Shower in 96 SKi Nautique not working |
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2tall
Groupie Joined: November-10-2015 Location: MT Status: Offline Points: 47 |
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Posted: September-18-2016 at 4:45pm |
I have a 96' ski Nautique with PCM GT-40, The previous owner had a shower installed, but it does not work, more specfically water does not come out the shower nozzle. There is no noise of a pump running or water running to the nozzle.. I tried all the ACCY buttons, flipped the switch on off several times and nothing.
-The battery is good (brand new and runs the rest of the boat fine) -I followed the water lines from the engine to the shower and checked all the connections -I followed the yellow/black wires from the shower installation location all the way to the battery and they all seem to be connected. (The wires do go to what looks like a starter? on the port side of the motor toward the stern and then continue?) - The impeller is fine and sending water all through the engine. Ignore the white duct tape, I am replacing with zip ties..... Ideas on what else to check? |
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2Tall - 1996 Ski Nautique GT-40
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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JD, You followed the wiring and say they "seem to be connected" but did you check for power? Get the VOM out!!! |
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gun-driver
Grand Poobah Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4112 |
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The starter looking thing is the pump for the shower.
Like Pete said check for power at the pump until then we cant help you. |
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2tall
Groupie Joined: November-10-2015 Location: MT Status: Offline Points: 47 |
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I used the multimeter and it looks like the switch is bad. I am replacing it today and I'll try again. Thanks for your help. I was hoping it was not electrical. A switch is easy to fix !
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gun-driver
Grand Poobah Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4112 |
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Understand that the pump is an on demand pump. In layman's terms the switch is always on and there is a pressure switch inside when you open the shower end the pump turns on when you close the shower end the pump turns off.
Also the motor needs to be running to supply water pressure to the pump. |
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2tall
Groupie Joined: November-10-2015 Location: MT Status: Offline Points: 47 |
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So, I installed a new switch. Went out to the lake and the boat would not start. it turned over, but never started. I removed the two wires (yellow and black) from the new switch and it started right up and ran fine. Is this because the switch was a true on/off switch and not some type of "On Demand" switch? It sounds like I need to buy a switch made just for this heater system (heater craft)?
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quinner
Grand Poobah Joined: October-12-2005 Location: Unknown Status: Offline Points: 5828 |
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Something is not adding up, is it a separate switch or wired to one of the dash ACCY switches? On/Off is all the pump needs.
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Post a picture of the switch you replaced.
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Dreaming
Platinum Member Joined: May-21-2010 Location: Tacoma, WA Status: Offline Points: 1870 |
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2tall, From your description, it might be good to get a little help from someone who is electrically savvy. Do you have a multi-meter or a test light? You can test the pump (dry is ok for these) by running a wire from the battery negative to the ground wire at the pump, and a 12v wire to the hot side of the pump. If the pump is in operating condition, the motor will spin when you connect the two jumper wires.
The on demand switch as described by Gun driver is in the pump itself. The way it works is when the water in the pump gets to a certain pressure, the switch turns the motor off. you still need to use the breaker switch at the dash to turn the system on or off. -when the accy circuit breaker is in the on position (dash) - you should have ~12v DC when you put your meter on the two wires that feed the pump ( (1) ground, (1) 12v hot.) - if you can't get 12v at the pump, there is something wrong with the wiring between the battery and the pump - if you try to bypass all this stuff to make the motor run (described above) you can see if you have multiple issues or just a wiring issue. - if everything is working right, you should get the pump motor to turn, until you shut the valve at the end of the hose(shower head). the pump will run until water pressure is built up in the line, and then it will shut off when it reaches its preset pressure. |
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Dreaming
Platinum Member Joined: May-21-2010 Location: Tacoma, WA Status: Offline Points: 1870 |
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here is a basic circuit wiring diagram for you. Think about Electricity like water, and the wires like a hose. If you think about it this way, the ground is where the water comes out of the hose, and the battery is where the water comes from |
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2tall
Groupie Joined: November-10-2015 Location: MT Status: Offline Points: 47 |
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I have a multi-meter. I used it and put one end on each wire (one on yellow/one on black) and the pump ran. So it seemed like it completed the circuit? After I hooked up the toggle switch, when I click the switch on, the pump runs, but the boat won't turn over.
I may just scrap the whole thing and start over with something different. Since the plastic is so old on the dial connections (and under the engine cover getting heated up, then cooled down a lot) one of the connections broke while I was installing the toggle switch. I don't want to fork out $375 for a new shower. I might just call it quits on this shower and maybe look for another alternative. So I am now thinking about what else I could do for a shower that would be inexpensive? I already have the peacock for the hot water on the engine...I am thinking about maybe just changing that to a shut off/on valve and just running hot water only through the existing hot tube back to the shower head. Any thoughts are appreciated, and thanks everyone for your great input. |
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2tall
Groupie Joined: November-10-2015 Location: MT Status: Offline Points: 47 |
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I also just found someone who brought the hot and cold together with a T connector and then the water coming out the end of the T was "warm" instead of scalding hot. The only issue with this type of setup is that I would have to lift the engine clam shell everytime to turn the valve...just thinking out loud. I guess I could put the valve further down the line?
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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JD,
As Kris mentioned, I too feel it would be a good idea to find a friend who can help out with the electrics. Something is amiss with the wiring. You need to think about the boat not starting with your wiring job. There could be a serious problem. Don't run away from the problem and try to "back yard" it!!! |
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Dreaming
Platinum Member Joined: May-21-2010 Location: Tacoma, WA Status: Offline Points: 1870 |
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there isn't enough pressure in the engine pumping system to make the shower spray water without the inline pump. There are various ways of getting the water mixed so the temperature is correct (that's the only thing the white box does) so you still would need to work out the electrical/pumping issue. I did a shower post a while back, regarding replacements for my pump. I thought Gun-Driver's shower valving was pretty cool, it is shown in that thread.
There is definitely something amiss with your wiring from what you have described, the Multi-meter shouldn't provide a current path when measuring voltage. You are probably capable of figuring out how this works, its a simple system once you understand it, but having someone show you how to use the tools you have could be invaluable for a future project. I think we may be able to walk you through it if you can take some pictures of what you are seeing and doing. Do it step by step, someone else may need this thread in the future. |
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