I already put in anti-freeze but did not drain 1st

I know the winterization posts get old and there are lots on this site. but, I have a different twist... my question is I have already ran 5 gallons of antifreeze into the system, the boat was warmed up (I think about 150 degrees on t-stat or so.)

.but I have been reading that maybe I should have drained the block first? I am not opposed to draining everything out of it now and then filling it back up. Is this what I should do?

btw-to fill it I removed the hose that goes to the floor where the water is sucked in when it is running (maybe called raw water pump hose?) stuck it in a bucket of 5 gallons of anti-freeze and let it suck it all in.

that is what I was thinking too...I was going to do it again today, just wanted someone to push me into it....so thanks

Would have, should have....It is no big deal, just a few extra minutes spent doing things I like (messing with boats)...

It was pink RV Marin anti-freeze   -50 rating....I am 100% convinced I am going to drain it and start over. I might as well, I like doing it, and I have time to do it. It also makes me feel like I am getting ready to go boating since I am spending time with the boat. I know....we all have our ways of coping with winter

OK, so I went and pulled 5 drain plugs (as instructed by other posts on this site) 2 on the block, 2 on each manifold end, and 1 on the U shape hose on the front of the engine. It is a good thing I did....
3 of the 5 plugs after I pulled them out shot out clean water....

The manifold plugs had anti-freeze in them and the other plugs did eventually turn to anti-freeze as well, but I am not going to lie to you....there was a lot of clean water coming out of there and every bit of it would have frozen solid.....

So the fact that this has kept me awake the last few nights was for reason.....I needed to just drain the thing and be done with it.

So I am leaving it all drained out. for the winter. I don;t think I will even put anti-freeze back into it.

SNobsessed wrote: Thanks for reporting your results. Many people read these posts so you probably helped 10 lurkers..

Yes JD, thanks.
Chris,
We should log JD's posts for future reference. It will come in handy to quote when other uninformed (no offence JD) just stick a hose in a bucket of antifreeze and expect it to work!

SNobsessed wrote: Pete - I think the suck-in method was invented by the engine rebuilders association.

Looks like a 96.

Thanks for following up with your results... Reinforces exactly why draining is important!

Wow that is a nice looking boat!! I would like to trade up for one just like that. You are going to have a long winter waiting on spring in Montana of all places. I hope someone keeps a lot of warm water posts and video on this site.

I drained my engine, like I do every year, but this year I added antifreeze to the block by pouring through the t-stat housing. As the engine was cold it took a while to fill but did eventually. I then pulled each block plug out to ensure all was well and in both cases some clear water shot out first before seeing the antifreeze!

I was surprised to see this as I always drain the engine at the marina and tow the boat home (6miles, plenty of hills and bumpy roads) with the plugs out to ensure all residual water has been purged. Also, I always probe the holes for crud as well.

Just goes to show you?

D.

Don,
Since you used the more difficult suck up instead of the simple pour in method and didn't drain the J tube, I'd suggest opening up the other drains and take a look just to be safe. Don't worry if you loose some anti since it's really the low points that you are going after. Out of curiosity and if you have the tester, get the freeze protection level you ended up with and post it.

Don,
I've mentioned it several times that all I ever put in an engine is 1 gal. Many try to fill up the engine and all I suggest and do is get the low spots.

Tim D about 4 years ago we had a real solid freeze with snow around January. I know cause with my job temps in that range make it very difficult for us to do things and I remember being at work all day and all nite with a kerosene blast heater keeping the water equipment from freezing.

TIM D ,
I am very familiar with the Columbus county areas ,but here in Sampson county I spent all nite trying to keep the water moving in our facility. When we opened the bay door for around 3 to 4 min the water inside the bay would freeze solid in that short of length of time. not to mention the outside equipment that uses 3 and 4 inch lines froze solid with 1 1/2 inch of foam insulation wrapped around them with heat lamps and heat tape placed on the pipes at different points around the area. at 1:00 AM that nite on my apple I-Phone 4 s. said it was at 9 degrees. TRUST ME I LOOKED! it was nasty cold!!

Chris,
I will admit that the suck up method is only slightly harder but in my opinion not as convenient. The other factor is as you know, I'm very "old school" plus the pour in is by the old school manuals!! With the suck through, you need the bucket, in most cases an extra length of hose and sometimes a coupling to attach the hose depending on where you connect the hose. Then there's the 5 gallons typically needed whereas the pour in only needs 1 gallon. I also like to fog before shutting down the engine for the drain/fill but once again, I'm old school on this one and doesn't apply to EFI engines. Since you remove spark plugs to fog them, fogging can be done after the drain/fill.

BTW, I'm not the only member here that feels the pour in is quicker and easier.