Foots/TimBobs New 72 Mustang

Thanks Gary, Summit Racing is just down the street and that's where I ordered the new Carb from. Will wait to order the pump once I receive my $15 in Summit Bucks to get it cheaper. Talked to Pete today and he tossed out that he wouldn't be surprised if the Carb was original and that HM never swapped it over to a marine carb. Hmmmmmmmm

May modify the pump and marinize it myself by adding a nipple and sight tube to the new carb..

On to the next project...... One of the previous owners backed into something hard and did pretty good # on the Starboard Stern corner. They did a half @$$ repair using some JB weld 5 minute epoxy in a tube. then painted over it with some antique white paint. I will say this......Its worked for the most part, and no telling how long its been there but It's been bothering me since I got the boat and was gonna wait til winter to rip it off but just can't. So with a chisel and a hammer I dug out all the epoxy. Did a little presanding but stopped to document the repair and post pics. ....Here we go!    

Yikes Tim. Betcha wish you waited till winter now. Reason #10,001 why it's good to have two boats, Always good to keep a spare...

Just saying I could make the boat look like new , the boat was great when I had it. Change is good but I like it the way it was !! But oh well

I could make a one of a kind. 2016 model !!   Old and new just saying

Oh so that why the G in Gamechanger is highlighted in red. The G stands for Godfather . He's making a brand new mustang that is just like yours Morfoot.

Way to crush a kid's dream dude.

Hollywood wrote: Way to crush a kid's dream dude.

I just coughed up my breakfast from laughing at your post .

Is that where HM ran the line before? Seems like it might be in the way of the valve cover coming off.

looking good timbob. great to see you putting the time to restore her to glory, although it doesn't really come as a surprise.

why do you keep calling "Kim Lime Pie" Kermit?

Hollywood wrote: Is that where HM ran the line before? Seems like it might be in the way of the valve cover coming off.

HM ran a rubber line the same way. It was either there or try and squeeze the routing between the alternator and the engine hoist bracket. Figured fuel that close to electricity wasn't a good idea and kept it away from any moving parts. Shouldn't have to remove the valve cover for anything but if I do then taking 2 mins to remove the fuel line is no big deal.


Thanks Al... Still a work in progress......gelcoat work is proving to be a pain in my arse though.....

Adam.......I guess that's up to the woman I end up staying in a realtionship with....The Current Kim (and yes that is her name ) seems to be a hit with the Lake X crowd and has an open invite to return with or without me so it'll be her call as to if Kim Lime Pie sticks.

Yeah, Pete ....been a little busy since we last talked.

Been awhile since I updated this post as fall/winter is officially here and the boats are getting a much needed rest from a busy summer. With some decent temps here in Georgia I decided to start the task of fixing a few things that needed to be addressed on the 72. First up was pulling the dizzy and sending it to Reid to have his guy O'haul it as the boat had been running like a top after the Badin Mini and just quit for no reason the last time I took it out. The rotor was almost free spinning and one could turn it with two fingers so off it went.

Digging into the wiring harness to trouble shoot the Tach not working I found that a previous owner hacked up the harness plug and spliced a few wires together and just covered it up with electrical tape. Took a few days (and big shout to Gary S for sending me the wiring diagram) but the engine is now "hardwired" with new ends on, replaced a few small sections of wiring, routed and laced together using high temp lacing cord. Will secure it all with proper stainless steel Adel clamps when I get the dizzy back.






The next project was to fix the cracked fiberglass in front of the rudder fitting support structure. The glass was cracked in a couple places and a tap test indicated the glass was disbonded in several places. ( I had previously removed the tank to trouble shoot the fuel gauge issue I've been having and pulled the tank to pull the float level to Ohm check it out and clean up the surface corrosion on everything I could.)
Upon removing said glass the wood glassed in to strengthen the area was soaking wet. the more I ground the more wet wood I found. A quick call to Joe to ask if the wood would dry out now that it had a way to evaporate the decision was made to just yank to whole thing. It was the right thing to do as the entire piece of wood was soaked thru. No rot yet after 44 years but .the plank wasn't sitting flush with the hull which is evident by the black stain in the picture. a puddle of water was underneath it as the hull wasn't even and water was sitting in the gap. Area prepped and ready to go once I get the coosa board to replace it with.

The primary stringers are solid as a rock and was surprised that the drain holes (that aren't glassed or bilge coated) in the primaries aren't rotten. I hit the areas (to remove the black stain/dirt) with a 'tootsie' roll sander and hit solid wood. {:D]   I'll CPES the area and throw on a couple layers of glass to seal it up while I have the area open.








The plan is to move the steering cable clamp aft about 3 inches as the cable is as far in the clamp as it will go and the rudder steers waaaaaaaay more to the right then the left. The wheels full travel is 3 revolutions total so at 1.5 revolutions the rudder should be at center. IT ISN'T!!!! It takes 2 revolutions to get the rudder at center and the arm in the cable block is as far aft as it will go. Moving the clamp aft will fix this issue.

Moving forward with all the needs to be fixed issues on Kermit I started tearing into the web in front of the battery box as it was rotten and starting to cave in. The glass/bilge coat was the only thing holding the wood together and it was sooooooo soft you could easily put your pinky finger through it. Using a diamond cutting blade in the 90' grinder I cut the glass around the perimeter and started the task of removed the mushy wood and yep you guessed it.............WET FOAM. The floor is solid and no rot so I'm going to try and tunnel the foam out. I'm hoping the foam ends soon as I'm running out of reach. The foam is soaked only a third of the way up from the hull so I see that as a good sign. The battery box supports glued to the hull are solid which I'm surprised as I figured they would be mush. I may try and replace the web with a aircraft floor panel which is aluminum honeycomb core bonded between two panels of fiberglass. Tons of the stuff laying around work. If I go that route I'll post pics of what I used in this thread.




One can filled so far and I'm about half way done...... Loads of fun...HIGHLY recommend everyone give this a try!



Just a Foot note ...... I do this composite stuff for a living but yet this is actually kinda fun tearing into the boat and fixin it up. I must be losing it, have been sniffing glue way to long or hanging around you guys too much! Not sure which it it is.........

Yes sir......gotta fix that too but wanna start on the bigger stuff first...got about 4 months to get it all done.

That's a maybe.........

Good call Bruce that's the one. The new trailer has been great. Loading and unloading has been a breeze and it pulls really well. Definitely sits high as compared to the 88. In fact it sits high enough that I had to turn over the drop hitch so that it's raised so the trailer rides a little more close to level when pulling it with the Durango.

Pulled another trashcans worth of foam last night. Cut the floor as I had reached back an arms length and was still pulling out wet foam. The foam musta have been poured way up in the bow as I'm about at an arms length now but the last few inches of foam has been dry at the hull so I will probably stop there......The stringers are still solid even though wet foam has been laying against it for years.. The plan is bond blocks of cpes'd wood to the stringers, and use aircraft floor panel as the removed fiberglass foam floor. Screw it into the blocks of wood bonded to the stringers then seal the seals with a couple of layers of glass. Don't think I'll need to use a bilge coat to cover the fiberglass panel floor as the original vinyl flooring panels will lay on top of that.