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Strut 1994 ski nautique ski

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rrman01 View Drop Down
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    Posted: May-24-2016 at 8:54pm
I need a new strut anyone know where I can find the exact model that came on the boat from mfg
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Gary S View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2016 at 9:05pm
What happened to yours? If it's bent they can be fixed. Here is a link to who might have one.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rrman01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2016 at 9:07pm
I was trying to tweak it for perfect clearance at log and bent opening the shaft goes through toward stern, local shop here in Houston says it can't be fixed. I've searched all the parts websites, ski dim, nautique parts, Christine's marine and mniboats. It looks like from all them i need the 2035 I just want to be sure. Can they not pull specific parts from hull I'd to be exact? Also mni looks to be the fairest price for that part but the bearing is probly not installed at $316
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skibum1110 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-25-2016 at 11:42pm
I have on for an 84. Not sure if they are the same.
1992 Ski Nautique
1975 Ski Nautique
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-26-2016 at 1:29am
white lake shows 2035 fits 82-96
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rrman01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-26-2016 at 1:44am
I ordered one from mniboats.com for 316, lets hope it mounts perfect with no shims or tweaking
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skibum1110 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-26-2016 at 5:50am
Pm sent
1992 Ski Nautique
1975 Ski Nautique
2000 Ski Nautique
2006 Ski Nautique 206 Limited
2005 Air Nautique 206 Team
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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-26-2016 at 7:14am
Originally posted by rrman01 rrman01 wrote:

I was trying to tweak it for perfect clearance at log and bent opening the shaft goes through toward stern,

Mike,
An alternate to new is shimming using stainless washers between the strut base and hull. Also the holes in the hull can be elongated slightly.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rrman01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-26-2016 at 8:23pm
The strut went on perfect without any issues i did just like you said and widened the wollered out the holes a little in the hull. What's the trick to getting the coupler mounted back on the shaft?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-26-2016 at 9:00pm
Originally posted by rrman01 rrman01 wrote:

What's the trick to getting the coupler mounted back on the shaft?

First make sure there are no burrs on the shaft, the bore of the coupling the key and key ways. Clamp the shaft with some wood to the strut so it doesn't slip aft. Heat the coupling in the oven set as hot as it will go for about an hour. Remove it from the oven and quickly install it on the shaft along with the key. It should slide on but I suggest having a chunk of brass or aluminum and a hammer handy in case some tapping it needed.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-27-2016 at 9:50am
If tapping is needed it's nice to have an extra person to back up the end of the shaft with a block of wood.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-27-2016 at 9:57am
Originally posted by gun-driver gun-driver wrote:

If tapping is needed it's nice to have an extra person to back up the end of the shaft with a block of wood.

Mike,
Paul's suggestion is if there's another person available but you can also ;
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


Clamp the shaft with some wood to the strut so it doesn't slip aft. .


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rrman01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-27-2016 at 10:54am
Thanks for the info I'll be installing it today as soon as the coupler comes in
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rrman01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-27-2016 at 7:02pm
I put the coupler In the oven for an hour and a half and cleaned the shaft with scotch bright it went on about 1/4 inch and stopped. Tried tapping the shaft with a rubber mallet and board on the prop nut to drive it on farther but it's not budging. I'm thinkin I should have cooled the shaft some how. I'm gonna have to try and get it back off now. And suggestions?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-27-2016 at 10:28pm
Mike,
Couplings are typically bored to suit the normal shaft tolerance spec. Shaft diameters can vary + or - a couple thousands. The bore of the coupling for a heat shrink fit is .000" to a -.0005" of the actual shaft diameter. Was the new coupling bored to suit the old shaft?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rrman01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-28-2016 at 12:02am
The coupling was not bored out I just got it from skids today, now that it's 1/4 inch on the shaft I'm considering just pulling the engine pulling the shaft out Forward and taking to the guy that did my shaft and prop and have him press it on? Or just try to heat it up with a fire blanket and torch one more time
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-28-2016 at 5:29am
Mike,
Pulling the engine so the shaft can be R&R'd forward isn't a bad choice. Pressing the coupling half on the shaft is a alternate to heat shrinking but, you still need to measure the shaft OD and check it against the coupling ID for the fit. Did you get any measurements? Once the coupling is pressed on, I suggest chucking up the assembly in the lathe on the shaft and then taking a very light cut off the face of the coupling. This will ensure the face of the coupling runs true to the shaft.
Originally posted by rrman01 rrman01 wrote:

The coupling was not bored out I just got it from skids today,

Who is "skids"? Did they ever mention boring the coupling to the proper fit?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fanofccfan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-28-2016 at 9:22am
Pete I think his auto correct changed ski DIM into skids.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-28-2016 at 11:39am
Mike,
Did you get the coupling from Skidim? If so, did you talk to them or just place the order on line?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rrman01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-28-2016 at 12:53pm
Yes I bought the coupler from ski dim and spoke to a technician on the phone to place order,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-29-2016 at 9:27pm
Originally posted by rrman01 rrman01 wrote:

Yes I bought the coupler from ski dim and spoke to a technician on the phone to place order,

Mike,
I'm curious, did he say anything about heat shrink/press fit tolerances? The press fit is mentioned in Skidim's description of the coupling. Press fits are only as good as the clearance so ID's and OD's need to be considered.


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