Stuffing Box ID and Adjustment

My stuffing box is leaking a bit. I'm getting a drip every couple seconds when stopped.

I've read how to tighten and repack them. Seems straight forward.

My issue is that the stuffing box in our boat does not look like anything I've found pictures of. I'm not seeing the adjustment nuts anywhere.

Hoping someone here is familiar with what this is and how to adjust it.

Jake,
Your link came up bad so here's a good one. It doesn't look like it's been greased in awhile? Pump some marine grease in it and see how long it lasts. It may not last that long since I feel the seal is bad from an alignment problem. Looking at the kink in the hose between the log and the "stuffing box", it's not good!! I'd say there's even a good chance that the shaft is rubbing on the log ID. When was the last time you checked the alignment? How's the strut for straightness?

Personally I would atleast loosen the clamp on the hose that connects the hose to the log. Then slide the stuffing box and hose up the shaft and look if the shaft is rubbing bad on the log. You dont want to have to replace the log when the shaft wears through it is not fun.

I love this place! Never considered the PVC elbow. Will get brass on order and double check for anything else. So much to learn as a new boater. Thanks for pointing that out.

I'll slip off the hose off the log and slide the assembly up tonight and report back.

Even if you get the two broken screws out I doubt you will be able to pull the collar off the shaft. Takes a lot of effort and a pulling device to free it. They are shrunk on with heat and a lot of interference fit.
No the shaft won't go forward without pulling the engine/trans assy.

Interesting. How is the seal serviceable with the collar in place?

Poorhouse wrote: Interesting. How is the seal serviceable with the collar in place?

Sorry, but I sure wouldn't bother to mess with it due to it's poor design.

I don't think that I have ever had an EZ out work. You drill a hole start the ez out and as it goes into the hole you drilled it puts pressure and expands the part you drilled out. This is going to be a big job if you try to reuse parts IMHO.

Jake,
I'm not confused! Check the shaft and then determine how to proceed.

8122pbrainard wrote: Jake, I'm not confused! Check the shaft and then determine how to proceed.

LOL - Not you, I am clear on your advice. Any confusion is on my end, or in my misuse of terminology. Like the comment below.

Jonny Quest wrote: You will also note that the set screws on the shaft coupler appear to be missing. I'm guessing that the shaft is not original. JQ

The shaft coupler is the bronze piece at the end of the shaft where it meets the transmission output? There is a allen headed screw down in that hole.

That is the piece I was referring to in my previous post. The shaft coupler, if I'm understanding correctly, is the piece that is press fit to the shaft.
The small stainless collar seen in the 2nd photo is labeled "Lasdrop".
From what I can find online it is a safety collar and would not have been press fit.
That is the piece with the snapped off bolt heads.
If I could remove that collar I could slide the whole mess up and take a look at the alignment of the shaft going through the log.

Note: I did find some info that Supra fitted this type of stuffing box from the factory in the mid 80's. Not to say my shaft hasn't been replaced.

Theoretical question - If a person were set on using this type of stuffing box how would they plan to service the seal? Does a double taper shaft slide out of the coupler? That is the only way I can imagine this making sense to use.

JPASS wrote: So are you trying to move the silver safety collar out of the way so you can remove the shaft boot to check and see how the driveshaft is running through the log? If that's the case, why not just cut the collar off?

Yes, exactly. That was my plan last night after the shaft alignment question was raised.

I'm concerned about damaging the shaft and wanted to determine if the collar is servicing a purpose as is.

It also may have been the cheapest option at that time.

Pretty easy to remove shaft and stuffing box. They are relatively cheap. Think I paid 60 bucks for a new one and it came with packing.

I dont see how you could possibly damage the transmission. Getting the 4 bolts out and the coupler unbolted from the tranny is easy.

I dont know what kind of shaft and coupler you have. Im sure some of the other guys who have these boats could tell you exactly what to do. Mine is tapered so it came off pretty easy. Really the worst you will be out is 400 bucks. Its alot of money but compared to other boat costs its not that bad.

Hmm not sure ive done it twice now. I think it looks like the same as the side that the prop is on. It came off not too bad once I put a socket on the shaft and used 4 long bolts to pop it off. Was not too hard. Idk what a double taper is?

Double taper means both the prop side and transmission side of the shaft are tapered.

Single taper would be tapered on the prop side. The transmission side would have the coupler pressed on.
This is what I'm guessing I have.

As you said unbolting the 4 retaining bolts is easy, and the shaft nut should be easy if there is clearance. Then you put a socket on the end of the shaft to press it out as you tighten the 4 bolts on the coupler. Tightening it to the transmission.
This can damage either side of the coupler. Also unnecessary work if the shaft is bent and I could then just cut it.

To you point $400 isn't big money to replace the shaft if necessary. That looks like it would buy me an ARE replacement system as well.

I'm just amazed that an essentially unserviceable seal is used on this stuffing box.

I'm also trying to determine what I should do right now to keep the boat in service for the rest of the (short) season.

Finally, I need to find a dial indicator to check the shaft and would like to check the alignment.