Forums
NautiqueParts.comNautiqueSkins.com - Correct Craft Upholstery and Part
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - 67 SN Resto/Mod rev. 2
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Register Register  Login Login

67 SN Resto/Mod rev. 2

 Post Reply Post Reply Page    <1 23456 8>
Author
Gary S View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: November-30-2006
Location: Illinois
Status: Offline
Points: 14096
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-12-2015 at 1:46pm
Now you see I just lost the whole comment of my post using a pad
69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport
Back to Top
Gary S View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: November-30-2006
Location: Illinois
Status: Offline
Points: 14096
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-12-2015 at 10:13pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

I suspect but never have confirmed that the spider cracking is caused by the plasticizer leaching out of the gel.


I think this is somewhat true.But I feel there is a little more to it. Gel coat is much like paint in that if put on too thick will crack as it dries. When looking for gel coat tips when I was doing my console I did see references to the gel shrinking over time. My 64 was 24 when I had it,cracks were numerous and deep,in places a dime's width.Many Correct Crafts from this era are simmiler. Jump ahead to today- 80's and early 90's boats should be cracking,but off hand I only know of JPass's,obviously there could be more,but we have not seen them here. Plant conditions were the same,variable temp and humidity depending on the weather and time of year. What I'm thinking is that the gel was put on too thick early on,maybe they were thinking a little is good,more would be even better? It is recommended today that gelcoat should be from .010 to .020 thick. Later 60's they seemed to get better, was it thru trial and error? What input did the gel coat suppliers have? Did the company at the time have dedicated gel coaters? Do they today? Any idea Craig what the thickness of your gel coat was? My 69's hull has one small crack,but the deck has a few,all in areas that would be the lowest when in the mold where gel would pool. This is all guess work on my part from my limited experence,any thoughts or comments from others?
69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport
Back to Top
C-Bass View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Avatar

Joined: November-18-2008
Location: Columbus, IN
Status: Offline
Points: 1248
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-26-2015 at 11:08am
Well the bulk of the grinding is completed. Sorry, forgot to get the pics from the camera, but it's a bare fiberglass boat now. My garage is a complete mess. I bagged up all the dust from the floor and I'm guessing it weighs 30-40 lbs. I didn't keep close tabs on how much time I spent grinding but 25-30 miserable hours is probably close. The setup I used worked pretty well, but still left some minor waviness in the surface.

Now I've got to start fixing cracks, gouges, and start fairing. What is the recommended way to fix cracks in the hull? There are numerous visible cracks that you can't even feel with your fingernail, so should I just apply warm/thinned epoxy and hope it soaks into these cracks and move on. I've thought about a layer of 4oz glass centered right over the chine (where most of the cracks are)? That might be a terrible idea, but 4oz is so thin that I doubt I'd have any trouble blending it to the hull, and I'm thinking it would terminate the cracks. I want to make sure after all this work, these stress cracks don't show their face again.

The prop rash area I had a picture of before was a lot worse than what it looked. I ground through until I hit good glass, but never got there. That spot was bad all the way through the hull. Is thickened epoxy OK or should I be layering (incrementally larger) pieces of glass on that spot.

I've also ordered 5 gallons of neutral gel from USC along with a selection of tints. I plan on using Duratec hi-gloss additive for the last few coats but am open to opinions if anyone has used this or not (I think Gary did on his console).
Craig
67 SN
73 SN
99 Sport
85SN
Back to Top
TRBenj View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: June-29-2005
Location: NWCT
Status: Offline
Points: 21104
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-26-2015 at 11:55am
If the bad glass goes all the way through, I would fix with glass rather than thickened resin. A repair from the top would be a lot easier, if you need to fill any low spots from underneath afterwards, I'd use thickened resin for that.

I believe joe has recommended mat over old glass to ensure the cracks don't come back. Light cloth would be a heck of a lot easier and take less resin, but might give some print through when the gel is sprayed? I think skibum just did thinned resin on his cracked up 87, I wonder how that held up. Sorry I don't have any answers, I'm urious what those who are smarter say, as I've got this project ahead of me too. What did bill L use on his metalflake gel mustang? That gel came out real nice.

Snap some pics when you get a chance!
Back to Top
8122pbrainard View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: September-14-2006
Location: Three Lakes Wi.
Status: Offline
Points: 41040
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-26-2015 at 12:12pm
I like the idea of using a light weight cloth over the whole hull especially is there are lots of cracks. A couple coats of resin after fairing and the proper mil. of gel, it should eliminate any print through.


54 Atom


77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<
Back to Top
JoeinNY View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: October-19-2005
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 5693
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-26-2015 at 12:15pm
IMHO, you will definitely want to glass over any thing that looks like a crack. Because you are going to be gelling this boat when you are done so I would be using a good vinylester resin and skip any thoughts of epoxy for repairs on the outside of the hull. If it’s a lot of cracks you may consider sanding deeper in that area so you can get something a little more substancial than 4oz. Deep wide cracks should be enlarged down to the bottom, taper the area of the grinding so that it is wider at the surface by about 10 to 1. Fill the area in with progressively larger glass patches, so you get a good tapered joint.   You should be expecting to spend a lot of time with fairing compound, and eventually a good primer before you are ready to gel so don’t take any chances on the base glass.
1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
Holeshot Video
Back to Top
C-Bass View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Avatar

Joined: November-18-2008
Location: Columbus, IN
Status: Offline
Points: 1248
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-26-2015 at 2:36pm
Would laying up the glass with vinyl ester and using vinylester to fair and then gel over that be preferred to laying up the glass with epoxy, fairing with epoxy, then a conversion coat with vinylester, then gel?
Craig
67 SN
73 SN
99 Sport
85SN
Back to Top
baitkiller View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Avatar

Joined: October-11-2011
Location: SW Florida
Status: Offline
Points: 1693
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-26-2015 at 3:01pm
Originally posted by C-Bass C-Bass wrote:

Would laying up the glass with vinyl ester and using vinylester to fair and then gel over that be preferred to laying up the glass with epoxy, fairing with epoxy, then a conversion coat with vinylester, then gel?



1000% yes.

From compatibility to pot life the vinylester is what should be used.
As far as glass goes just dishing out the area and going in with a progressive patch of layered 3/4 or 1.5 oz mat will work just fine. Just make sure its not over wet and resin rich.
Jesus was a bare-footer.............
Back to Top
8122pbrainard View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: September-14-2006
Location: Three Lakes Wi.
Status: Offline
Points: 41040
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-26-2015 at 3:08pm
Craig,
Joe's idea of going with vinylester all the way is sound. It saves time and getting two resins. However, on your prop rash area, I'd like to see the basic repair (build up of glass and resin) using epoxy for strength and bonding. Then fill as Tim mentioned and proceed with the vinylester.


54 Atom


77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<
Back to Top
C-Bass View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Avatar

Joined: November-18-2008
Location: Columbus, IN
Status: Offline
Points: 1248
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-01-2015 at 1:59pm
Well I started working with the vinylester for the first time this weekend. Started by grinding out the large cracks and was filling them with VE w/ glass bubbles. After filling the cracks I left it to set up. After about an 1-2 hours I checked and I thought the VE was supposed to cure much quicker than epoxy, but this didn't feel like it was setting up at all. I made sure to mix it exactly at 1% MEKP and the garage was holding 71° so I thought all the variables were under control. I came back this morning and after about 24hrs its still soft to the touch. I'm hoping it will continue to cure, because it's like warm bubblegum right now. I already miss working with the epoxy w/ the pumps. 100% cure every time and no VOC's.

I did some digging and found out this was an issue with SkiBum's bilge. Looks like US Composites recommended a lot more MEKP when using fillers (2-3% instead of 1%)

Originally posted by SkiBum SkiBum wrote:

Thanks for all the support. I believe the smart thing to do would be once this is all finished to put together some sort of summary backed by photos, lists of materials, tools, and tips. The smart guy at US Composites assures me that the remaining vinyl ester resin will eventually "cook off". Have determined that because of the use of fillers and thickener I was supposed to have used as much as 3% catalyst instead of 1%. Next problem was that I was not using the resin with glass but rather as a sort of fairing. That causes the resin to be applied very thin which slows the catalyzing process. Those little tid bits of information will be in my summary.



Sorry but there won't be any real progress for a few more days until the catalyst "cooks off". I cannot apply epoxy resin over unsettled vinyl ester resin.



But thanks for the support.
Craig
67 SN
73 SN
99 Sport
85SN
Back to Top
TRBenj View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: June-29-2005
Location: NWCT
Status: Offline
Points: 21104
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-01-2015 at 2:08pm
I've experienced the same thing with vinyl and poly. Definitely not as straightforward as working with epoxy. Stay patient, it should eventually cure. I've had some may ups take up to a week. Drove me nuts.
Back to Top
C-Bass View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Avatar

Joined: November-18-2008
Location: Columbus, IN
Status: Offline
Points: 1248
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2015 at 11:40pm
It's been a while, but I've still been at it. First a few pics of the hull all ground down to bare glass. I think the lighter shade on the side of the hull is from where the paint/gel was ground off on the inside of the hull allowing more light to pass through.




After the gel was ground off the hull, I starting fixing the cracks in the hull. Any substantial crack was ground out and filled with vinylester resin w/ aerosil cabosil to thicken. Then I laid 4oz cloth all over the bottom of the hull and about 9-12" down the sides of the boat in an effort to terminate these cracks from ever showing their faces through the new gel.

I then started what has been the most frustrating part of this project...fairing. I have been attempting to use VE resin with the USC fairing compound, and this has lead to nothing but a huge pain in the a$$. I was under the assumption that VE resin kicks/cures way faster than epoxy. Maybe my conditions aren't optimal (60-70°F), my mixing ratios aren't correct (tried anywhere from 1% to 3% MEKP, with and without wax), or I just plain suck at using this stuff. The stuff starts to harden within an hour of mixing, but it just never seems to cure right. Using 1% MEKP left me with an uncured surface for about a week, but even after that week, sanding just turned into clogged sandpaper after clogged sandpaper. 2-3% MEKP cured within 16-24 hours, but then left me with the same clogged sandpaper. I added wax to the resin (1.5%) and this seemed to help it cure faster. After cleaning the surface to get rid of the wax, I tried sanding again just to have the same results. If I sand through enough of the soft putty, I eventually get to some solidified resin which sands easier, but I waste so much paper & time getting to that point. Needless to say, I'm over the VE/fairing compound. I am going to try some 3M marine filler, which is a VE based bondo basically from what I can gather. I hope it works better.




Here is what starts happening after just a few passes on the sanding block.



Once I finally got to a point where it started to sand easier I was actually getting to be pretty happy with the results. I still need to fill some more spots and continue sanding, but it's starting to fair out pretty decent. I am using 80 grit on a 24" durablock for the larger flat surfaces and smaller blocks on the contours.




I'm hoping that the 3M filler cures as fast as Bondo and I can probably wrap up the bottom and sides next weekend. I will get this boat on the water this year....
Craig
67 SN
73 SN
99 Sport
85SN
Back to Top
turningpoint84 View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Avatar

Joined: September-11-2008
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Status: Offline
Points: 1467
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote turningpoint84 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2015 at 10:09am
Craig, best of luck to you! Better man than I am. Excited to see this thing looking brand new. I would have jumped on this boat if i didn't have my mustang.
Proud 1968 mustang owner and now
1970 Mustang
Back to Top
8122pbrainard View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: September-14-2006
Location: Three Lakes Wi.
Status: Offline
Points: 41040
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2015 at 10:38am
Originally posted by C-Bass C-Bass wrote:

I laid 4oz cloth all over the bottom of the hull and about 9-12" down the sides of the boat in an effort to terminate these cracks from ever showing their faces through the new gel. I then started what has been the most frustrating part of this project...fairing. I have been attempting to use VE resin with the USC fairing compound, and this has lead to nothing but a huge pain in the a$$. I was under the assumption that VE resin kicks/cures way faster than epoxy.    The stuff starts to harden within an hour of mixing, but it just never seems to cure right. Using 1% MEKP left me with an uncured surface for about a week, but even after that week, sanding just turned into clogged sandpaper after clogged sandpaper. 2-3% MEKP cured within 16-24 hours, but then left me with the same clogged sandpaper. I added wax to the resin (1.5%) and this seemed to help it cure faster. After cleaning the surface to get rid of the wax, I tried sanding again just to have the same results.

Craig,
I feel this is a classic case of where epoxy should have been used (no, I don't expect you to start over! ) for the repair, fairing, the lamination of the cloth and then more fairing with epoxy. Then before the gel the VE conversion coat.

The hull is looking great! Just keep at it and get it in the water.


54 Atom


77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<
Back to Top
Gary S View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: November-30-2006
Location: Illinois
Status: Offline
Points: 14096
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2015 at 11:32am
For some reason this is what happens when you live where you do. I too have thought it was warm enough and have had the same results,but on smaller parts though. That is why I did all mine in the summer,must be a combo of constant temp and humidity. I wonder if it's something to do with the wax rising to the top?
69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport
Back to Top
TRBenj View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: June-29-2005
Location: NWCT
Status: Offline
Points: 21104
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2015 at 12:19pm
I've done my poly/vinyl work in the summer and it still sucks compared to epoxy... Thanks for the reminder Craig, I'll take Pete's Monday morning quarterbacking into account when the time comes to do my 1gen, ha.

Looks like it's really coming along, can't wait to see it. Since you're starting with a blank slate, are you considering a color change or sticking with the light blue? Personally, I'd give some serious thought to going with one of the rarer/brighter colors- like turquoise, orange, etc.
Back to Top
C-Bass View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Avatar

Joined: November-18-2008
Location: Columbus, IN
Status: Offline
Points: 1248
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2015 at 12:32pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Craig,
I feel this is a classic case of where epoxy should have been used (no, I don't expect you to start over! ) for the repair, fairing, the lamination of the cloth and then more fairing with epoxy. Then before the gel the VE conversion coat.

The hull is looking great! Just keep at it and get it in the water.



Just giving you a hard time here Pete...but...

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Craig,
Joe's idea of going with vinylester all the way is sound. It saves time and getting two resins. However, on your prop rash area, I'd like to see the basic repair (build up of glass and resin) using epoxy for strength and bonding. Then fill as Tim mentioned and proceed with the vinylester.




Trust me though, I'm in no way looking to blame this on anyone. I wouldn't have even attempted any of this project without the help of CCFan. There are probably dozens of variables that are making the vinylester the wrong choice for this project, but I felt going into this hull work that the VE route was the way to go. Obviously I'm learning as I go and hopefully others can take some of this knowledge to their future projects.
Craig
67 SN
73 SN
99 Sport
85SN
Back to Top
8122pbrainard View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: September-14-2006
Location: Three Lakes Wi.
Status: Offline
Points: 41040
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2015 at 12:39pm
Originally posted by C-Bass C-Bass wrote:

   Just giving you a hard time here Pete...but...
yes but I didn't know you were going to try to do the job in not the best of temps! Just but the abrasive paper in bulk!


54 Atom


77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<
Back to Top
C-Bass View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Avatar

Joined: November-18-2008
Location: Columbus, IN
Status: Offline
Points: 1248
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2015 at 12:44pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Looks like it's really coming along, can't wait to see it. Since you're starting with a blank slate, are you considering a color change or sticking with the light blue? Personally, I'd give some serious thought to going with one of the rarer/brighter colors- like turquoise, orange, etc.


I had originally planned on trying to duplicate the boat as it left the factory. But as with many aspects of this project, that is subject to change. I have already purchased the tint kit from USC that has all of their colors.

Any examples of those "rarer" colors? I'm a big fan of blue though, especially the darker blue, so if I were to change the color, it'd probably just be to the darker shade of blue.

The other debate was the top deck, whether to go with the hull color or the white/cream.
Craig
67 SN
73 SN
99 Sport
85SN
Back to Top
8122pbrainard View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: September-14-2006
Location: Three Lakes Wi.
Status: Offline
Points: 41040
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2015 at 12:47pm
Craig,
I happen to like that blue.


54 Atom


77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<
Back to Top
TRBenj View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: June-29-2005
Location: NWCT
Status: Offline
Points: 21104
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2015 at 12:48pm
70F in Jan-Feb isn't warm enough Pete? You were expecting warmer?

I suspect my troubles were at least partially due to improper mixing... It can be tough to get a drop or 2 of hardener fully distributed in a batch. Epoxy at 1/3 hardener is a lot easier to get mixed in, and it's a lot more tolerant of variations in mixing (not to mention lower fumes).
Back to Top
C-Bass View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Avatar

Joined: November-18-2008
Location: Columbus, IN
Status: Offline
Points: 1248
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2015 at 12:53pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by C-Bass C-Bass wrote:

   Just giving you a hard time here Pete...but...
yes but I didn't know you were going to try to do the job in not the best of temps! Just but the abrasive paper in bulk!


That very well may be the issue Pete, but if it takes heating the garage up to >70°F and still having to wait just as long as the epoxy to cure to a sandable state, I'll take the epoxy. The $ premium of epoxy could be offset by my lower heating bill .
Craig
67 SN
73 SN
99 Sport
85SN
Back to Top
C-Bass View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Avatar

Joined: November-18-2008
Location: Columbus, IN
Status: Offline
Points: 1248
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2015 at 1:15pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Craig,
I happen to like that blue.


The original blue (pretty oxidized in this awesome picture of Mike)



Craig
67 SN
73 SN
99 Sport
85SN
Back to Top
turningpoint84 View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Avatar

Joined: September-11-2008
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Status: Offline
Points: 1467
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote turningpoint84 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2015 at 1:44pm
The original looks awesome, so does the dark blue, I think if you go dark, i'd definitely go with a Cream/White top, but that's just me, plus on a warm sunny day your right fore-arm/elbow will be much happier not being burnt to hell haha.

Glad to see you're sticking with an original look, not a fan of what some guys have done to these boats lately!! Then again i'm sure Pete hates me for putting a ski platform on my mustang.

What's your plans with the Logo's? Will you try to glass those in or post paint? Not really sure how it was done originally, anyone know? and proper method to bring back?
Proud 1968 mustang owner and now
1970 Mustang
Back to Top
TRBenj View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: June-29-2005
Location: NWCT
Status: Offline
Points: 21104
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2015 at 1:46pm
The light blue is nice but it's one of the more common colors from that time period. More often than not, boats had cream decks. I'd go with one color hull and deck. The diaries and the reference section will have the best info- I'd start there. The '66 brochure has a color wheel.

TP, no graphics on SN's until '72 (just boot stripes). Swim platforms on 60's and early 70's boats are the worst.    

A few boats/colors to look at...

Turquoise:
http://correctcraftfan.com/forsale/details.asp?ID=7247&sort=&pagenum=1

Orange:
http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=196&sort=&pagenum=6
http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=7129&sort=&pagenum=3

Yucatan yellow:
http://correctcraftfan.com/forsale/details.asp?ID=5547&sort=&pagenum=15

(Original?) Light blue:
http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=186&sort=&pagenum=6
Back to Top
C-Bass View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Avatar

Joined: November-18-2008
Location: Columbus, IN
Status: Offline
Points: 1248
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2015 at 2:16pm
In the end, I'll probably go with the light blue hull and deck. I think my boat has/had a little more gray/purple tone to it compared to that picture of Reid's, but pictures can sometimes be deceiving. Regardless, I love that color blue of Reid's and it actually matches really close to the preliminary color I mixed using the tints. I'll have to post a picture of that when I get a chance.
Craig
67 SN
73 SN
99 Sport
85SN
Back to Top
turningpoint84 View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Avatar

Joined: September-11-2008
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Status: Offline
Points: 1467
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote turningpoint84 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2015 at 3:08pm
Hmm, well now the question is will you keep the ski platform on it? haha
Proud 1968 mustang owner and now
1970 Mustang
Back to Top
8122pbrainard View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: September-14-2006
Location: Three Lakes Wi.
Status: Offline
Points: 41040
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2015 at 3:37pm
Originally posted by turningpoint84 turningpoint84 wrote:

Hmm, well now the question is will you keep the ski platform on it?

Besides myself, there are many who do have some "class"!!
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Swim platforms on 60's and early 70's boats are the worst.


54 Atom


77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<
Back to Top
C-Bass View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Avatar

Joined: November-18-2008
Location: Columbus, IN
Status: Offline
Points: 1248
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2015 at 4:02pm
The platform has already been converted to an end table, so safe to say it won't be going back on the SN.
Craig
67 SN
73 SN
99 Sport
85SN
Back to Top
8122pbrainard View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah
Avatar

Joined: September-14-2006
Location: Three Lakes Wi.
Status: Offline
Points: 41040
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2015 at 4:13pm
Originally posted by C-Bass C-Bass wrote:

The platform has already been converted to an end table, so safe to say it won't be going back on the SN.

And yet another with class!!


54 Atom


77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page    <1 23456 8>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Copyright 2024 | Bagley Productions, LLC