Shaft repacking

The packing is wrapped around the shaft and cut to length. Don't try to measure it. The ends are cut on a diagonal so each wrap overlaps itself. Is the brass ring a spacer that sits on top of the gland nut? Pictures please.

Robert,
Yes, the ring goes between the last wrap of packing and the gland nut. Yup, the first rings of packing are practice!

Robert,
I use MIG SS welding wire but that's because I have rolls of it. Find a small roll of SS wire at the hardware.

OK I either did mine wrong or I disagree with the previous post stating the placement of the large ring. I do not believe it goes next to the bottom ring of packing inside the nut.

I put the large ring (what I call a brass thrust washer) on top of the packing gland nut and below the rudder arm. This is how it was positioned when I took the rudder apart. I also looked at my neighbor's 2002 SN rudder and you can just see the edge of the thrust washer on top of the packing nut.

I looked for pictures on the web but can't find an exploded view , please advise if I am wrong.

Here is what I just did:

I cleaned the old grease from rudder and rudder port. Spread new grease on the rudder shaft except for the area that touches the packing. Gore Tex packing instructions said no grease because it will hinder performance.

Cut 4 pieces of 3/16" packing to match those in my 2002 Ski Nautique. some year models use 1/4" and I think mine is transition year. Wrap around rudder shaft and cut to length.

Put the 4 pieces of GFO packing in the clean gland nut. Staggered the seams. Screwed packing nut two hand tight and then put a wrench on the back up nut and tightened it. Placed large thrust washer on top of packing nut.

Boat is in a lift cradle so I hopped in water. Grabbed the rudder and shoved it up. My wife positioned the rudder arm and the bolts. I tightened it all up and replaced safety wire. Inspected for leaks after lowering it into the lake.

Initially the wheel was very difficult to turn. Spun the wheel back and forth a dozen times to set or initiate the packing. My wife said the helm never turned this easy.

I'll check for leaks and tighten after a couple of days if necessary.

All back together now but the rudder feels anything but solid. Wobbles a little left to right and has play up and down. Where did I go wrong?

rbbordner wrote: All back together now but the rudder feels anything but solid. Wobbles a little left to right and has play up and down. Where did I go wrong?

Tighten the packing gland some more. The play up and down may also indicate you didn't put enough packing in it. Typically this play is removed by a spacer or washers between the gland nut ant tiller arm. Was there one originally?

I pulled out 3 full rings and the remnants of a fourth. Comparison was that my new packing was the same size as the old. 3/16.
I put 3 rings back in. I placed my large washer on top of the packing nut below the tiller arm. I got gland nut to hand tight right now. And tighten the back up nut.
I failed to check for play in the rudder prior to dropping it out.
Lots of respect to everyone who does all there own maintenance. I'm ready to pass off mine to a professional. My little project is taking way too long.

I have a 2002 SN with 700 hrs, my neighbor has a 1994 SN. Rough eyeball and wiggle tests show that both boats have about 1/16" vertical play in the rudder and may 1/32" side to side play of the rudder shaft inside the rudder port.

My boat steers like a dream and the rudder does not leak. Just pulled a skier at very short line lengths yesterday with no issues.

Another neighbor has a 2002 ProStar 190 and it has about 1/32" vertical play and side to side slop.

Maybe I'll check out another friend's SN 200 rudder for comparison as to how much the rudder wiggles on a newer boat.

I am about to repack my rudder on a 2002 SNCB. I've replaced the steering cable, that made steering effort near perfect. However, I do have an odd steering behavior just as the rudder unloads from a right turn to neutral. I'm hoping its the packing.

However..after replacing the steering cable, I noticed the tiller arm was hitting the bottom of the boat in one direction. After monkeying around with it, turns out my thrust shim on top of the packing nut is worn on one side, making the arm decline as it turns to full lock.

My question is regarding the shim, does it need to be there if not necessary for free play (can the arm be directly on the packing nut?. I'm hoping to source some at a hardware store, but in the case I cannot I'm wondering if it can be omitted. Do all boats have a thrust shim(s) there?

Check that the steering cable clamp is properly secured to the hull. Also check that the cable tube is properly clamped by the clamp itself.

Couple more questions.
1. If my rudder does not need the shim/washer to take up slack, is one necessary there as a wear item?
2. Boat is a 2002 Ski Nautique (196). Steering cable attaches to the underside of the rudder/tiller arm. Is this correct? I have seen other nautique pictures where the cable is attached to the top of the rudder/tiller arm. At first I thought because mine was on the underside, this is why the hardware was binding on the hull, but trying it on the top was a significant reduction in steering range.

Thank you.
For sake of getting a head start on finding the washers before heading up to the lake to measure, what is the ID and OD of the washer needed?