Question on used SPN

TRBenj wrote: Pictures

We all agree that construction would be a bad idea... it would also be different than any previously seen, You should definitely post pictures of the bilge area and what you have found...

yes step back and take pictures that show the boat with the motor box out maybe the back panel out ... don't take apart what you have done it sounds like a reasonable repair for the time being

pedricd wrote: I have these screw on balls with a tether to hold the motor box hinge. Are you supposed to be able to unscrew them without removing the screw they are tethered to?

There are no nuts they just stab through the floor.

Where did you see that lift is 3,000#? It looks like my old ShoreMaster 2500#, which held a Barefoot ok but not well. We eventually replaced it with a 4,000#

I wouldn't spend $900 for just the lift but it would work and I kind of like top...

The top does look custom made.

If it really is a 120" inside/132" outside "pontoon" lift it is at least 3k.

Stainless cables are nice, and not cheap.

Winterization is fully covered in the manual. Don't bother with the drain plug on the tranny cooler or the tranny, pull the hose off the cooler bottom and suck out the tranny fluid. Everything else could be done to their spec. If you get all the water out nothing will break over winter, everything else is maintenance. It's not complicated.

There should be plenty of info on the 89-91 stock 240 hp 1.23 transmission prop choices.

Keep the OJ as is and in the garage as a spare, you'll likely never want to use it again after getting the appropriate Acme.

I do have some alignment work to do, I had them just pull it apart (since I haven't had time) and it's pretty far off, I posted a picture prior of the drive shaft entering the hull, looking like it was centered in the log but like the hull hole was off... the hull hole is not centered, however, the strut *is* misaligned. It doesn't look bent to me but like it is shimmed crooked (you can see it at the plate where it attaches to the hull)? I'll get a picture of that later... I will check for straightness with a straight edge then shim it if it's ok, cutlass appears to be ok but I'll need to verify (prop is off)...I don't understand how I could turn it with a finger or two if that off? Or maybe I misunderstood...it didn't spin "freely" but with constant resistance.

Ok, here are some photos from yesterday to try and show the bilge etc (it all looks stock to me, and my "white" bilge comment must have been from using the flashlight on my phone and looking at the front of the bilge, otherwise I'm just on crack):








Is that fretting (eek) on the drive shaft from misalignment? Hope my tranny bearings are ok :(, there was no obvious vibration/noises and it shifts smoothly (EDIT: Included zoomed in picture):







Current prop is a 14x16 OJ 3 blade.

BTW, marina PO'd me pretty bad, they smashed up the front of my motor box, they are going to fix it (I'll be doing my own "maintenance" from now on...). Obviously slammed the box down without it aligned with the floor wedges:



So... I guess I like to learn the hard way. But I sure as hell know a LOT more about these boats now because of this site and going through the pain myself.

Strut looks bent to me.

Paul,
I agree with the others that the strut sure looks bent. Also, to me the shaft to coupling does look fretted. With a good interference press fit, there shouldn't be signs of rust at the bore. The only way to really tell is pulling the two apart and measuring.

Duane in Indy wrote: I will be posting pics of machining a single taper shaft into a double taper shaft in a few days. The tapered coupling is about $65.00. To machine a taper onto the end of the shaft is not a huge undertaking and most local shops have a lathe capable. Save $$ by converting your current shaft if it is straight

Duane,
Fantastic idea! Don't forget the woodruff key and then lapping the two together.