OIl/Trans fluid

Hollywood wrote: Because Valvoline doesn't make a multi viscosity VR1 40 weight

I don't think anyone does   

JPASS wrote:     Wait until you ask about which filter to use...................

LMAO!!!!!!

Cumby wrote: Hollywood wrote: Because Valvoline doesn't make a multi viscosity VR1 40 weight you're saying the brand of oil is more important to you than using the manufactured recommended weight? .

That's not what I'm ***************ing saying.

Cumby wrote: Hollywood wrote: Because Valvoline doesn't make a multi viscosity VR1 40 weight So, just to make sure I'm understanding you, you're saying the brand of oil is more important to you than using the manufactured recommended weight? Not trying to be smart,,,really want to understand why you guys use what you do.

Based on my Correct Craft Operating manual, PCM recommends a straight 40W oil for warm weather operations. The main challenge with this is that there are very few straight 40W oils offered. Other than Shell Rotella T1, I've not been able to locate any straight 40W where I live.

I don't mean to be remedial, but the concept of multi viscosity oils is based on cold vs hot operating temperatures. in a 10W-30 multi viscosity oil, the 10W number is the viscosity index of the oil COLD. the 30 number is the equivalent viscosity index of the oil at 100 degrees C (212 F). This is a viscosity index equivalent, as the higher viscosity is achieved by the use of polymer additives.

A straight 40W oil is pretty thick when cold and somewhat resistant to flowing. Many will argue that cold engine start-up produces much of the metal-to-metal wear because the oil has drained into the oil pan and now the oil pump has to pump cold, thick oil to wear surfaces. The lighter weight oils will flow faster, pump easier and, therefore, protect the wear surfaces sooner.

I operate in spring, summer and fall, so my engine will see start-up temperatures well below 60 degrees F. That is why I use a multi viscosity oil (Royal Purple 20W-50).

I don't think that folks simply disregard PCM's oil recommendation. Based on the availability of straight 40W oil, and that there is simply too much evidence that a quality multi viscosity oil will also provide equal engine protection, many owners and mechanics simply don't bother with the straight 40W.

Just my 2¢

JQ

I use VR1 because I can easily source it (by the case on sale, I stock up), they publish their ZDDP levels and it's in the range of the weight I want to use. I would consider using 15w40 if they made it, but they don't, so 20w50 it is. Straight 40 is too heavy in the cold temps.

I don't feel like putting diesel oil with no ZDDP documentation in my gasoline engine so Rotella is out. Castrol GTX Diesel 15w40 used to advertise 1300 zinc and 1100 phos but I see it's no longer anywhere on their product data sheet. Lastly, I'm not a synthetic guy so Mobil1 is out. I have not bothered to look into Amsoil, Royal Purple, Brad Penn, etc. The VR1 is doing the job just fine for now.

Kids in car: "DaaaaaD - are we there yet?"

Dad: "Not until your Mother figures out where the oil filter exit is!"

Kids: "But didn't you see the sign back there?!?"

Quakerstate.

General rule of thumb for changing oil in our boats is 50 hours or just before you winterize it.

Hollywood wrote: *and you wouldn't want 40 hour oil sitting in your engine all winter waiting for the next 10 in spring.

So don't worry so much about the every 3 month argument with VR1 but not a good idea to leave it all winter and then run it?

Hollywood wrote: Where the *************** did you read 3 months for boat engine oil? READ THE MANUAL AND THE POSTS ON THIS FORUM. Are you trying to be this dense? a0128 wrote: Changing your engine oil every 50 hours is recommended. Toertel wrote: Oil and filter every 50 hrs JPASS wrote: I use Mobil 1 15w50 every 50 hours with Mobil 1 filter as well. Nautiquehunter wrote: Mobil 1 15w50 every 50 hours on both. quinner wrote: motor oil change intervals remain every 50hrs Morfoot wrote: General rule of thumb for changing oil in our boats is 50 hours

I think it was some other racing/classic car forums discussing flat tappet oils. Some were saying the VR1 has less/different additives so it breaks down quicker??? I think they were basically saying because its a racing oil and formulated differently it needs to be changed sooner and many of them did. Not arguing that to be the case, just asking. I hope it's a non issue because I certainly dont want to change it more than I need too!

I would be very interested to hear ANY first-hand experience from someone who has had a marine engine failure due to using a non-recommended oil.

For an apples-to-apples comparison, oil related engine failure has to have occurred after consistently using the non-recommended oil but following the recommended oil change intervals.

Based on the response sample size, we can draw some conclusions as to whether much of the "which oil" discussion is based on fact or opinion. Ford vs. Chevy. Democrat vs. Republican.

well somewhere a manufacturer is lying because my truck I bought new I've changed the oil 3x in a hard 173,xxx miles. 50% of that time the low oil light has been on.

Hollywood wrote: Where the *************** did you read 3 months for boat engine oil? READ THE MANUAL AND THE POSTS ON THIS FORUM. Are you trying to be this dense?

The manual was written written 16 years ago and the recommended oil isn't even available!!!! Hence why I came to this forum to get "expert advice" in the first place. There are people out there that are still proponents of changing their oil every 3 months with high performance engines (Fords included). I simply asked a freaking question. Can't seem to do that on this forum without getting a smart a** answer! I came to this forum with limited knowledge, lots of questions and a desire to learn. If that makes me "dense" in your book, I'm sorry I've wasted your time and this isn't the resource I thought it would be. If you don't want to answer questions, regardless of how stupid you think hey are, why are you even a moderator???

Welcome to CorrectCraftFan.com - a robust online community of Correct Craft and Nautique inboard enthusiasts; a place to share knowledge, find helpful resources and meet fellow Correct Craft fan-atics.

sorry for the bashing others have done, not all are like that.

As stated before, oil is always a hot topic, just look at the Harley owner sites.   

I believe any premium grade oil will be just fine.

The guy who is building my engine which is an older one with flat tapet cam said to use Rotella so im using it. This is a guy who has built about every engine known to man and has never had one come back to his shop in over 30yrs.   I do not see need for synthetic since these engines do not run very hot though it can not hurt. I use amsoil synthetic in my 2 Harleys and 1 honda an also use it in my car.   
You may want to go to amsoils web site and look at what they recommend for your boat. Their tech line is also very helpful.   Its expensive stuff but i think worth it in certain applications.   

My Vintage Honda Goldwing (1982) is overhead cam with flat tapets. all the vintage bike guys say use Rotella or Chevron diesel, forget the model number.   Harley says use Harley Oil but if you cant then use Diesel Oil.   (Harley Oil is junk by the way)

a0128 wrote: Changing your engine oil every 50 hours is recommended.

Toertel wrote: Oil and filter every 50 hrs

JPASS wrote: I use Mobil 1 15w50 every 50 hours with Mobil 1 filter as well.

Nautiquehunter wrote: Mobil 1 15w50 every 50 hours on both.

quinner wrote: motor oil change intervals remain every 50hrs

Cumby wrote: How often do you change it? Go by hours or every 3 months?

Morfoot wrote: General rule of thumb for changing oil in our boats is 50 hours