prop recommendations

My experience is a new Acme is not much more pennies than repairing a prop.

Orlando76 wrote: My experience is a new Acme is not much more pennies than repairing a prop.

If that's your experience, you better find a new prop shop. I concur with Tim, 2-3x the cost for a new Acme over repaired.

Stock prop on that boat is a 14x16 and would result in numbers similar to what you posted. 13x13 is a 1:1 prop.

You want an acme 422.

I wouldn't "pass" up a deal on a 654 or 470 either.

Check out this link - may be helpful.

http://www.wakemakers.com/nautique-wakeboard-boat-propellers

While yours is not a Sport, the prop recommendations would be valid.

Your Prop is not seated into your shaft. Buy some valve lapping compound, spread a little around on the shaft taper where the prop sits, put a little in the prop also. Mist it with a little water then put the prop on the shaft with no key way in place. Spin it on the shaft while gently moving it forward. Keep doing this for several minutes. Wash off with soap and water. Now install the prop on the shaft with no key way again. You might wipe the shaft with a little WD 40 or a light oil at this point. As you install the prop now and slide it forward it should slip forward and stick in place due to a good fit.
Mark your shaft on the engine side of the prop so you know how far it needs to slide on to fit properly.
You may need a prop puller or a gentle tap with a rubber mallet to pop it off at this point.
Lastly make sure your key way fits the shaft properly, should be no play.
Make sure the key way also fits your prop well.
Install the prop with a key way on the final install. Make sure the prop slides all the way on and matches up to the mark you put on the shaft. If it matches the mark on the shaft you can install the lock nut and cotter key. If it does not match back up to your mark on the shaft you need to find out why. Usually it means the cotter key is not fitting well and you may need to file it for clearance. After you run it with a properly seated prop you will need a good prop puller to get it off each time.
There are good Utube video's showing this procedure and you can even use some Prussian blue to test fit your prop and look for good contact on the shaft.
The taper fit is what locks the prop to the shaft, the key way and nut will fail if the taper fit is not good. Your prop will also run smoother if fit properly.

Your prop is not on correctly in that video.

Your boat and mine are awfully similar. I purchased a 422 and am very pleased with the performance. Great power out of the hole and good top-end speed.

Here's a link from the FAQ:

Proper Prop Installation

Any hardware store (not home improvement store) will have SS pins as will NAPA.

Awesome. I can still see the ramp portion of the key-way on the strut side of the prop. I'm assuming this is normal.

Sounds like you made good progress, it should be quieter and smoother properly seated. I have run your prop, a OJ 14x16 4 blade and recently a 224 Acme 4 blade, with the 310 HP Pro Boss GT40 in our Ski Nautique I like the 224 the best but have not yet tried a 422. The 4 blades seem smoother than the 3 blade and acceleration is better while top speed is similar.

Me too! I'm running a 1442 on my Sport but want to try the 422 after reading Mark's comments on it.

KRoundy wrote: Remember to take your old cotter pin with you to Ace to make sure you purchase the correct size.

way ahead of you, but thanks for the reminder. I always bring the old part, or at least a pic, when hitting the stores for a replacement.

New cotter pin installed. Had to back the nut off a hair, but it's hardly finger tight. Too loose?

I understand that Pete. Just making sure. I also understand the prop will tighten when I put it in the water first time after reinstalling prop.