ProTec Ignition replacement question

I believe you want to "strip the wire like my previous pic." If you put them over the insulation, it's unlikely it would pierce through with enough bite to get you a good contact.

If you happen to have heat shrink tubing laying around, it wouldn't hurt to put that over the terminal end. Actually, they have a type of insulation that can actually be painted on after as well.

I would strip the wire to less length & have those end tangs crimp down on insulation. I think that is why they are wider.

JPASS wrote: [QUOTE=Bri892001] Do I use the black die in the pic or the one with the colored dots? My guess would be the black die as the die seems to be more rounded and would close those posts tighter around the wire.

Yeah try the black dies. Changing the terminals out is not an option? Are you familiar with Skycraft on Fairbanks? This is about the point I'd go there. I never fully understood those terminals but from my experience I think they're a poor design

Orlando76 wrote: Yeah try the black dies. Changing the terminals out is not an option? Are you familiar with Skycraft on Fairbanks? This is about the point I'd go there. I never fully understood those terminals but from my experience I think they're a poor design

I think we have some terminal ends here at work I can practice on. And yes, I am familiar with Skycraft. Love that place. I could also solder the wire to the terminals for some added strength.

The crimp is definitely designed so that the pair of tangs closest to the blade crimp down on the stripped wire, preferably after being tinned, and that the second set crimp down upon the insulation providing a strain relief for the first set. Its actually a pretty tough connector to do a good job crimping with anything other than a connector specific tool set but every ignition company still seems to send them out.

Do I need to put assembly lube or motor oil on the dizzy cam gear or does it go in dry? Directions don't mention anything about it needed lube.

KRoundy wrote: In your first photo there, what is that small device packed on the red and white cardboard?

It's an inline spark tester.   You can use the spark plug instead if you prefer, but the tester helps lessen the risk of getting shocked

JP - Definitely watching your progress - I'll probably be doing this in the future too

Got the swap done today. Beat the serious rain by about 2 minutes. She was a little tough to start, but once we set the idle timing at 12 she purred like a kitten. I did notice my plugs were very white. I need to adjust the carb to fatten it up. Its a 4010. Not sure which way to turn the mixture screws on the side (in or out).

Still need to clean up a few things (the coil insulation on the bell housing and some wire separators).

I think it came out great. Looks like I have enough room to put the plastic cover back on, but not sure I well.

I ruined the supplied tach and 12V terminal ends, so I used weatherproof ones. Oh well.

I will do the write up shortly. Here are some pics:

Sweet! Looking forward to seeing the write up. Congrats on completing the job. Have you done an on-the-water test yet?

KRoundy wrote: Sweet! Looking forward to seeing the write up. Congrats on completing the job. Have you done an on-the-water test yet?

No water test yet. It started to rain as we finished up. I'll definitely be taking it out next Saturday for a full day of running it. Once timed properly she fired right up. Going from 3000 rpm straight to closed throttle resulted in no rpm dips or stumbles like she used to. She ran nice and smooth.

Gonna fire her up today again and double check everything. In my pic it appears my idle might be at 14 degrees. I need to double check that.

I also want to take some more pics of how I ran the plug wires and to clean up a few things while I'm in there.

Looks great. It's funny that your wife is poking around under the doghouse. I thought the doghouse was the one place where a man is safe from interior design suggestions, LOL.

I wouldn't lose sleep over the spark arrester hose touching a wire.

Nice to see attention to detail.

Can you flip the mesh part of flame arrestor over to make it clear? Hose will probably be short. Even if it touches doubt it would be a problem.

Nice work!
I see a riser gasket replacement in your near future!
You have some leaks there...and you do not want any water leaking to the engine...

If it's it leaking you won't see it wet, you'll see the stains. Clean it up and give it squirt of paint, if it comes back it's still leaking.

JPASS wrote: Pretty straight forward to change right? Just remove the 4 bolts on top of the riser, clean the mating surfaces and reinstall the riser???Looks like the tab on the gasket faces forward on my set-up.

More like remove the two short bolts... break the two long bolts... get the torch out heat the riser... vice grips on the remaining part of the bolt... hope for the bolt to spin free.
Not to hard really.