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Brand new 1995 Nautique hull

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peter1234 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter1234 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2015 at 5:44pm
???
former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ArtCozier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2015 at 6:33pm
The strut should be adjusted so that the centerline of the shaft will be exactly in the center of the shaft log. That is to say, the centerline of the barrel of the strut should "aim" at the center of the shaft log. The engine should then be positioned so that the center of the output flange on the transmission should is on that center line and the flange is exactly perpendicular to the shaft centerline.

At the same time, the engine mounts need to be adjusted so that the engine is not in a "bind." That means that the weight of the engine should be evenly distributed among the mount pairs. You don't want it to be like "a table with a short leg."

In the factory we have a neat little laser device that we stick inside the barrel of the strut and when mounting the strut we make sure it is aimed at the center of the shaft log. Sort of like a laser boresight for a firearm.    
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2015 at 7:51pm
Originally posted by MrMcD MrMcD wrote:

good alignment, less vibrations.

Sorry but I feel you are wrong. Bad alignment will cause a binding in the cutlass and not allow the drive assembly to vibrate.


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peter1234 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter1234 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2015 at 8:06pm
i think my question marks said all best   
former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2015 at 8:50pm
Originally posted by ArtCozier ArtCozier wrote:

In the factory we have a neat little laser device that we stick inside the barrel of the strut and when mounting the strut we make sure it is aimed at the center of the shaft log. Sort of like a laser boresight for a firearm.    

Is there a target that's placed in the bore of the log? How big is the laser dot? Just wondering what you aim at and how close you come to the alignment?? I stick a piece of tubing in the strut (no cutlass) sized for it's bore and at the log a bushing. The result is NO guesswork on where the laser dot is. BTW, it's cheaper too and fool proof without the mentioned guesswork!! In the old days, the Meloon's would have appreciated a simple cheap device! What will all those fancy engineers think up next??


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ArtCozier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2015 at 9:05pm
Pete, the laser transmitter is the diameter of the shaft and it is pushed into the cutless bearing before the strut bolts are tightened onto the hull. In the recent boats, there is a flat, vertical "step" in the bottom where the shaft goes through. Its flat side faces the strut and is perpendicular to the centerline of the strut. The "shaft log" is simply a ninety-degree thru-hull fitting.

They mark the center for the hole for the log but they don't cut the hole yet. Then they turn the laser on and aim the strut at the center mark for the log, tightening the strut bolts evenly while holding the strut on aim.

Clear as mud? I wish I could draw you a diagram. Perhaps I can photo the process sometime when I'm in the factory, if you will teach me how to post photos here. Or, you can PM me your email; I can handle putting photos on regular email! Pictures far outdo words when describing this sort of thing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2015 at 9:11pm
It's a laser instead of a tube Pete, what's the big deal? What happens when a forklift runs over your tube??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2015 at 9:32pm
Art,
Thanks for the explanation. I did understand the concept but was just amazed at the expense for something that should be as simple as a tube with a center punch point on the end. Now all that's needed is to make sure the guy with the hole saw is on the mark and can drill straight! I feel the next step for the engineers is to talk with Fanuc about setting up a drill motor on the end of one of their robots. Program in the coordinates, have the fanuc home on the strut and then go for the hole!!

Kevin,
Set up tooling should never be laid on the floor. In most companies it would be grounds for termination. Also what would be the reason to have a fork lift in the area?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2015 at 9:40pm
Tubes roll. Things happen. The world isn't a perfect place.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Toertel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2015 at 9:45pm
Hollywood, be carefull with lasers!
On TV I saw this Goldfinger guy almost cut a guy in half with a laser
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2015 at 10:04pm
Who said an engineer made that laser tool up and not the guys that install the struts? Sounds like a decent method. I get free laser pens in the mail occasionally. Big expense?

That's got to be the nice NWZ out there.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2015 at 10:07pm
Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

I get free laser pens in the mail occasionally. Big expense?



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2015 at 10:20pm
Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:


That's got to be the nice NWZ out there.


Maybe the nicest 94-96 at least
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2015 at 10:28pm
The first inboard shaft log was aligned with a tree branch. Keep it original Pete!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2015 at 10:47pm
Is it like this ?

https://youtu.be/US6_VFTLVE4?t=3m50s

I trimmed the video to start at 3:50, but it's really 4:20 (seriously) where it gets relevant to this discussion.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ArtCozier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2015 at 11:28pm
Yikes, that's what happens when you give a waterskier/wakeboarder a script and turn him loose in the factory! A guy drops an engine into a hull with a hoist, and Mr. Narrator thinks it's already within 0.003". Too much energy drink!   It does "sort of" show the procedure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2015 at 11:35pm
Brian,
Thanks for the video. I have seen it before and always notice when he pulls the "laser alignment tool" out of the cutlass how sloppy a fit it is. It doesn't take much trig to know what slop means at a 18" distance.

Kevin,
A tree branch works too. Before getting a length of tubing, I turned down a length of Ash and then set up my dial indicator to make sure it ran true through it's length.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fanofccfan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2015 at 1:15pm
I am learning lots of new stuff in this thread.......Hollywood has a real name? Kevin? don't ever recall seeing that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JMurph Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2015 at 1:25pm
Kevin is his stage name.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote upsman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2015 at 12:01am
Motor is put in and done. Is there a fitting that goes on the raw water pickup to adapt to the one inch inlet hose.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fanofccfan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2015 at 12:15am
I assume you are referring to the brass pipe fittings and hose barb fittings?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2015 at 12:19am

Most will use a 3/4" elbow and a 3/4" nipple with threads on one end. The 1" hose will go over it.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2015 at 2:36pm
Like this?:

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote upsman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2015 at 9:50pm
Do I need to pipe thread the ID of the water pickup for a fitting like that?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2015 at 9:56pm
In referencing your photos I see only a through hull fitting installed. You will need a bronze elbow and a bronze tail piece. Both will have NPT threads. Please avoid brass and galvanized.
Jesus was a bare-footer.............
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2015 at 10:10pm
Originally posted by upsman upsman wrote:

Do I need to pipe thread the ID of the water pickup for a fitting like that?

No, as long as the NTP is 3/4" and the barb is for 1" you don't thread anything. The picture doesn't look like it's the proper size but:
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


Most will use a 3/4" elbow and a 3/4" nipple with threads on one end. The 1" hose will go over it.

The OD of 3/4" pipe is 1.050" so it fits 1" hose great.

Don't worry about needing the bronze. Brass pipe and fittings are red brass and i have NEVER seen a failure.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2015 at 10:29pm
{quote}
Don't worry about needing the bronze. Brass pipe and fittings are red brass and i have NEVER seen a failure.



Just stop Pete.
I see brass used and fail all the time. You don't know where the boat will end up over time. Put it in sea water and that brass will fail in months. No valve means boat-on-bottom.
It doesn't look like he is trying to save 3 bucks on this rig... dont' go cheap here.
Yesterday I had a client with a 2014 model $700,000 yacht damn near sink and suffer (estimated) $30,000 in damage because some idiot put a brass plug in a bronze pump housing.
Still think brass is OK?
Jesus was a bare-footer.............
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-01-2015 at 12:01am
Originally posted by baitkiller baitkiller wrote:

Still think brass is OK?

I was going to add the stipulation of running in salt but ran out of time. You are correct about the need for bronze in salt.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote upsman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-01-2015 at 12:04am
Can I put 1 1/4" hose over the hull fitting with a clamp?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-01-2015 at 12:21am
Originally posted by upsman upsman wrote:

raw water pickup to adapt to the one inch inlet hose.

Originally posted by upsman upsman wrote:

Can I put 1 1/4" hose

Please measure the hose again.


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