that bolt holding the pylon in the cup glassed to the hull (the hole in the pylon pin is not threaded). Doesn't look like the flange at the floor will hold you up, lol. Then the only thing holding the pylon in the boat is corrosion between the pin and cup. Soak with penetrating oil then use a large breaker through the ring/finger to twist free if necessary.

I see several pieces of '73 hardware, ring/finger style and rear rope clearance bar are 2 obvious ones.

TRBenj wrote: I still don't see any imminent signs of needing an engine rebuild.

I had the same reaction. I think there's sometimes a tendency to assume an engine is bad, needs rebuild, just because it hasn't run in a long time. Short of being left out in the rain for years or frozen solid an engine is a closed machine bathed in oil. Yes, the oil runs off with time, and a bit of rust comes along with condensation from hot/cold weather cycles, but I've seen some pretty rusty looking heaps get cleaned up and run smooth and well with no internal work done. The key is these steps you are taking to find out what is good and what isn't, prime it to get the internals well oiled before putting stress on them. Then a compression test will tell more of the story, but won't surprise me if you run this engine as is.

I know many here rebuild their own carbs, I've chosen not to, have had great luck using a carb rebuilder. It's expensive, but much less than buying a new carb. Just a thought.

63 Skier wrote: TRBenj wrote: I still don't see any imminent signs of needing an engine rebuild. I had the same reaction. I think there's sometimes a tendency to assume an engine is bad, needs rebuild, just because it hasn't run in a long time. Short of being left out in the rain for years or frozen solid an engine is a closed machine bathed in oil. Yes, the oil runs off with time, and a bit of rust comes along with condensation from hot/cold weather cycles, but I've seen some pretty rusty looking heaps get cleaned up and run smooth and well with no internal work done. The key is these steps you are taking to find out what is good and what isn't, prime it to get the internals well oiled before putting stress on them. Then a compression test will tell more of the story, but won't surprise me if you run this engine as is. I know many here rebuild their own carbs, I've chosen not to, have had great luck using a carb rebuilder. It's expensive, but much less than buying a new carb. Just a thought.

I don't know what's wrong with you guys, tryin to save me money?   Ha ha. OK I'll try to get the oil primed this week

Today I got some time with the boat and attempted the oil priming technique that Zach mentioned on page 3 of this post.

"To remove the Dizzy drive gear use a big screwdriver. I think you need to rotate it Counter Clockwise if memory serves me and it will come up out of the cam gear. It is sort of a PITA to get out without the intake off so pick up a 90 degree pick tool that is long enough to get under the gear to help you lift it out."




Vid 9

Now for the $10,000 question, why is the oil not making it up to the rocker arms?
1. Oil clog?
2. Oil pump broken?
3. Oil quantity too low? (I don't think this is the case since the dipstick is at a good level and oil came out of the sender like a geiser).
4. The drill is not reaching a speed high enough to get oil to the rockers. (see vid 11)



Vid 10

This is the primer shaft spinning the oil pump for speed reference.



Vid 11

How long did you spin it for? It may take several minutes for oil to reach the top of the engine.

Often you'll see pressure build on the gauge well before oil reaches the top of the engine... The sender is down low close to the pump, after all.

Old, thick, cold oil will also move much more slowly than a fresh 30w... Might be worth changing the oil if you really want to see it up at the valve train. I can't imagine it has oiling system issues of things look generally positive under the valve covers though.

We're also assuming that you're spinning the pump in the proper direction...

Remind us why you're priming the oil system.

Frankenotter wrote: I guess I can give it an oil change but do I have to use expensive oil? I'd rather not dump $45 of racing oil into an engine that's going to get dumped anyways.

Are you going to run the engine on this oil? If not then why not dump the cheapest lightest weight oil you can in (as it will flow better at the extremely cold temperatures you are currently working in). I don't think you are going to have issues protecting your flat tappets if all you plan to do is spin it by hand...

This all started as a suggestion by some of the members, not to mention any names (Tim) to see the general health of the engine before taking it out of the boat. The goal has been to get the engine oil primed and at least Spin it with the starter to check compression before pulling. I think that will be the next item in the agenda after a light weight oil change. Where is the drain hose on a 340?

Frankenotter wrote: TRBenj wrote: Remind us why you're priming the oil system. I'm hoping that's a joke.

No, seriously.

I am failing to grasp what the concern is about the lack of oil up at the rockers would be. Reminding us what the goal of priming the system is may help us focus on the real concern?

Not advocating for an engine rebuild... I am thinking the opposite. With all of the hull, structure, interior and trailer work in front of him, it would be nice to save some time and money on the engine (at least in the short term). Save the engine rebuild for a 1-winter project sometime after the boat splashes. Then it can be a a primary focus rather than another item on a very long list, competing with other (time, money) resources.

Could you also take off the valve covers and drizzle oil on the rockers like salad dressing? For some reason this would be my first move.

I'd definitely change the oil. You are trying to oil all engine components before going to further steps to see if the condition is good enough to run as is, or with minor work. So, distributing old murky oil throughout isn't a good plan, do the change and distribute clean fresh oil on all surfaces. If you want to use cheaper oil you can, for this purpose, assuming another oil change is in the plan even if the engine checks out ok.

A few of us have a suspicion that engine might run well and strong without a rebuild, seems worth pursuing even if we end up wrong and costs a wasted oil change.

I definitely have enough fresh "variety pack" oil you can have too.