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Newer-style starter solenoid bypass

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Grand Poobah
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    Posted: September-30-2014 at 1:30pm
So the newer starters- mid-90's and up- have an internal solenoid & relay that takes a low-amp current coming off the standard starting relay and handles the high current relay switching action itself. As in the starter has constant + from the battery at all times and takes a switched feed from another relay to kick off its own relay. Naturally we all know this, CCF 101.

The question is that if this built-in relay on the actual starter were to go bad, could you just bypass it by moving the high-amp switching action to the downstream separate starting solenoid, just like they used to work for ages? The starter has two poles with 9/16 nuts on it, I'm assuming the second/lower pole is where the switched high amp feed would go but without an internal diagram of the starter I didn't want to risk trying it.
2000 SN GT40 w/99 Graphics/Gel
2016 SN 200 OB 5.3L DI
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Bri892001 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-30-2014 at 3:59pm
My first thought was that yes, you'd just have to make sure there is heavy gauge wire going from the old style remote solenoid to the right place on the new starter...

But that would likely have been wrong!!!!

I was curious so I started googling around. I think on the newer style starters, that solenoid piggy-backed to the starter, also has a role in engaging the pinion gear to the ring gear. In another words, it's not just a switch, it has a mechanical role as well.

That's what I gather from reading this anyway:
http://joelcd88.blogspot.com/
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-30-2014 at 4:13pm
I'm thinking the same thing. It does control the engagement/telescoping of the pinion gear (when I tried to take it apart sure enough the gear moved counter to the solenoid moving out of the housing) so by bypassing it I'd most likely just get a spinning pinion gear doing nothing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-30-2014 at 5:26pm
The starter motor would spin, but the drive would not be engaged in the flywheel. The integral solenoid serves two jobs, engage the drive into the flywheel, then apply voltage to the motor in that order.
The Ford starter does the same job, but uses armature magmatism to engage the drive..No need for the extra parts ...The oem Autolite,Ford, starter is by all means superior to the after market conversion....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-30-2014 at 6:44pm
Billy is on fire. Sadly they don't make the original big body starters anymore. Luckily I have two that function.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kthackwray Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-01-2014 at 5:32am
OK - at the risk of hijacking you thread - is there a suggested starter motor upgrade from the old separate model to a combined model - for the Ford 351 that is (I have the 1981 SN with reverse rotation )

Part numbers ? Suppliers ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-01-2014 at 10:11am
I got em if you so desire.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-01-2014 at 11:03am
Originally posted by phatsat67 phatsat67 wrote:

Sadly they don't make the original big body starters anymore. .


Yes, the OEM starters are still available. CorrectCraftParts has 2 in stock ready to ship.....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-01-2014 at 11:47am
Those would be the last of the last. The current manufacturers are selling the stock they have left over and moving towards the solenoid on starter style production.

Whoever the manufacturer was quit making the internal armature parts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-01-2014 at 12:26pm
I concur with the good Dr. that the new relay units are not great. I think they are fine on EFI boats like my GT40 where the thing starts in 1/2 crank revolution every single time, rain sleet or snow, but on carbies where there may be more cranking involved I get a lot of clickie-clickie-no-crank situations with anything less than perfect voltage or any extended crank or multiple "get the f*cking boat started now honey, I'm in the water and freezing and it's flooded" starting sessions. Just doesn't seem to be a very tolerant system.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-01-2014 at 12:32pm
Keep in mind moving to the newer style starter is actually a "kit."

Not a big deal, but the kit supplies some heavy gauge wire going from the constant hot big post of the old solenoid to the constant hot post on the newer starter.

Then you run lighter gauge wire (or I guess you could keep it heavy if you want it wouldn't hurt anything) from the switched Big Post on the Old Solenoid to the switched post on the new starter.

As Joel mentioned above, with the newer style, the old solenoid is just switching the current that switches the other switch. In the older style, the old solenoid is switching the current that activates the starter.

Buying it in kit form supplies the correct wiring and instructions. Of course, for Joel, the newer style is OEM, so he just needs the starter itself, not the extra wiring piece.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mark c Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-01-2014 at 2:34pm
Somebody must have replaced my starter on my 87 BFN then because when I pulled the motor I had the positive cable attached directly to the starter terminal, and I couldn't figure out how the starter wasn't running all the time. You have to understand that my wiring has been hacked and rehacked by previous owners so I have no idea what it looked like originally, but it did have the separate ford style starter solenoid on the plate bolted to the rear face of the engine, and a smaller wire (like 16 gauge) did run back down to the starter from that. I just figured that would be something else i would have to straighten out when it went back together, it obviously worked but looks nothing like the standard wiring diagrams.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-01-2014 at 2:52pm
Hi Mark,

Someone familiar with the Big Block setup will have to weigh in on that one. That could have been the standard set-up on yours.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jblocal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-07-2014 at 1:34am
In my opinion the new style starter is way better. Turns my 351 over faster and is much easier to install being smaller and lighter. And mark that's how it's set up on my fishnautique.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-07-2014 at 10:01am
That's generally accepted. Gear reduction starters spin the engine easier and most times faster. Popular in performance world when working with much higher compression ratios and timing advance.
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