rudder adjustment possible?

Now that I can finally drive my 1988 Barefoot, I noticed it steers fine to port, but not far enough to starboard. Looking at the rudder, it does go way over to the left, but about half as much to the right. My 90 SN has equal left to right turning.
I tried moving the steering cable housing more forward in the clamp. This worked, but created another problem, the cable comes out of the housing so far, it hangs up going back in. The larger diameter part of the cable end gets jammed. The smaller diameter part sticks out about 1 inch when the left/right steering is equal.
Nothing is bent or hard to turn. I just can't see how else to adjust it.
Is this a Barefoot thing? The cable 82-90 is the 17 1/2 foot $300 one, but this doesn't seem to be the problem anyway.
I did notch the support aluminum brace for the removeable floor piece (just aft of the motor box) so the cable could get a better angle at full port turn, and leave the cable about 1/4 inch forward in it's mount, so it's a little more equal, and doesn't jam.
Is there anything else I can do?

Thanks for the reply. I'm pretty sure it's the original cable and support tube, but I'll measure the one on my 90 SN for comparison asap.
Glad to know moving the tube in the clamp is how it's suppose to work.

Zach nailed it... The only way that the symptoms you're describing can happen is if a specialty CC (82-90 long throw) cable is used with a "standard" clamp tube. The cc cable requires a longer clamp tube, about 2" difference IIRC. I posted a picture in our BFN rebuild thread as we put a long throw cable in our 79 and then discovered we needed a special clamp tube. We found one from Don in FL, they aren't available through normal channels AFAIK. No one I spoke to knew what the heck I was talking about!

I'm betting a previous owner changed the cable and forgot to save the old clamp tube- then bought a new standard tube to replace it. Probably had to limit cable travel (by setting unequal travel and allowing the tiller arm to hit the transom before the cable popped out of the tube) to make the boat functional!

I would think you could sister on an extension opposite the threaded side if really needed.

Wow, you guys really know your CCs! That's exactly what it was, long throw cable with short throw support tube. The PO must have had the cable replaced with the wrong support tube. No wonder it still worked so well, my 87 SN cable was stiff as a board when I replaced it as few years ago. Thanks for the heads up.
So I made a 2 inch "sister" connection with aluminum tubing, water hose and hose clamps I had. You can see the mark on the support tube where I moved it 2 inches forward for equal rudder throw. Works great.

cbr1000dude wrote: So I made a 2 inch "sister" connection with aluminum tubing, water hose and hose clamps I had.

TRBenj wrote: I would get that fixed the right way pronto. Likelihood of that joint failing is low but if it does, and the cable falls out the end, then you're essentially stuck at full lock. That would be a serious safety concern, depending on the conditions under which it fails!

NG,
I too suggest getting a proper fix. I agree with Tim that even though chances of failure are low, the consequences could be serious.

Tim is just very against modifying the factory steering equipment.

cbr1000dude wrote: The larger diameter part gets jammed.

spit on it

seacamper wrote: So I am having similar problems on a 75 SN, the rudder deflects about 40 degrees one way and 20ish degrees the other. If the clamp tube was a bit longer, I think I could even out the throw. The problem is I think the cable would then smack the transom. Any ideas?

Tom,
Can you post a picture of the clamp tube and it's mounting. Is there any evidence that the tube mount position has been changed?

8122pbrainard wrote: seacamper wrote: So I am having similar problems on a 75 SN, the rudder deflects about 40 degrees one way and 20ish degrees the other. If the clamp tube was a bit longer, I think I could even out the throw. The problem is I think the cable would then smack the transom. Any ideas? Tom, Can you post a picture of the clamp tube and it's mounting. Is there any evidence that the tube mount position has been changed?

Hey Pete,
I know the cable was replaced recently. The clamp appears to be in the original spot. I can post photo tomorrow. It looks like I need to replace the clamp, because the clamp bracket is broken. I guess I need to make sure they put in the right cable!

OK Guys, Here are some pics:
The tube:
Does this look like the right tube? The cable is teleflex 41331. is that correct??






The cable holder:
It defiantly needs to be replaced. After a cleanup, it looks like there was a reinforcement done to the attach point (probably due to forcing a worn out cable)


Wiring going to the stern:
Yellow is to stern light, red is to gas tank, is the green (which is taped off attached to nothing) to my non existent blower?

Thanks Guys
Tom

He never said the cable hits the transom. That's actually the direction it needs to go, but he just thinks it may end up hitting by the time it the steering gets evened out. The more the tube goes back the more it will limit steering in the other direction, so it's really a "give and take" situation where you really only need to go half as much as you think you need to. Moving the block back will accomplish this. With that "repair" it's possible the block got moved back. It wouldn't take much to screw it up. Most boats of that vintage seem to have the tube really hanging out the back already anyway.



And besides, even if the tiller arm was bent or upside down if it was hitting the transom already it's clearly not going to get adjusted back any further!

This is the setup Hollywood is talking about on mine:

8122pbrainard wrote: Tom, Since the clamp block was broken at one time, it comes to mind that maybe the boat took an underwater hit. Take a look at the tiller arm for any signs of bending. If bent, that would explain why the arm would hit the transom and the reason the cable tube is adjusted all the way aft in the clamp block. Also make sure the tiller arm isn't upside down.

Ding Ding Ding! Winner. I thought it was supposed to have a bend! I heated it up, and tapped and pried it back into shape and its a pretty even throw. I am just guessing it was a 7 to 9 degree bend, and I bent it back to original plus 3 (just to make sure I had the throw, and it is all good. You could make a Budweiser "Real Men of Genius" commercial from this forum.

I'm wondering if it's a metal fuel tank, and the tank itself is grounded somewhere else?