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'63 American Skier in Colorado

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Gary S View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-26-2014 at 1:29am
I was told I would but I cannot tell the difference.
69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cbdenco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-23-2014 at 9:47pm
I wish I would've taken more pictures when I got the boat because I can't remember if the strut was like this or not. The cutlass bearing appears to be slipping out of the strut and there are two set screws missing on the side of the strut. It does have play in it when I move the shaft up and down. This doesn't look like any cutlass bearing I see online so, looking for some expert advice from the experts. Thanks again in advance to the boat support group here!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-23-2014 at 10:07pm
That looks like the same type that we pulled out of our '66 Mustang. It was made of some type of composite material and I'm guessing was original. We replaced it with a 4" brass and rubber bearing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ArtCozier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-23-2014 at 11:21pm
We did use the fiber cutless bearings back then. Replace with the currently available nitrile rubber. If the bore in the strut is slightly oversized, coat the inside of the bore as well as the outside of the bearing with a thin coat of silicone sealer such as 4200 before pressing it in. (I would avoid the 5200 in case you ever need to get it out.)

FWIW, I have a brand-new 6-inch Morse cutless on my kitchen counter that someone ordered and never picked up. 50 bucks.

Now for today's marine terminology and spelling lesson. This bearing is generically called a "stave bearing," but is commonly referred to as a CutlEss bearing. This word is actually a registered trademark name of the Duramax Corporation, which makes the bearings. The term stave bearing came from the old days of steamships when there were grooves in the strut into which strips of wood were inserted to carry the shaft. The strips looked a bit like barrel staves, thus the name. The cutless term has sort of become generic, like Xerox copies.    
A cutlAss is a sword or an Oldsmobile!    
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cbdenco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-24-2014 at 12:01am
The knowledge that comes from this site is amazing! Thanks guys! I'll start researching that replacement. Hopefully not too tough of a job. Art, would the cutless you have work in mine?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lewy2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-24-2014 at 8:45am
Originally posted by ArtCozier ArtCozier wrote:

Now for today's marine terminology and spelling lesson. This bearing is generically called a "stave bearing," but is commonly referred to as a CutlEss bearing. This word is actually a registered trademark name of the Duramax Corporation, which makes the bearings. The term stave bearing came from the old days of steamships when there were grooves in the strut into which strips of wood were inserted to carry the shaft. The strips looked a bit like barrel staves, thus the name. The cutless term has sort of become generic, like Xerox copies.    
A cutlAss is a sword or an Oldsmobile!    


Art another big difference between US and Australian marine terminology. We call the cutless a "skeg" downunder.

Aussie Cutless (Skegs)

If you're going through hell, keep going

89 Ski

<a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cbdenco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-24-2014 at 9:50pm
One good thing about having an old boat is that one gets very proficient at taking things apart.
I've once again reached the point where I'm in uncharted waters though.
I would really like to use something like the Strut-Pro to change out the cutless, but its prohibitively expensive so that isn't happening. I thought of making my own and found some plans to follow;
Homemade cutless removal tool
But looking at the shaft packing rubber boot(?probably incorrect term) I am thinking it looks pretty shabby and I am this far in so now might be a good time to update it. So my questions for those who know these waters are;
How do I remove the shaft on this Dearbo Model C?
Once out will I need to go through the alignment procedure(I watched the video on that here that Peter did. Thanks to Peter) at reinstall or since I hopefully don't have to remove the flange to get the shaft out can I just reassemble?
The rest looks like a piece of cake, right?

Seems like a thousand word post, so here's some pictures that tell the story far better than I can.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cbdenco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-24-2014 at 9:52pm
Also the prop key is stuck. Tips and tricks appreciated.
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ArtCozier View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ArtCozier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-24-2014 at 9:56pm
Do you mean that the key is stuck in the keyway but the prop is off, or is the prop on and you can't get it to come off?

If you're trying to remove the prop from the shaft, how are you going about it?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cbdenco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-24-2014 at 10:03pm
Hi Art. Yes the prop is off. Key is stuck in the keyway.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ArtCozier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-24-2014 at 10:16pm
A large pair of diagonal wire cutters.... Some call them wire cutters, some call them dikes. (with an "i," please!) Put the blades against the shaft, grip the end of the key tightly and "pry" upward on the handles. It will ding the key, but you can rub it on a flat file or sandpaper, or better still, buy a new key.
"Art"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cbdenco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-24-2014 at 10:38pm
Boom! Prop key out, worked like a charm, Thanks Art!
Yes I'll get a new one.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ArtCozier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-24-2014 at 11:04pm
Just saw your previous post. You definitely have to either remove the flange from the forward end of the shaft or remove the engine from the boat to get the shaft out. Your choice!

If you want, I can give you some hints on taking the flange off.
"Art"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cbdenco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-24-2014 at 11:28pm
Yes definitely, the more hints the better! I'm wondering if I can leave the flange on the transmission, loosen the two set screws on the shaft, rig up some kind of puller (Slide hammer style) using the prop screw threads. Or is that flange heat pressed on like Peter was talking about in the video. If its going to be a real pain I may try to go the homemade tool route, leaving the shaft in, so I can finish the season and worry about the rest over the winter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ArtCozier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-24-2014 at 11:39pm
OK, but details tomorrow; my today started about 4:30 a.m., and it's past my bedtime! Send me your direct email address, and I'll send you a photo of the slide hammer that I built for pulling shafts. You have to be a bit judicious using in on the Dearbo due to the aluminum case. Some heat will help. Do you have a torch? (and a good fire extinguisher!!)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cbdenco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-25-2014 at 12:03am
Will do thanks Art
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-25-2014 at 1:00am
Art has forgotten 15 times more than I ever knew but if it was me I'd leave the shaft in place. The bearing is half way out now,wiggle it out with a channel loc pliers. Make yourself a puller,I have seen them made out of oak and some threaded rod and pull the new cutless into place. As far as I know pro shops don't pull shafts to change the cutless but the tool they use is expensive
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cbdenco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-25-2014 at 1:37am
Thanks for the input Gary. Yes I think shops use that Strut-Pro tool ($395 ). That idea is probably the best way for now, I will eventually(hopefully this winter) have to pull the engine. My 312 Y-block has the infamous leaky real main.
I do want to see the puller that Art made.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ArtCozier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-25-2014 at 8:20pm
What Gary said about wiggling the bearing out with Channelocks sounds like the best idea. And to put the new one in, you don't really have to make a puller. Lubricate the inside of it with some Vaseline or whatever is handy to help it slide more easily on the shaft. As I mentioned before, coat the outside of the bearing and the inside of the strut barrel with silicone seal or whatever. You might be able to drive the new bearing in using a piece of one-inch I.D. pipe. The end will have to be cut very square in order to not damage the end of the bearing.

Couple of things to watch: Almost all of our struts have two setscrews in the barrel to help retain the bearing. If yours has them, you need to take them out before installing the new bearing. They normally screw into the starboard side of the strut barrel, then they are ground off flush, so the drives might be gone. If you're really lucky, they might have been Allen drive and there will be enough left to get them out. If not,take some fine to medium grit sandpaper and sand the side of the strut barrel. The screws are brass, while the strut is marine bronze, therefore the screws will appear as a spot of different color metal about 1/4" in diameter. Drill a small hole in them and use a screw extractor to get them out, then replace them and grind them off flush.
Use a blunt-ended screw extractor and be careful not to get into the shaft. Some shafts in the older boats are brass.

Next item: It is our practice to make the bearing about 1/2" shorter than the strut barrel and leave a short length at the front of the barrel without the bushing. This helps channel extra water into the bearing to help keep it cool and lubricated, and, more importantly, to flush out sand so that it doesn't abrade the shaft.

I will respond to your email in a like manner. Haven't had time to photo the slide hammer yet.
"Art"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cbdenco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-25-2014 at 9:46pm
Thanks Art, The bearing came right out with the channel locks. I found an old school inboard boat shop in Lakewood. He does mainly drag boat stuff, but he had a fiber bearing in stock for $20! Probably not as good as the Duramax-Cutless, but it fit my budget so I scooped it up today. Just installed it as recommended and was able to use the old bearing and pushed it right in. Both set screws were missing, all I could find was steel ones so picked those up to work until I can get some brass ones from the internet. Did CC use cone head or flat for the set screws? Also picked up a new prop key, nut and cotter pin. I haven't put the prop on yet, but will later tonight. No play in the shaft now
Thanks for the help Art and Gary!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ArtCozier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-25-2014 at 10:42pm
Glad to hear that you got that one solved! Great deal at $20.
The set screws that we use are the type with the little raised circle on the bottoms of them. Stainless ones are more easily available than brass. I know for sure that you can get them at McMaster-Carr. I'd offer to get you a couple of them, but we now buy struts with bearing already installed, so we don't keep them in stock.

Agree on the oil leaker 292/312s. I don't recall them leaking that badly in automotive applications; I think it's the engine angle in the boats that causes it. Most don't leak as much when the engine is running and the PCV is applying a bit of vacuum to the crankcase. Most of the leaking occurs when it's static, probably because the oil level is above the seal. I've had 3 different boats with them in, and they all leaked. You'd think they were made by the British. (Have you ever seen a British-made car that didn't leak oil?)
"Art"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cbdenco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-25-2014 at 11:36pm
Thanks Art! I will go through McMaster-Carr.

Yup thats my situation exactly with the 312. I stuff an old sheet in the bilge when I get home from the lake to soak up the oil.
I've been reading about the newer seal vs the old rope seal. Have you had any experience with it?
It's still worth it even if I can't get the leak fixed. There really is nothing that sounds like it. A fine machine and real head turner when they hear me coming on the lake.
British cars and old Harley Davidsons and Ford Y-blocks.
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