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ProTec Ignition replacement question

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    Posted: May-07-2014 at 8:51am
I've done some research regarding replacement of the stock Protec ignition with a dizzy system. Ours is leaking at the moment.

I have some questions:

The SkiDim replacement is $549 for a LH rotation and $619 for a RH. I do believe my motor is RH because it has an R in the model number (PLP-PR-R12PT). Is this correct?

I wanted to go with a DUI dizzy and new wires.

If I go the DUI route, do I need the $90 wiring harness?

What do you guys think?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Waterdog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2014 at 9:03am

   The DUI is a 2 wire hook up 1 key power and 2 tach that's it.
It's recommend you open up the plug gap .005 because it's a much
hotter spark. - DUI's are a great up grade.
   
   I installed a SkiDim replacement(a night mare)and a DUI. The DUI
is far better.
- waterdog -

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JPASS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2014 at 9:37am
Originally posted by Waterdog Waterdog wrote:


   The DUI is a 2 wire hook up 1 key power and 2 tach that's it.
It's recommend you open up the plug gap .005 because it's a much
hotter spark. - DUI's are a great up grade.
   
   I installed a SkiDim replacement(a night mare)and a DUI. The DUI
is far better.


So no need for the wiring harness? The DUI is $389 and the new wires are another $100, so about $500 with taxes. It's another $90 if I were to get the wiring harness, but I'm not sure I need it.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote halfnelly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2014 at 9:39am
I did the Skidim conversion on mine. Overall it wasn't bad, but the diagrams they include look like they were drawn on a bar napkin. I would probably go with the DUI if I had to do it again, it'd be cheaper and an upgrade.

Do you have a PCM trans or a BW? If it's a PCM 1.23:1 it's a LH.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JPASS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2014 at 10:27am
Originally posted by halfnelly halfnelly wrote:

Do you have a PCM trans or a BW? If it's a PCM 1.23:1 it's a LH.


It's a PCM 1.23:1

So even though the model number shows an R, it's still a left hand rotation?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2014 at 10:32am
John I believe the PLP (L being the left hand rotation) shows it is a LH engine. Regardless with the 1.23 it is for sure a LH engine if the prop spins right. Dizzy gears are different on the kits that's all.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JPASS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2014 at 10:55am
Originally posted by phatsat67 phatsat67 wrote:

John I believe the PLP (L being the left hand rotation) shows it is a LH engine. Regardless with the 1.23 it is for sure a LH engine if the prop spins right. Dizzy gears are different on the kits that's all.


Good to know Zach. I was looking at the R further down in the model number. So I'm assuming PLP is left and PRP would be right hand rotation.

Do I have to swap out the bottom gear on the new DUI or will it come complete?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2014 at 11:42am
Zach is correct on the rotation- 2nd digit is the indication. PLP = LH

LH = standard rotation, so no need to worry about swapping gears. Thats only a concern for RH rotation folks. I believe Performance Distributors charges extra for the RH gear ($75ish?).

I have not converted a Pro Tec boat, but I dont see why you'd need a new harness. At most, you'll need to extend a few wires from the back of the motor where the ProTec ECU is, to the front where the DUI installs. Tach and power is all it needs though. There will be some unused sensors and switches, but I dont see the harm in leaving all of them connected.

Regarding plug wires, you do NOT need to purchase the DUI Live Wires kit. Theyre very nice, but very pricey at $100+. You can get a stock set of marine wires that will work for less (DUI has "Male" terminals) or you can buy a universal wire kit like the Taylor Spiro Pro's and cut them to length and terminate them yourself.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2014 at 1:53pm
I paid extra for the harness and I wouldn't do it again. You do need to have a very good idea about how the electrical system on the motor is wired Thats a good thing to learn anyway. The only exception I would make is if the goo is all over the connector and wires, that stuff is very difficult to remove.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JPASS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2014 at 3:41pm
Originally posted by TX Foilhead TX Foilhead wrote:

I paid extra for the harness and I wouldn't do it again. You do need to have a very good idea about how the electrical system on the motor is wired Thats a good thing to learn anyway. The only exception I would make is if the goo is all over the connector and wires, that stuff is very difficult to remove.


Good to know. Right now the insulator goo is currently dripping down the sides of the bell housing. I plan on doing this swap soon. Going to have to buy a timing light as well being that I no longer have one.

I was going to buy this one
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dreaming Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2014 at 5:38pm
Originally posted by JPASS JPASS wrote:

Going to have to buy a timing light as well being that I no longer have one.

I was going to buy this one



I have this timing light and have been pretty happy with it I too need to do the Protec conversion at some point also, so when your going through it, please document what you did.   I have the added extra bonus of having the TBI system (now replaced with a 4160), but the wiring rats nest seems more intimidating since there are so many more sensors.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dreaming Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2014 at 5:44pm
on a side thought...   did anyone come up with a definitive answer on the MSD distributor that Eddie was referencing a couple of weeks ago?   that might be an option as well, and it appeared that the cost was stacking up nicely to the skidim/dui options
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2014 at 5:48pm
Joe is running the MSD distributor in his stroker 351w. You do need a Windsor gear to swap on in place of the Cleveland/460 one that it comes with.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Smithfamily Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2014 at 6:17pm
Hey John, I did the conversion when I rebuilt the motor. Was not difficult. The hardest part was shelling out the cash for the system!! I may have a timing light to lend, but they are inexpensive. Oh, and the coil went bad TWICE, changed to the MSD Blaster and no issues since.
Js
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2014 at 6:59pm
You can get the gear from Summit still. It's a Mallory part number. FYI Mallory marine group has been sold to sierra marine. Not sure on the fate of the Mallory stuff at the moment. I couldn't get in direct contact with Sierra. Number rang no longer in service.

9-26825 is the gear part.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JPASS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2014 at 9:18pm
I think I'm going to go with this



And some wires. Leaning more towards red cap and wires. Anyone have a preference in color?



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2014 at 9:26pm
That's interesting Zach, I never had issues with the Mallory stuff until the the ProTec conversion.   I've been enough modules to have bought the kit almost 2 times now and the boat is down 6 mph with the CHI upgrade. I have wondered if there was a change somewhere between the Mallory stuff on the Commander motor and the stuff I have now on the PCM.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2014 at 10:54pm
Originally posted by JPASS JPASS wrote:

Anyone have a preference in color?


Purple!! That color will make it faster!!
Really??    It's your boat get what ever color you like.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JPASS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2014 at 11:08pm
Originally posted by gun-driver gun-driver wrote:

Originally posted by JPASS JPASS wrote:

Anyone have a preference in color?


Purple!! That color will make it faster!!
Really??    It's your boat get what ever color you like.



I always thought it was flame stickers that made it go faster????

Of course I'll get what I like (so far red cap and wires). I just wanted to hear what colors other people preferred.

I'm not sure how I feel about purple
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2014 at 11:29pm
The red would look cool with the red PCM valve covers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Got Tiques Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2014 at 11:34pm
The DUI upgrade in the Blair's Barefoot Banana Boa II distributor cap just happens to be YELLOW. Did spend the $ to get the Live Wires, also yellow. Runs as good as new!! And was a simple install.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-13-2014 at 5:50pm


OK I am going to take a stab at some instructions for using your existing wiring harness. This assumes that the DUI has three wires if it only has two then you can ignore the instructions for the ground wire.

Instructions for using existing Pro Tec wiring harness to connect a DUI distributor:

Basically you will be rerouting the 12Vdc key voltage, the tachometer and ground wires from the existing coil pack connector to the existing trigger plug connector and then connecting those wires to the new DUI distributor. Since the wires going between the EMS connector and the Trigger Plug are no longer needed you can reuse them to keep everything looking clean and contained in the original wiring harness.

Here is a description of the connections at the EMS Connector.

A - Trigger plug (D)   (note that these 4 wires are reversed in the harness A goes to D etc.. you may want to verify this with a DMM set to Ohms before starting in case the diagram is wrong)
B - Trigger plug (C)
C - Trigger plug (B)
D – Trigger plug (A)
E – Tachometer (dash)
F – Oil pressure switch (engine)
G - Ground
H – Knock sensor (engine)
J - No connection
K - No connection
L - No connection
M - Ground
N – No connection
P - 12Vdc from ignition key switch through 12.5 Amp Breaker at point 26 on diagram (dash)

1)     Remove EMS connector from the coil pack
2)     Remove trigger plug from existing Pro Tec trigger unit (distributor)
3)     Cut the wire at the back of the EMS connector going to P (12Vdc from key)
4)     Cut the wire at the back of the EMS connector going to D
5)     Connect the wires from P and D together
6)      Cut the wire at the back of the EMS connector going to E (Tach wire from dash)
7)     Cut the wire at the back of the EMS connector going to C
8)     Connect the wires from E and C together
9)     Cut the wire at the back of the EMS connector going to G (or M, both are Ground)
10)     Cut the wire at the back of the EMS connector going to B
11)     Connect the wires from G and B together
12)     Remove the Pro Tec trigger unit and install the DUI Distributor
13)     Cut the wire at the back of the Trigger Plug going to A
14)     Turn on the key and using a DMM set to measure Volts DC verify that it reads about 12Vdc
15)     Turn off the key
16)     Connect the wire from A to the DUI 12Vdc input wire
17)     Cut the wire at the back of the Trigger Plug going to B
18)     Using a DMM set to Ohms verify this wire goes to the back of the dash Tachometer (should be a low number close to 0.0 Ohms) or just verify it does not go to power or ground
19)     Connect the wire from B to the DUI Tachometer output wire
20)     Cut the wire at the back of the Trigger Plug going to C
21)     Using a DMM set to Ohms verify this wire is connected to Ground (should be close to 0.0 Ohms)
22)     Connect the wire from C to the DUI Ground wire
23)     Cut the last wire from the Trigger Plug and discard the plug and the last wire is not used
24)     The EMS connector can either be cut off or left alone. There is nothing going to the connector that would cause a problem.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JPASS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2014 at 7:51pm
I'm almost ready to pull the trigger on this. When I install the new dizzy, do I need to have the number 1 cylinder on the compression stroke or do I just drop it and I'm good to go?

I'm also assuming standard rotation is left rotation. Is this correct.

Look like I'm going with the DUI and a set of Live Wires. Does anyone know if the live wire set-up is designed to go under the manifolds like the stock Protec ones?

Can't wait to make the swap, Just a little nervous about doing it by myself.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2014 at 8:50pm
If you were replacing a regular distributor, you could see which way the old rotor was facing and do the new one pointing to the same place. I don't know if the Protec unit gives a similar reference point. #1 TDC is your best bet.

On the live wires, you'd have to ask the company about length if no one else weighs in.

Take some pics along the way and In sure you'll get plenty of help here.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JPASS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2014 at 11:03pm
About the same price as the SkiDim replacement with our discount. Not sure if the wires will be the right length? Guy at Summit wasn't sure if they were meant to be routed under the manifolds.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2014 at 12:37am
I would get the dizzy from Performance Dist, cut out the middle guy since they make the cure e custom. You want to build the wires yourself, they won't be a standard length that will work on a car.   

I still want the dizzy/oil pump, check you PM's.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JPASS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2014 at 12:42am
Originally posted by TX Foilhead TX Foilhead wrote:

I would get the dizzy from Performance Dist, cut out the middle guy since they make the cure e custom. You want to build the wires yourself, they won't be a standard length that will work on a car.   

I still want the dizzy/oil pump, check you PM's.


Price is the same from Summit for the dizzy. And free shipping. I've never cut and made my own plug wires. So something like this:





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2014 at 10:34am
You could ask Performance Distributor about live wires for Marine.

Otherwise, TRBenj mentions a particular kit in one of these DUI threads. I'll see if I can find that.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JPASS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2014 at 11:58am
Originally posted by Bri892001 Bri892001 wrote:

You could ask Performance Distributor about live wires for Marine.

Otherwise, TRBenj mentions a particular kit in one of these DUI threads. I'll see if I can find that.



The ones TRBenj recommended are the ones I posted above. I'll probably go with those. Just need to get the crimper tool.

Does anyone have pics of their conversion so I can see how it looks and how the wires were run?

Also should I stick with the 90 degree boots or go with something different? I think my options are: straight, 90 or 135 degree.

I also have a question about timing. Manual states the following:

Static: 10 degrees BTDC
700 RPM: 18 Degrees
3600 RPM: 30 degrees Ford, 26 degrees Ford H/O.

Is the GT40 considered H/O? Mine is the 285 HP model.
Are these the correct timing settings with the conversion?
Do I need to open up the spark plug gap?
Stock plugs are fine I'm assuming. I changed them last year. SHould I use them or get a new set?

Sorry for all the questions, I just want to make sure I have everything covered as I'll be doing this by myself.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2014 at 2:10am
There's a pic of Tim's motor and the wiring routing in the diary of his 90. I'm sure there are other good ones but I know he's running a DUI on that motor:
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1067

Yours is indeed an HO if it's 285hp.

One of the benefits of the DUI is it lets you run a bigger plug gap, which I'd think is a more powerful spark.

I'm not sure if you have to or not, I'd have to let others weigh in on that. You'd probably be leaving some performance on the table if you didn't but I don't know if there's harm leaving it or not.

If it was me and I was removing all the plugs, I'd tend to replace them, but that's totally up to you.
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