Winterizing

Well its a sad day today. Going out in a few min to start the process. I have new oil and filter, plugs, rv antifreeze, some fuel stabilizer, 3/4 tank of fuel and fogging spray. Also have a new pump impeller to install as mine is toast. Then its off to the storage till spring....

Winterizing is good to do, because it shows you care for the boat. But - it is a sad thing to do. Good bye, summer.

forvicjr:   Why not wait until spring to replace the impeller?   That way the vanes on your new impeller won't potentially take a set during the winter months of storage. It probably doesn't make a lot of difference with a new impeller, but I always wait until spring to replace mine, and if I am re-using the same impeller the next season, I remove it from the raw water pump housing for the same reason.

Blamey: Every boat can be a little different, but on a typical engine there will be a drain plug on either side of the block, on the bottom of the raw water pump (RWP) elbow, and on the back of the exhaust manifolds. If you have a water strainer, you should empty the water from that as well. I usually disconnect the water line from the transmission cooler to the RWP since that is a low spot and doesn't drain.

If you winterize using the bucket method, you don't necessarily need to pre-drain, but I personally would run the engine with water until it is up to temp to ensure the t-stat is open before filling the bucket with marine/RV anti-freeze.

KRoundy wrote: [QUOTE=Blamey] I have a question, that's not clear from what I have been reading about winterizing. If I run anti-freeze through the engine, should I drain all the water first. If not, are there items that should be drained of water?

No, just put in the anti-freeze (if you are using the bucket method). No pre-draining required. You will be replacing water with anti-freeze solution everywhere. Then complete your winterization.[/QUOTE

I feel that it depends on the climate that you live in as well. If there's potential to see temps in the teens or fall below zero for days or weeks on end, there's no way that I would not attempt to drain all of the water first especially if you're using -50 degree antifreeze that has a freeze point that's in the low teens above zero UNdiluted (meaning that what's left in the engine or components is not mixed with any residual water). I personally drain all of the water, tell my wife that we're not going to be able to go out to eat for a week, and then spend $45 on 3 gallons of Starbrite -200 antifreeze. I then dilute and mix the -200 antifreeze 2 parts solution to 1 part water for a -120 burst protection and a -80 freeze protection, and run 4.5 gallons through the engine and other components using the bucket method. I sleep really well during the winter months when the arctic waves roll through.     

DO NOT add antifreeze without draining first!!! The RV is not meant to be diluted. There is NO guarantee that the antifreeze will push all the water out. Per the PCM manual (in the reference section), drain and pour in. It's easier that pumping!! All that I have ever used on any engine is a gallon. It will settle in the low spots.

I did the Mustang yesterday. I drained the block and manifolds and using the bucket method ran 2 gallons in. I then drained it again and got all but 1/2 gallon back. The 95 all I do is drain the block,manifolds,cooler,and strainer,blow out the heater and v drive with air then fill with antifreeze and drain the block and manifolds again.Raw water pump comes off too.

skiermanbrad wrote: You guys that use RV antifreeze, do you mean RV Waterline antifreeze?

Yes. You can get it from any parts chain. Ive seen different brands and colors. Some is pink,purpleand blue. Its a safe antifreeze for camper plumbing,hot tubs pools and the forclosed homes often get it too. Its safe to drop in in spring and just fire your boat and go. No disposal.

If you are storing in a cold climate, why take the chance? Drain everything and put straight RV antifreeze back in. That way in January when the annual cold snap arrives, you're not worried about what you might find in the Spring.

OK. RV antifreeze it is. I live in Texas, so In late November when I put my boat up for the winter (December-February) that's what I'll use.

Strega51 wrote: Either way don't leave the impeller in there for the winter. What is the point.

Dave,
It sounds like you believe the BS about leaving a impeller in for lay up creates flat spots that harm the performance of the RWP. I have NEVER removed an impeller on ANY boat for lay up and have NEVER had a problem. Also I have gone years without changing an impeller.

I think it's a good idea to inspect every year. Changing every year is up to you. I think wether you change it or not I just think it's a good idea to leave it out for the winter. JMO.

8122pbrainard wrote: Strega51 wrote: Either way don't leave the impeller in there for the winter. What is the point. Dave, It sounds like you believe the BS about leaving a impeller in for lay up creates flat spots that harm the performance of the RWP. I have NEVER removed an impeller on ANY boat for lay up and have NEVER had a problem. Also I have gone years without changing an impeller.

Pete, if you leave the impeller in and do the drain and fill with antifreeze method, do you just drop it in and go in the spring, or do you need to do anything to lubricate the impeller? Im guessing the antifreeze level keeps the impeller submerged...so it doesn't get dried out?

Cumby wrote: Pete, if you leave the impeller in and do the drain and fill with antifreeze method, do you just drop it in and go in the spring, or do you need to do anything to lubricate the impeller? Im guessing the antifreeze level keeps the impeller submerged...so it doesn't get dried out?

Glen,
The antifreeze that ends up in the pump lubricates the impeller in spring. Yes, it's just connect the battery and turn the key. I do like to squirt some gas down the carb. BTW, I've mentioned it before that I leave my batteries in the boat but just disconnected.

Just depends how anal you are. I live on a hill & got the bow down hill - got an extra quart of water out.   

Cumby wrote: Hey, ive read some people drive around with the boat on the trailer after they fill with antifreeze. Do you think that is necessary, or OK to just drop the bow some, drain and fill? Thanks

There sure are anal people out there that go way over what's needed! If fully drained, there's no water so there's no need to try and mix it up. Lowering the bow isn't a bad idea since the starboard block drain is forward in the block but, as Chris mentions, it does depend on the angle the boat is sitting on. I lower the bow if it's on a trailer but never if it's hanging in the boat house. Don't forget there is still the drain only method. I did it for years and now just throw in almost a gallon.