Prop key way is sheered

BaccoBouncer wrote: .I was wondering if it is possible to fix the coupling axis alignment with the motor mounts instead of the strut shim. Since all four corners of the motor are adjustable in both axis couldn't you walk the motor x or y before aligning the angle of the couplings? Feels safer than shimming the strut for a newbie.

Adam,
I try to stress making a point that alignment starts at the strut. Many feel an alignment only entails the engine. Once the strut/shaft is aligned to the log, THEN the engine is aligned to it.

Maybe we should also ask how far off is he with his prop shaft as is? If it comes close as is maybe he just needs the engine adjusted. If his is way off like mine was you have no choice but to work on the strut.
I thought I had read that some Nautiques had far less than perfect alignment of the Log to the proper strut position? It has been two years since I had to do this so my memory could be off.
Mine was so far off the prop would not rotate by hand if assembled, It bound up the shaft in the cutlass bearing. It did turn out perfect only due to great advice on this forum. Be patient do it right and you will be very happy with the results.

Ok I got my new cutlass bearing.
Questions:
I am concerned that when I cut out the old one with a hacksaw blade that I may scrape the strut. Does this matter?
ANy tips for pressing the new ones or is it straight forward with a threaded rod/nuts as you said? Don't lube or prep surface etc?
If I adjust strut. Do the screws go into a threaded nut plate that is fiberglassed in or are there nuts somewhere on the backside that I have to get hold of? Do I cut the epoxy out around the strut before adjusting? What was the "hot wire" thing I heard about or can I do it with a blade. Is putting the epoxy back in something I put on the bottom of the strut or do more of a "bathroom caulk" style after it is in?
Thanks for the help. i'm getting close and it's getting warm out so the pressure is on to get thsi done.

I believe I have in a way sufficient to not drop me in the bucket of "Annoying new guy who is too lazy do a basic search"    I know those guys and I agree they are not being necessarily considerate.
Here is the specific context for my questions. In Pete's 101 video he instruct to remove the cutlas bearing by cutting it with a hack saw blade and the folding it in on itself. If I was in there I would have asked about how much caution I should take to not gouge the strut. It may not matter at all or maybe I should take great care to not cut through the bearing and try to pry it to split or something. This might add an hour to the job if I do and even going and buying a shim for the other side of the blade getting a new sharp blade etc. Just looking to minimize my newbie lessons learned mistakes.
He described the strut adjustment and I also went through some other threads on adjusting etc. I learned that the 4200 epoxy is softer than the 5200. No one described exactly how to put it on. Do I put some where the screws go into the hull and under the strut or is that a huge mistake because I just made the strut unstable? I saw someone say "hot wire cut" is done with the 5200 and not the 4200. I can't find out what that is.
and won't even do a search"
I'll do more searching but I found everyone to be so helpful here and am eager to get the project done that I continued with the inquiry.
I'll also on a personal note that It has been a great help to find a community to help me with this. It has taken it from a very frustrating new boat owner experience to a fun project with a big victory just around the corner. So thank you everyone for that.

And yes there are nuts on the back side of the bolts holding on the strut.. you should be able to reach them up under the gas tank .. definitely more fun of a job with a friend in the boat

If you do accidentally cut into the strut make sure to go in with a half round file or the like to remove any burrs before trying to press in the new one.

Ok great input. I'll have at it!

DrCC wrote: And,    put your new cutlass in the freezer.

Nice touch. Thanks!

And,   don't let the white stuff drip on your hair, wear a hat.
and have some rags for wiping-up with paint thinner (mineral spirits) not lacquer thinner.

Freezing a cutlass will shrink it just slightly enough to make the installation much much easier.
I've spent years installing strut bearings via hydraulic press.   The last two were via freezer trick.   I will never install another one without freezing first.

And the boating buddy of the year award goes to........ DayTony! I tried pressing in the cutlass bearing with a 3/8 threaded rod, did not work. Called Tony for some advice and he told me to come on over ( next town over) and he would have something I could take back home to press them in. He made this little beauty, a "Driveway Arbor Press". Thanks Tony.

Nice install set up.
How is your alignment looking now? Hope it is near dead on.

When I pulled my strut off of my hull I noted the sealer 5200 or 4200 was under the strut gluing it to the hull.   When I installed mine I did it the same way. I put a layer of 5200 on the hull and torqued the strut in place then wiped off all the excess.   Hope I never have to take it off again. Could be very tough.

I can't believe I've already picked up two stars with just this thread. Talk about baptism by fire. So now that I'm at motor position adjustment. Up and down has those handy threaded blocks. left and right...not so much. Any tricks or tools that will help with breaking the frozen side to side? I have a 2 foot pry bar and a six foot. Their isn't an obvious super safe place to pry just some "hey it's my best shot" angles. Anybody found any other tools that work nicely? ball joint separator? hydraulic hand tool?
Thanks,

Side to side tools include:     Your old prop shaft and a hammer.
I like the 2.5 lb hammer.