1995 GT-40 Fuel Pump/FCC conversion

Mark I think Summit or Carter are on to us the pumps are now 96 bucks
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p61171

Good Looking Install.

Actually they’re up to $750 from what I see.

Thanks for the pics. It does look nice and clean. Where did you buy yours?

I thought the 95-96 GT40’s were having trouble with heat soak and having the pump submerged in fuel helped with that issue. Also it gave a place for the hot fuel from the
return line to cool down.

Are there any models that return the fuel to the tank, or does that go against the pressurized fuel too far from the engine rule?

I personally didn't have the hot-start issue, but I've seen many who have and this was a fix (albeit more expensive than those above that just replaced the stock HPP). The boat was new-to-me this Spring, and it was clear that the HPP wasn't functioning properly. I figured I'd go for the full fix and nip this issue in the bud with the FCC that's been installed on every PCM engine since 1997.

I went with the retro which can be purchased from nautiqueparts.com:
https://www.nautiqueparts.com/product/retro-fcc-kit/

There have been volumes written about replacing the HPP on these forums. In the end, the PCM fuel control cell is the best way to go as it ensures a constant flow of fuel to the injectors and avoids the common issue of vapor lock in the old setup.

Also, while this kit didn't come with much in the way of instructions (none), it did not require any fabrication whatsoever other than replacing one of the riser hoses to accommodate the FCC. The whole job was done in a day and the boat is running like a dream ever since.

~Rick

If you choose to use a Carter replacement for $96 last check you can use a T at the inlet of the HPP. The return line from the fuel injector rail goes to the fuel tank in the rear and also utilizes the second return line that goes accross the rear of your engine and plugs into the inlet for the High pressure pump.
Buy a T and install it so both the return line and the feed line from your fuel tank on the pass side of the engine both feed the new Carter HPP and you are good to go.
The Carter pump should be a Turbine design and they have proven to be very durable pumps.   FYI: Electric pumps last a very long time unless you dry start your engine, anytime an electric pump runs without fuel it is damaged. They can't run 10 seconds dry.
After dry starts they will get a little noisy, then a little louder and then fail. Keep gas in the tank and the pumps run much longer.
This is an easy conversion. I would not hesitate to use this on my 95.
My GT40 has not missed a beat yet fuel related, and so far has never had a problem with vapor lock but I don't use E85 or E90 fuel, I run gasoline which does not have as much issue with vapor lock.
Hope this helps.
Mark

Double Dang, it was $60 when this started a couple years ago. Still an easier and much cheaper fix. If it lasts 20 more years maybe the FCC will have a replacement that is not so expensive.

Gun-Driver, how is the Carter fuel pump working out for you? I just completed the Carter on mine but haven't been on the lake yet to test. should be out this Sunday to give it a shot. I was out last weekend and had the hot start issue, I had to wait until cooled down than I was able to fire it up and head back to the dock.

Thanks for the info!!   

Thanks again I'll update everyone after this weekend! supposed to be in the mid 90's this weekend up here in northern California.

Happy boating!

bthorsen wrote: Does anyone happen to know the thread size of the locknut on the FCC of a PCM GT40 engine? Mine cracked into 2 pieces when trying to loosen the allen head plug to drain/check if any water was inside...

The drain plug itself has 1/8 npt threads.

The PCM part number for the lock nut is R017077. if you look at the price PCM is real proud of their nuts They must be made of gold plated unobtanium or something like that   

I'd look at the link below for one choice of places to get a lock nut for a 1/8 npt plug.

That one is Grainger supply, I'm sure Fastenal, McMaster Carr, or maybe a local plumbing supply store or good hardware store would have them too.



link

bthorsen wrote: Keno- thanks for your help. I was planning to check Menards tomorrow, and then reach out to Grainger, as they have stores in town. I looked at that one in the link, and it says the hex size is 11/16"... I can tell from one 1/2 of mine that it is 3/4" hex, so maybe it is similar, but slightly different... are you certain from prior use/experience that is the right one?

Only thing I'm certain of is that I've never had to replace one so I couldn't say for sure that it will work. I never looked too closely at that drain and nut.

I guess I'm also certain that I'd certainly try to find one locally and see if it works before paying 12 something for the PCM nut

Good luck whatever you decide to do.

I have the high-pressure fuel pump Dave 815-953-1823

bthorsen wrote: KENO wrote: Good luck whatever you decide to do. ok, thanks again for your help! I think I can find one here around Detroit somewhere for a few bucks!

I got a look at a drain fitting today on a friends boat, but he wouldn't let me take it apart. He's not too adventurous

I think what I described is wrong as far as size.

It looks like the lock nut holds a fitting into the bottom of the FCC and then the pipe plug would screw into the fitting.

I'd take the nut pieces with me.

That should be a straight threaded nut

For Alpha Don, just Google pipe threaded lock nuts for some info

And Ben, However it turns out, post your findings here for the next guy.

AlfaDon wrote: I find it curious that NPT threads would take a locknut. Wouldn’t they be straight threads instead of tapered?

KENO wrote: For Alpha Don, just Google pipe threaded lock nuts for some info

pipe lock nuts
Don,
They are threaded to the taper max so, they will run all the way up on a tapered pipe thread.

Over the weekend, I measured the plug (male) threads and determined them to be 24 threads per inch, and either 1/2 or 9/16" diameter. I made some progress on this today... first I went to Fastenal, but they quickly directed me nextdoor to a hose repair/production guy. He confirmed that the threads are 9/16", and 24 th/inch. He found this to be a thread size found on compression fittings. He gave me a compression cap, which I think will work.

I also obtained a drain plug assembly from NAPA, but it is "too short" to work... something longer would. I think this is a better design, and was disappointed that it would not work.