Tired Interceptor - Block Cracks Everywhere!

Thanks Pete for your comments - much appreciated!

Before Pic of my Paragon Model 1xe


And the after pic!


Still awaiting the return of my block from being hot tanked. So in the meantime I got busy getting the drive back into order. Pretty horrid mess inside and I'm very pleased that after alot of cleaning, complete disassembly I have what should be a working drive with little more expense than new seals, paint stripper and a fresh coat of paint.

Fotunately, it didn't look so bad. Some wear on clutch discs however evenly worn and a fair amount of adjustment left. I thought early on that new bearings were going to be on the project list but happily after a good bath in my ultrasonic cleaner they run free and have no debris left within to cause rough spots.

Pete if your following I have a question regarding the exhaust manifolds. Mine was completely trashed when I got the boat and very little left to compare to. Could you or anyone else with the 170 Interceptor describe how the cooling circuit works? I know that sounds stupid, however the set up is a little unorthodox.

My question is this, Am I correct in assuming there is a ventury action set up by the where the cooling water enters and bypasses the thermostat housing and exits out to the riser and through the block simultaneously?

Reason being I jumped off a cliff earlier this summer. I had seen through other sources on the web and in a thread somewhere here regarding a Barr replacement. Well I got a boat shop buddy to look into it and he found online they had a replacement (FC- 1) described as a manifold for a Ford comet engine.

Well no one at Barr knew anything about it even though it was listed in their inventory. So I called them directly and talked to a stock guy and he verified they had one but couldn't confirm fitment as he said "I have been here 20 years and never sold one"

So I was on vacation and on the way back to PA from the beach I stopped at Barr in VA. and got them to physically show me it. So as it sits it's set up for starboard exhaust. I noted in pics that the end and header caps were symmetrical and bolted on and on the phone he couldn't advise if they could be swapped. So when I visited I verified they could be reversed to make it a port side exhaust. I then got my friend to get me it at his cost plus a little beer. I then got from ebay in "new" old stock a 15 degree water cooled riser and the adaptor plate to join everything.

It will look close to original, however im going to have to work on the routing of the cooling circuit and it will press my motor further to a "one" off than I had hoped for. I am planning to and can use the original arrangement of the 1/4" cooling line from the rear of the head to the manifold. Im just trying to get it right so the flow works properly through the manifold and block.

Hopefully I can get the results from it I desire and I will put it up in the forum for everyone to check out. The manifold I got was one of four remaining in existance, once they go no more. So if anyone else is experiencing the same hurdles with an exhaust manifold for one of these beasties it may be of help.

This is how our 170 is plumbed. I've never quite understood the water route as the inlet into the block is also the outlet.

Riley wrote: This is how our 170 is plumbed. I've never quite understood the water route as the inlet into the block is also the outlet.

Bruce,
Take a look at the forward end (flywheel end) of the engine. You see that small water line running to the exhaust manifold? It doesn't take much water to cool the engine. More is actually needed to cool the exhaust manifold.

Hey Pete just saw your latest after I posted. I kind of surmised that regarding the 1/4" cooling line and plan on retaining that. My laymans assumptions also were that since the motor is standard rotation and drives off the front of the motor it was a needed feature to also ensure air got out of the head and hot spots were reduced or eliminated.

I don't make it to your neck of the woods, however when I get this project done maybe I can get to a lake near you. Thanks again your help is very generous and much appreciated.

Chris,
Bruce's idea of the in and out for the engine cooling being the same isn't the case. He just missed the small out at the flywheel end of the block.

I including many here run the VR-1 in their engines. I run 20-50 in all of mine.

Regarding the importance of running an oil with the ZDDP in flat tappet engines, I too have seen first hand what happens running synthetics. Cams with barely any lobes left and these too were on flat head Hercules (Chris) engines. Yup, the owners thought they were doing the correct thing to put the Mobile 1 in their engines!!

Pete, there's not enough water that comes out of that tube to cool anything. I've had it off with the engine running.

Riley wrote: Pete, there's not enough water that comes out of that tube to cool anything. I've had it off with the engine running.

How much water does come out?

Glassdog wrote: Sorry guys but fun debating.

No debate. Just telling you what I know from owning the same engine as you. That tube barely drips at idle. Maybe Steve 62Wood will chime in as he's had his engine all apart. Other than general maintenance and replacing all the hoses, we haven't needed to do much to ours.

Please forgive guys, the "fun debate" comment wasn't meant to disrespect anyone's experiences, insights or professional perspective. I probably should have iterated that the discussion has been very very interesting.

I'm very appreciative of everyone taking their time to provide insights, experiences and knowledge. I view all discussions as useful and I can definitely say that all of your input and knowledge of vintage Correct Crafts is helping me to make better decisions, shorten my restoration curve and provide me very valuable knowledge of the the purpose of design.

So, please accept any apologies if necessary your perspectives have been invaluable!!!.

8122pbrainard wrote: Christopher, Steve (wood) had some cooling issues with his 6 and if I remember correctly it came down to a wrong T stat. I'm sure he'll be by and correct me if I'm wrong.

Pete,
now your asking me to go back a "while". I think it was around 6 years ago I was replacing the head, so Green Lake was probably 7 years ago.

I did replace the t.stat with a 160 automotive one at GL that year. From what I remember, I had already replaced the water pump impeller, so the stat was next in line to try. That was not the problem either.

I ended up replacing the entire pump with another one from a donor motor I had around. I think the cover plate on the original pump had minor grooves in it, and I'm guessing it wouldnt prime. I do remember if we could get it out and on plane, it would work.

I since then replaced the stat with a marine 140.

mannnn, I need to get that old girl out of storage this summer. She hasnt been wet since I got the 73.   
.

Glassdog, no problems. We do debate on occasion. I'm surprised those engines aren't easier to find as Ford made so many of them. I really like ours, but if you told me 20 years ago that I would someday own a Correct Craft with an old Falcon 6, I'd have told you that you were crazy.

Ours is the early model 170 with 3 or 4 main bearings. If I were looking for a replacement, I'd be looking for a 7 main, 170 ci. It does sound good when she fires up.   

I thought I read the 170's had been upgraded to 7 in the mid 60's but I maybe wrong as I forget a lot of what I read. Did the 300 six have 7 mains? I had a '94 F150 that was my favorite truck I've ever had. We used our mustang a few years ago for skiing and it pulled pretty well. I've never checked the compression, but it doesn't use any oil.

Still waiting on my block! So good time to paint stuff. Anyhow, I, in the past have not been a fan of Harbor Freight but I bought a 50 lb. portable spot sand blaster the other day. Had a few discounts and on sale so I figured if it didn't work so what. I am amazed at how well it worked. So if any of you guys have any paint removal to etc. - Good low cost item to have.

I have a question for 62 Wood (if viewing). Since you had replied earlier in posts regarding your head swap on your Interceptor. I was wondering if you felt it was worth it? I know gains won't be huge. Although some restriction issues on the intake side are reduced there still remains restriction on the exhaust side.

Do you think your performance improved? If so how?

I had been doing alot or research on the little engine and tweaks to get it to perform a little better. I'm kind of on the fence regarding my head. I have a sound (original) head with 1 -1/2 carb intake hole and and anticipate no major changes should I use that one. the only thing I may do since I have to replace the pushrods is make some spring changes. Going to get sealed power push rods that are a little bit more resilient than stock and will tolerate mild performance enhancements.

Im thinking if I go that route Im going to put early (single) Ford 289 springs in that have ( I think) about a 20 - 30 lb. increased in closed pressure. Just to increase the closure rate of the valves and that's about it.

I have found several remanufactured heads (later production date) to improve performance if I go that route. Just mulling let me know your findings.

Thanks!

Hey thanks for the reply. You kind of confirmed the direction I should go. I came to the same conclusion (expense) that you confirmed. When I was adding up the potential of going to a 200 ci head it appeared pretty expensive.

I know you had posted info before regarding your head swap but I just needed a little more information to weigh it all out. Without any real flow info around its kind of educated guessing based others experiences. So few a few modest mods, little heavier valve springs and probably get .015-.020 knocked off the head and get her going.

I was never expecting neck breaking performance, I figured 35 mph might be a good day for it. Has been a little bit of a challenge but very interesting even though it's not a great motor on water or land. Got my block back today and painted, should get the cam bearings and expansion plugs in tomorrow maybe the crank as well ill post some pics when I get down to it . - Thanks!!